Clutch cable sticky and makes noise

[Catbus]

Well new problem, as of today I noticed my clutch lever would not slip out smoothly (from fully depressed to relaxed)
It feels like it "jumps" a few times when I release, like it catches and goes out a bit and catches because of friction). It also makes extra almost "squeezing" sounds from the area where it enters the engine. Taking off from stoplights was almost scary and I actually stalled once because of it.

A couple hours ago when I got home I took the cable off from the lever side and liberally lubed the whole cable til it dripped out the transmission side. Unfortunately when I reconnected everything it still does it. I even extra-lubed the exposed cable part that enters the transmission, and still no dice. I really am praying I don't have to take the whole cable off because it's very tricky to get out with the carbs and gas tank in the way, and I just got the bike running good and insurance finally on it.

What do you folks reckon it is?

 

[Guest]

What do you folks reckon it is?

Personally, I reckon it's because you haven't given us the slightest clue what vehicle you are talking about.

We can GUESS that it's a motorcycle, because there are few cables used in cars, and even fewer of them use a "lever".

Why does it matter? Simply because even in the Suzuki GS motorcycles (the focus of this forum), there are several different mechanisms used, each of which has several areas that might cause problems.

Rather than type an encyclopedia to cover them all, it would help if you would just mention what you have.

 

[Catbus]

Yikes! I guess I forgot this round but it's a 1979 GS550E

Personally, I reckon it's because you haven't given us the slightest clue what vehicle you are talking about.

We can GUESS that it's a motorcycle, because there are few cables used in cars, and even fewer of them use a "lever".

Why does it matter? Simply because even in the Suzuki GS motorcycles (the focus of this forum), there are several different mechanisms used, each of which has several areas that might cause problems.

Rather than type an encyclopedia to cover them all, it would help if you would just mention what you have.

 

[hillsy]

Put your bike model in your signature and you wont have to keep telling us

I would say it's a sticky / rusted cable. If they rust inside they will swell and the action becomes erratic. Stock OEM cables are rated as the best by most owners.

It's not that hard to replace - you will need to remove the tank but that's not hard. And possibly the sprocket cover but again its not hard.

Making sure the worm gear is adjusted properly is the hardest bit of the lot.

 

[Catbus]

Thanks! Yeah, removing the tank isn't bad, I just did it a couple days ago to remove the carbs and if the cable decided to be sticky at that time, could have done both at the same time

Put your bike model in your signature and you wont have to keep telling us

I would say it's a sticky / rusted cable. If they rust inside they will swell and the action becomes erratic. Stock OEM cables are rated as the best by most owners.

It's not that hard to replace - you will need to remove the tank but that's not hard. And possibly the sprocket cover but again its not hard.

Making sure the worm gear is adjusted properly is the hardest bit of the lot.

 

[Guest]

Yeah, a 550 is probably my LEAST favorite bike to change a cable on. Once you get the new SUZUKI cable in place, make sure there is plenty of slack in all the adjusters, then start at the helix, or worm gear, at the bottom. Make sure that it is adjusted properly. Next, adjust the bottom end of the cable, where it attaches to the cover. Finally, take up the last bit with the adjuster at the lever.

Motion Pro and others have cables that will work and will feel great WHEN NEW. The problems happen as the cable wears out a bit. The nylon sheath around the cable gets a groove worn into it by the cable, which increases the surface area that the cable is dragging on. Suzuki cables have a tougher nylon that lasts longer. And they don't really cost that much more, so it will cost you less in the long run.

 

[Mr.humbucker]

I have a few 550's and found the same thing. Solved it when I removed the clutch cover, which is simple enough, and loaded the nylon worm gear with some lithium grease. For me that fixed the jerky response I was getting when I released the clutch. Also a new cable will never hurt if the one you have is old.

 

[bwringer]

Don't forget the lever -- if the old lever is the least bit worn, or is one of those shoddy fakes from Motion Pro or whatever, order up a nice new OEM lever and enjoy.

That bike should have feather-light and buttery smooth clutch action.

 

[Catbus]

Thanks for all the help / tips guys


Do I have to drain my oil to change out the cable or grease the worm gear ? If I take the front sprocket cover off?

Yeah, a 550 is probably my LEAST favorite bike to change a cable on. Once you get the new SUZUKI cable in place, make sure there is plenty of slack in all the adjusters, then start at the helix, or worm gear, at the bottom. Make sure that it is adjusted properly. Next, adjust the bottom end of the cable, where it attaches to the cover. Finally, take up the last bit with the adjuster at the lever.

Motion Pro and others have cables that will work and will feel great WHEN NEW. The problems happen as the cable wears out a bit. The nylon sheath around the cable gets a groove worn into it by the cable, which increases the surface area that the cable is dragging on. Suzuki cables have a tougher nylon that lasts longer. And they don't really cost that much more, so it will cost you less in the long run.

 

[Catbus]

Okay, UPDATE!
I took off my sprocket cover and dismantled everything, upon inspection, the cable is in perfect condition and the bushing is as well. I took apart the actuator and soaked everything in a soapy solution and then got all the sprocket grime off with a stiff brush. Lubed everything with motor oil and re-assembled it which was a massive pain to get the sprocket cover back on for some reason.
After everything was hooked up.......... the problem persists.... I am very disappointed as it was a lot of blood, sweat and tears in the hot sun and as a first ever bike owner and never really touched a wrench until about 4 months ago I was feeling proud for a moment.


I figure it has to be the worm gear actuator and the plastic outer casing guide threads that are causing resistance, maybe some grit got in there or something and shredded the threads. Very sad news as now I have to order some random part and dismantle everything YET again when/if it ever arrives.

Has anyone here replaced their clutch actuator?
Maybe if I bought lithium grease and graphite I could pray that would be slick enough to give smooth clutch lever action?

 

[Nessism]

If the clutch basket has grooves worn in it the release could hang up and chatter. Just an idea if you continue to struggle figuring out the problem.

BTW, the clutch cover has a grease nipple for easy service of the helix.

 

[Catbus]

Oh shucks, I hope it doesn't come to that. With my ear close to the engine I can tell it's coming from the left side near the cable, it does sound kind of like plastic rubbing.

Now I know what the obscure brass shiny round thing was on the inside of the cover is ! Thanks!

If the clutch basket has grooves worn in it the release could hang up and chatter. Just an idea if you continue to struggle figuring out the problem.

BTW, the clutch cover has a grease nipple for easy service of the helix.

 

[hannibal]

BTW, the clutch cover has a grease nipple for easy service of the helix.

Really?! Is this on the 750 as well?

 

[Nessism]

See attached

 

[Catbus]

SOLVED!



It was indeed the actuator, I cleaned it once more and sprayed graphite lube on anywhere that moves and then brushed liberal amounts of white grease on the worm gear, as well as a little bit on the pushrod.

Upon assembly the clutch lever is now smoother than it ever felt. It the cable engages with slick as a dog.

Thanks everyone for the help!