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Custom Painting Question(s)

  • Thread starter Thread starter Schweisshund
  • Start date Start date
More Paint Info

More Paint Info

Just a couple of additional comments and I'll let it rest. In the days before catalyzed paints became available, lacquer was the product of choice - easy to spray, color sand, polish, repair, etc. lacquer is a simple mixture of solvent, pigments (color), and resin (the glue that holds the pigments together). The toxicity of lacquer-based products is rather minimal and many painters sprayed with no breathing protection. Unfortunately, the solvents used to formulate lacquer (often called VOCs or volatile organic compounds) are quite unkind to our environment. They tend to destroy things like the ozone layer. As far as I know, lacquer-based products are banned from commercial use in most if not all states. Of course you can still pick up the typical "spray bomb" at the local hardware or auto supply store.

Now, with catalyzed paints, the toxicity risk is dramatically greater. Certainly in a high-flow air booth, the majority of fumes are eliminated before the painter has a chance to inhale them. But, the painter will inhale a certain amount, no mattter how efficient the spray booth. We must keep in mind that the effects of these chemicals can be, and usually are, cumulative which means a little this time added to a little the next time the painter works and so on. Probably not a big deal for the hobbyist who is painting a bike tank and a couple of fenders. To the question of determining when a dangerous level is reached - impossible to predict. Each individual will react differently to exposure. I have heard of individuals who had one exposure to isocyantes and at the next exposure experienced an incredibly painful reaction similar to an allergic response. If you're really curious about toxicity, go to a paint manufactuer's website and look for a product MSDS (Material Safety Data Sheet). This will provide a host of toxicity information, but interpretation will be very difficult since all of the tox studies are carried out with animal models. What it does say is that these chemicals are toxic and should be handled with great care.

Yes, I've used a cannister mask when spraying a couple of small items. As long as the cartridges are fresh and the mask fits correctly, the risk is low. When I moved up to a car, I felt the fresh air system was a requirement.

If we have any readers who remember the Union Carbide disaster many years ago in Bohbal India, the chemical that was released into the atmosphere was methyl isocyanate. The same class of chemical that is found in catalyzed paints. Many thousands died and many many more suffered servere neuological damage. Basecoat normally does not contain isocyanates - epoxy-based primers are higher on the risk scale - and finally clears are the worst.

I don't intend to scare anyone with all this mumo-jumbo, but the user at the very least needs to be aware of the risks. It's an individual's decision on how much risk to take.

rickt
 
So what about the "low-tox" Paint Shop series of enamels that Dupli-Color just came out with?
 
I am not familar with this product. If I have a chance over the weekend, I'll try to investigate.

rickt
 
Does this sound right?

Does this sound right?

I have a friend who used to paint automotives professionally. He told me that he would strip off the old paint by sandblasting or aircraft stripper and get to the bare metal. He would then use bondo where needed - sand again. Clean then apply clearcoat first (???) Then he would apply the primer, base coat (4-5 coats) then 2 coats of clear.

Why would he apply clearcoat first? He also said he would use a water supply of some sort (garden hose) and leave it trickling to capture the paint dust that accumulated on the floor.
 
For RickT

For RickT

What would be your recommendation for safety precautions for the garage mechanics?

Examples : What type of mask - brandname? How often should filters be replaced? What type of airflow -Fans?

Even though many who read this may already know certain safety precautions for custom painting - I am a babe in the woods - and others are as well. It would be nice to have a detailed list of safety precautions for this task.

Thanks in advance.
 
I know that the safety precautions vary according to what you're spraying. Enamel, laquer, epoxy-based, etc.

Anyone feel free to answer his question, but I'll up the ante: What specifically do you need to spray Imron? I've sprayed it before with just a charcoal filter, but it was in a really large aircraft hanger.

I've also toyed with the idea of building a small downdraft booth, big enough to spray a motorcycle frame and tins. Could a fresh air system be rigged (I know I'm about to get chewed out for this) by using exterior vents, exhaust fans from a computer case to circulate the air, large ID tubing and a gas mask? You'd basically be breathing the same air that's outside the building, and you could even incorporate an A/C filter for dust.

BTW, I've sprayed a car with enamel using a compressor made out of an old automotive A/C compressor, washing machine motor, and a pressure tank from god knows where. Redneck engineering at it's finest!

Also, a good online source for painting supplies (masks, suits, etc.) would be greatly appreciated.
 
3M sells a nice disposable spray mask that has two filter cartridges. I can't varify but one other person in this thread stated they last for about 8 hours of actual spray time which sounds about right to me. Keep it in the included zip closed pouch between uses.
 
Anyone feel free to answer his question, but I'll up the ante: What specifically do you need to spray Imron? I've sprayed it before with just a charcoal filter, but it was in a really large aircraft hanger.
A friend of mine swore on using Imron, painted at home in his garage using just a charcoal mask, covered his body with long sleeve shirt and pants, sprayed it all the time.
he's still alive and kicking to this day. credentials? Jack Roush's 1969 boss 429, Edsel? Ford's gt40 though it was just a touch-up with a brush (somewhere I've got pictures) lots of pro-stock cars, restos...aara cuda's, drag pack torinos, a few retractable t-birds, shelbys and many many more.
I don't think the hobbyist needs to worry when taking proper precautions.

in answer to your question, a fresh air system would be the way to go.
 
