• Required reading for all forum users!!!

    Welcome!
    Register to access the full functionality of the GSResources forum. Until you register and activate your account you will not have full forum access, nor will you be able to post or reply to messages.

    A note to new registrants...
    All new forum registrations must be activated via email before you have full access to the forum.

    A Special Note about Email accounts!
    DO NOT SIGN UP USING hotmail, outlook, gmx, sbcglobal, att, bellsouth or email.com. They delete our forum signup emails.

    A note to old forum members...
    I receive numerous requests from people who can no longer log in because their accounts were deleted. As mentioned in the forum FAQ, user accounts are deleted if you haven't logged in for the past 6 months. If you can't log in, then create a new forum account. If you don't get an error message, then check your email account for an activation message. If you get a message stating that the email address is already in use, then your account still exists so follow the instructions in the forum FAQ for resetting your password.

    Have you forgotten your password or have a new email address? Then read the forum FAQ for details on how to reset it.

    Any email requests for "can't log in anymore" problems or "lost my password" problems will be deleted. Read the forum FAQ and follow the instructions there - that's what we have one for...

  • Returning Visitors

    If you are a returning visitor who never received your confirmation email, then odds are your email provider is blockinig emails from our server. The only thing that can be done to get around this is you will have to try creating another forum account using an email address from another domain.

    If you are a returning visitor to the forum and can't log in using your old forum name and password but used to be able to then chances are your account is deleted. Purges of the databases are done regularly. You will have to create a new forum account and you should be all set.

Cleaning up aluminum covers on 82 GS1100

  • Thread starter Thread starter Guest
  • Start date Start date
G

Guest

Guest
I need to repolish one or two engine side covers since they have some corrosion taking place. What is the best way to remove the clear coat finish thta Suzuki installed on them 40 years ago. I hate to do it but I really need to fix two spots that look a little rough. I tired several products I have on hand but nothing seems to dissolve the coating. Just buff it off??
 
Last edited:
Paint remover works just keep an eye on it, it's probably not good to leave on there a long time. That said, it's always worked just fine for me.
 
(after stripping paint)...Sisal Wheel w/black cutting compound. This setup will make short work of the polishing. If the corrosion is really bad, 220 grit sandpaper on a DA can be used first.
 
This stuff is amazing.

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/aircraft-aircraftremover-oz-ear2000/12073054-P

It's rank though. Use outside away from anything you don't want to poison and of course PPE!

Some before and after pics.

https://flic.kr/p/2kW7TPx

It will strip the paint too so I masked off around the Suzuki emblem and sprayed it, then used lacquer thinner to carefully wipe around the letters.

https://flic.kr/p/2mYTEc4

Not as good as other folks around here, but good enough haha.

Oh, a drill and polishing wheel and polishing compound. Do this outside if you can as well as it's messy.

https://flic.kr/p/2kZaBYV
 
Thanks all! I think I will buy all the items listed above and give it a try. I have the buffing compounds, buffing wheels and machine machine. My ultrasound machine cleaned all the parts well but would not remove the clearcoats so I'll try the paint remover and aircraft spray.
 
I removed the paint with course Jewelers rouge, then polished them to a Chrome appearance, using a very light rouge. If I get a spot, a 2 second buff takes it out. I'll never spray paint them again. I've done most of the covers this way, and it looks excellent. :)
 
Wondered for a long time of a way to get a more OEM silver look, for the covers, than polishing? The polishing I've seen and done just don't look anywhere near OEM, looks more like chrome..Yes, looks excellent but not OEM.
 
rphillips said:
Wondered for a long time of a way to get a more OEM silver look, for the covers, than polishing? The polishing I've seen and done just don't look anywhere near OEM, looks more like chrome..Yes, looks excellent but not OEM.
Click to expand...

Like I said, sisal wheel and black cutting compound. It's a coarse grind, that shines, but not mirror like. Using a fluffy wheel and fine grit polish results in a shine that's too bright for guys looking for the OEM look.

P1020637 by nessism, on Flickr
 
I used a range of scotchbrite type pads on a dremel. The finest one gives an ok OEM looking finish. Not as good as others here though!
 
You can wire brush to get the look, but if you had a milling machine to get the wire brush wheel for an O.E.M. look you might be able to pull it off. There's no way for that finish to last though. The clear coat gets water under it, and if you leave it unpainted, it corrodes and looks cr@ppy. ;)
 
I keep telling you guys that if you use a rouge called BLACK MAGIC it will clean and polish to a chrome look in ONE STEP. I can do an entire bike including forks in about 3 hours. Just use paint stripper to get the clear off before buffing. Do whatever way you wish but i read a lot of multi step merthods that just waste time and energy.
 
The rouge I used smooth the covers and polished them to almost chrome. I could have left it duller, but I just "went for it". I don't think it took me anywhere near that long. Many roads to the same place. :)
 
Are you talking about te entire bike in under 3 hours?? Im talking eery cover, sprocket cover and both forks.
 
My forks are black. Just the side covers. I had to do the clutch, so I was able to do it on the bench. No, I'm not Superman, I definitely could not do what you did in 3 hours, 3 days, yeah, not 3 hours though. Next valve adjustment time, I'll do the top cover. Had it glass bead blasted to remove the yucky clear coat. The motor won't be very visible once I get the Lockhart Lowers on it anyways. :)

GS750ES w Lockhart Lowers.jpg
 
Im no superman eiter..lol. BUT i was turned onto the black magic rouge many years ago. Honestly itll eat the clear off too but it prolongs the time a lot. I buy it in 2 pound bars about 2 inches square and 7 or 8 inches long. Its a cut / color rouge meaning it cleans and polishes in one process.

https://caswellplating.com/black-magic-rouge-grade-a.html
 
Last edited:
chuck hahn said:
Im no superman eiter..lol. BUT i was turned onto the black magic rouge many years ago. Honestly itll eat the clear off too but it prolongs the time a lot. I buy it in 2 pound bars about 2 inches square and 7 or 8 inches long.
Click to expand...

What kind of buffing wheel do you use, chuck?
 
I typically just go at it with the black bar and a sisal wheel but some of that Suzuki coating is really thick.I may have to try that yellow wheel. I have tried a similar grey wheel from Caswell but it tends to disintegrate quickly.
 
craz1 said:
I typically just go at it with the black bar and a sisal wheel but some of that Suzuki coating is really thick.I may have to try that yellow wheel. I have tried a similar grey wheel from Caswell but it tends to disintegrate quickly.
Click to expand...

Use paint stripper before the wheel. The clear coat comes off easily.

I'm also a sisal and black bar sort of guy. It makes short work of the polishing. If your polishing motor is really strong, you need to be careful, or this setup will burn the metal and create a depression. It's powerful stuff.
 
I purchased a jet variable speed buffer a while back. Great investment if you do a lot of polishing. You got to keep the part moving to avoid a depression like Nessism is talking about.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top