• Required reading for all forum users!!!

    Welcome!
    Register to access the full functionality of the GSResources forum. Until you register and activate your account you will not have full forum access, nor will you be able to post or reply to messages.

    A note to new registrants...
    All new forum registrations must be activated via email before you have full access to the forum.

    A Special Note about Email accounts!
    DO NOT SIGN UP USING hotmail, outlook, gmx, sbcglobal, att, bellsouth or email.com. They delete our forum signup emails.

    A note to old forum members...
    I receive numerous requests from people who can no longer log in because their accounts were deleted. As mentioned in the forum FAQ, user accounts are deleted if you haven't logged in for the past 6 months. If you can't log in, then create a new forum account. If you don't get an error message, then check your email account for an activation message. If you get a message stating that the email address is already in use, then your account still exists so follow the instructions in the forum FAQ for resetting your password.

    Have you forgotten your password or have a new email address? Then read the forum FAQ for details on how to reset it.

    Any email requests for "can't log in anymore" problems or "lost my password" problems will be deleted. Read the forum FAQ and follow the instructions there - that's what we have one for...

  • Returning Visitors

    If you are a returning visitor who never received your confirmation email, then odds are your email provider is blockinig emails from our server. The only thing that can be done to get around this is you will have to try creating another forum account using an email address from another domain.

    If you are a returning visitor to the forum and can't log in using your old forum name and password but used to be able to then chances are your account is deleted. Purges of the databases are done regularly. You will have to create a new forum account and you should be all set.

clutch sleeve hub tool

  • Thread starter Thread starter nutsandbolts
  • Start date Start date
N

nutsandbolts

Guest
Hey all,
Anyone know where you can get a clutch sleeve hub tool to hold the hub while removing the nut?
thx
 
Dont need one..a few quick trigger snaps with an air impact and its off. Or an electric drill with the impact feature will do also. I should note that youll need a 1/2 inch chuck to put the extention in the drill for the socket......
 
Last edited:
Dont need one..a few quick trigger snaps with an air impact and its off. Or an electric drill with the impact feature will do also. I should note that youll need a 1/2 inch chuck to put the extention in the drill for the socket......

And for those without a power impact...:confused:
 
Somebody with a welder should make a bunch of the home-made ones and sell them cheap to loyal GSR members.
 
Weld a rod onto an old steel clutch disc...

Made me this using a bicycle chain stay...

IMG_0718.jpg
 
Unless i am not mistaken..theres a few holes in the outer half of the basket that you can put something like an allen wrench thru and lock the inner hub against it..that will also be a good trick to hold it so one can use both hands on a ratchet..
 
Thanks guys,
I'll try the impact as I have one. Just wasn't sure it would work.
I second that idea for someone with a welder making up cheap tools for us GS members. I'd pay $25 for one.
 
This item has not been addressed yet, so here goes:

The way I do it is to put the transmission in the highest gear available, 6th on my bike probably 5th on most other bikes. Lock the back wheel by applying the brake and with a 24mm socket unscrew the large clutch nut.
 
Or if the engine is out of the frame wrap a towel around the inner basket and jam it against the outer and crack the socket with a sharp tap.
 
This item has not been addressed yet, so here goes:

The way I do it is to put the transmission in the highest gear available, 6th on my bike probably 5th on most other bikes. Lock the back wheel by applying the brake and with a 24mm socket unscrew the large clutch nut.

Is this a 2 man task? Do you apply the brake with your foot? I guess since the brake pedal and the clutch cover are on the same side, with a little coordination, 1 man can do it.
 
This item has not been addressed yet, so here goes:

The way I do it is to put the transmission in the highest gear available, 6th on my bike probably 5th on most other bikes. Lock the back wheel by applying the brake and with a 24mm socket unscrew the large clutch nut.

X2

I've also just jammed the wheel with a piece of wood since the brake was off on one bike(obviously not a wire spoke wheel).
 
I wondered about that. Didn't know if it might possibly damage the wheel.

Not really possible on the cast wheels I did it with and how little force it actually is anyway... If I had a helper they could have easily just held the wheel while the nut was cracked loose.
 
Unless i am not mistaken..theres a few holes in the outer half of the basket that you can put something like an allen wrench thru and lock the inner hub against it..that will also be a good trick to hold it so one can use both hands on a ratchet..

I know this is an old thread, but in case anyone else was searching for this info, I used your tip Chuck - put an allen wrench in one of those holes you mentioned and gave my socket a wrench a nice tap with my hammer. the nut came right off.

I don't have a power impact driver so that wasn't an option for me. I tried that towel trick, too, but the basket just kept spinning. The allen wrench worked like a charm.
 
Here is an easier way, get on old steel plate and one old fiber, drill two holes in them and bolt them together. Put it in the basket and it engages the crank to the tranny. Now you can use a ratchet or an impact to do the job.
 
I used a needle vice grips on a steel plate, which I protected with a piece of rag. It worked!
 
I wondered about that. Didn't know if it might possibly damage the wheel.

That's how I tightened the nut. FYI electric impacts are cheap at harbor freight and while not commercial grade by any stretch they work great for anything you'll ever do on a bike or your own car.
 
Back
Top