I can understand why he preferred Imron. When I was 12, my dad painted his '63 Ford Falcon van with blue Imron. When I was 13, a welding truck pulled out in front of us and demolished the front end (and my right arm in the process, 27" scar to prove it). My dad threw the van in the back yard because he can't throw anything away, and 18 years later the only rust on that van is where the sheetmetal bent enough to crack the paint.

Ironically, the force of the impact was enough to make the right headlight parallel to the right side of the van, but it didn't break the headlight.
 
Self etching primer is as close to the toyota system that the home guy will get with todays paints.

Schweisshund... The "clear" first is a sealer to prevent the dye in the bondo from bleeding through the primer and creating blotches in the top coat


Painted lots of cars and motorcycles through out the years . Best advice I can give is that most decent size towns have at least one refinish supply center. The counter guys are usually ex-body shop workers and have first hand info on what is needed. I've never been steered wrong by asking the guys that sell automotive paint and supplies for a living what I neededwhen I didn't know what I was up against
 
Never heard of spraying clear first, always used sealer primer myself.

Ironically, I just spent the last hour scratch glazing my sidecovers prior to spraying them with sandable primer.
 
what is scratch glazing? Is there a way to remove paint from plastic parts without blistering the plastic or otherwise damaging it?
 
I've never heard of using clear first and the factory paint systems recommend against such ass-backwards layering.

Go to the PPG website and read the technical manuals. Follow their directions, or Dupont, or HOC if you prefer. If you are painting over an existing base of paint there are some semi-clear sealers that exist but normally it's best to use a two part epoxy primer as the first layer.
 
Scratch glaze is a type of body filler used to fill in small scratches and low spots. It comes in a tube available at most auto parts stores. It's only meant for small imperfections, which is what I had on the side covers.

I've seen paint stripper for plastic bumpers at Wal-Mart, but the only thing I really trust for paint removal on plastic is 320-600 grit sandpaper, used by hand. If the previous paint is adhered properly, you may be able to just scuff it up and primer over it. If it's flaking or peeling off, scrubbing it with a scotchbrite pad or stiff brush will get the loose stuff off, then sand it.
 
I took a quick look at the Dupli-Color 'Paint Shop product.' It's appears to be an acrylic lacquer. As I described in my earlier post, lacquers are not particularly toxic and do not contain isocyanates. You can obtain a very nice finish with lacquer (I would spray several color coats followed by 3-10 coats of clear). The clear can be wet-sanded and polished to a very high gloss.
The main problems with lacquer:
Durability is much worse than with catalyzed paints.
Glycol (Dot 2/3) brake fluid will dissolve the paint.
They probably can be obtained in only a very limited number of colors. (Dupli-Color appears to offer less than 10 colors).

The positives are:
Easy to spray.
No fresh air supply needed.
Dries very quickly so trash in paint is minimal
Easy to sand and polish.
Can be repaired easily.

I would still recommend using a charcoal respirator since introducing organic solvents through the lungs is never a good thing.

rickt
 
what is scratch glazing? Is there a way to remove paint from plastic parts without blistering the plastic or otherwise damaging it?

I repainted the same plastics that you have ('83 550E), and I used my random orbital air sander with 200 grit pads on the plastic portions. When I got all the way through the paint, the pads tended to leave a rough surface on the plastic. I used Rustoleum plastic primer that I found at lowes...a few coast of this with a few sandings in between with about 400 grit paper, and then the basecoat clearcoat. They came out fine, very smooth, and the paint seems very flexible...no problems after 5 months.
 
What would be your recommendation for safety precautions for the garage mechanics?

Examples : What type of mask - brandname? How often should filters be replaced? What type of airflow -Fans?

Even though many who read this may already know certain safety precautions for custom painting - I am a babe in the woods - and others are as well. It would be nice to have a detailed list of safety precautions for this task.

Thanks in advance.

For the occasional painter who does not wish to invest in a fresh air system, both 3M and AOSafety(AEARO Company) sell cartridge-type respirators that are NIOSH approved. Just be sure to purchase the cartridges for organic vapors as there are several other cartridge types available that will not offer proper protection.

The cartridges are not terribly expensive so I would tend to change them every time I spray. Spraying is best done with active ventilation - I use three floor-type house fans at the edge of the garage door to pull the vapors out of the garage. I always try to spray when neighbors and pets are not nearby.

The most painful problem with catalyzed paints is the drying time. Any junk that is floating around in the air (insects, dust particles, etc.) will find its way into the freshly sprayed paint. Most clears and solid color single-stage paints can be wet-sanded and polished after drying and this will eliminate the majority of "junk" in the paint. This is not possible with enamels where you get what is sprayed.

Hope this helps.
rickt
 
Never heard of spraying clear first, always used sealer primer myself.

Ironically, I just spent the last hour scratch glazing my sidecovers prior to spraying them with sandable primer.


I can't imagine any reason for spraying clear first. The purpose of a primer or primer surfacer is to bond strongly to the metal or existing paint and provide a foundation for subsequent color/clear coats. All modern catalyzed primers and primer/surfacers will seal the surface against anything underneath bleeding through. Most professionals tend to apply a good primer first, then filler, then a second coat of pimer or primer/surfacer.

rickt
 
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