Cleaning Engine Mounting Bolts

[cowboyup3371]

Most of the bolts for my valve cover and side covers are in pretty decent shape and can be reused. Some, I will have to replace and will do so by finding new ones at Ace Hardware. However, the engine mounting bolts are still in pretty good shape but are pretty nasty from oil and road grime. Looking through here didn't give me a lot and my searches online are reflecting procedures more for removing rust rather than just general cleaning. Does anyone have a smart and simple way of cleaning off that grease/grime from the bolts? Is it as easy as simple green, water, and a brush?

 

[Steve]

Does anyone have a smart and simple way of cleaning off that grease/grime from the bolts? Is it as easy as simple green, water, and a brush?

Either that or sneak them into a cycle through the dishwasher. :-\\\

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[Guest]

Either that or sneak them into a cycle through the dishwasher. :-\\\

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oohhhhhhhhh...............that would get me in more trouble than boiling carbs on the stove in Pinesol..on second thought, no it wouldn't. You could always leave them in some Lemon juice for awhile.

 

[wedoo2]

Just my two cents, but when I do my restos, if the bolt is not chrome, then I soak them in kerosene and use a brush on the grinding wheel to shine them up and clean the threads at the same time. This makes them stand out on a dark painted frame.

After seeing a thread here on nickle plating I am going to try that on some bolts in the future. Looks pretty inexpensive and easy.

 

[Agemax]

yep, just wash them in petrol/kerosene with a toothbrush, while having a cigarette,cuz its a boring job!
then whizz them on a wire wheel and they will look like brand new.

personally, i would buy all new stainless steel bolts. nice and shiney and no more rust.

 

[wedoo2]

Agemax I put on SS bolts from the Z1 kit on my 750, but then I saw something about stainless steel and aluminum not getting along. Think that there is anything to that?

 

[Agemax]

Agemax I put on SS bolts from the Z1 kit on my 750, but then I saw something about stainless steel and aluminum not getting along. Think that there is anything to that?

stainless steel is PERFECTLY FINE to use with aluminium as long as you use copper anti seize on the bolts. the engine mount bolts do not actually screw in to any aluminium, the pass through some holes in the crank cases but as long as they have anti seize on it will not cause any problems

 

[motomike]

I soaked mine in my bucket of carb dip for about 24 hrs then rinsed and wiped them down. They came out great. Then I actually painted the bolt heads silver just to make them look good. Better option though would be to hit them with a wire wheel to make them shine.

 

[Paul]

This thread has got me thinking, I have a couple of big jars of molasis in the house that nobody will ever use (though I read that it should be agricultural molasis,) I might try soaking them in there for some time, then throw them in the ultrasonic cleaner next time I'm using it.... will post the resultas as I do it

 

[Agemax]

This thread has got me thinking, I have a couple of big jars of molasis in the house that nobody will ever use (though I read that it should be agricultural molasis,) I might try soaking them in there for some time, then throw them in the ultrasonic cleaner next time I'm using it.... will post the resultas as I do it

just chuck them in the U/S cleaner with some vinegar and water, 1 hour, job done

 

[cowboyup3371]

Thanks guys. I'll chuck them in the carb cleaner when I get over to my friend's house today.

 

[bwringer]

Just to be clear, please don't replace any highly stressed bolts, such as engine mounting bolts, with stainless steel bolts.

My bikes are positively dripping with stainless goodies, but you have to understand that the stuff is relatively brittle. It's very strong, but in order to withstand long-term vibration and high stress you must use the original bolts, or perhaps high-grade (10.9 or 12.9) steel replacements.

On lightly loaded bolts, such as engine case covers, stainless with antisieze is the bee's knees. But stainless is not suitable for highly loaded fasteners.

 

[Agemax]

Just to be clear, please don't replace any highly stressed bolts, such as engine mounting bolts, with stainless steel bolts.

My bikes are positively dripping with stainless goodies, but you have to understand that the stuff is relatively brittle. It's very strong, but in order to withstand long-term vibration and high stress you must use the original bolts, or perhaps high-grade (10.9 or 12.9) steel replacements.

On lightly loaded bolts, such as engine case covers, stainless with antisieze is the bee's knees. But stainless is not suitable for highly loaded fasteners.

i beg to differ with engine bolts.there are 15 bolts holding the engine tightly in the frame. they do not move or vibrate and there is very little stress on them at all.
different when it comes to caliper mounting bolts etc but there is not a problem with engine mounts.
i had this confirmed by a race engineer who was connected with HRC and HARRIS

 

[Paul]

just chuck them in the U/S cleaner with some vinegar and water, 1 hour, job done

OK got any good molasis recipies then

 

[Agemax]

OK got any good molasis recipies then

Molasses can be used as:
The principal ingredient in the distillation of rum
In stouts or Porters
An additive in tobacco smoked in a hookah, shisha, or narghile (found in the brands Mazaya, Al-Fakher, Nakhla, Tangiers and Salloum)
An additive in livestock feeds
An ingredient in fishing groundbait
A source for yeast production.
An iron supplement
The main ingredient in the production of Citric acid

:lol:

 

[Paul]

Hmm OK, I still think I'll try out the molasis rust treatment trick just as an experiment

 

[Agemax]

Hmm OK, I still think I'll try out the molasis rust treatment trick just as an experiment

sure worth a try see how it works out. would like to see the before and after pics. try a few different materials. steel,stainless, ali and maybe a bit of copper or brass if you have any lying about.

 

[eil]

My process is to use simple green and a toothbrush to remove most of the oil/grease, then dump them into a jar of vinegar for 24-48 hours to remove the rust. Works great if you're patient or are waiting for parts to arrive. If you're not patient, the methods above might work better.

 

[Flyboy]

Scott, all good advice, personnaly I would go with kerosene and petrol, and a stiff brush.
A wire wheel on the bench grinder gets them looking like new, but, leaves them no protection, as you are down to bear metal, they will rust in short order if rust is a problem in your area, so you need to coat them, Caswells sells a relatively cheap home plating kit.
Paint will protect the head but not the shaft.................that didn't come out right

 

[GateKeeper]

+1 on the advice given by Flyboy....

if you wire wheel them, you will have to paint them or plate them, coat them, or they will rust....

I have a few of the smaller bolts that I cleaned during my restore and are now rusted, these were not seen so I didn't get stainless steel ones as replacements, but I will be changing them out or painting them....

and you will need to repaint them as soon as you get a wrench on them or a socket as the tools will chip off the paint as soon as you put it on....

just a side note, you can wire wheel the bolts, but ever so lightly just to get the grime off but not to take the protective finish off, use a brass brush, it's much softer than the steel ones....no not the one that looks like brass is it's not it's just coated with some yellow looking crap, but the wire is still steel and it's hard.....

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