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Cylinder hone curiosity.

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Guest

Guest
I've seen more than a few posts recommending a bottle brush hone. What advantage does that have over the stone hone? I would think you'd get a straighter wall with stones.
 
My thoughts, exactly, but I am not one of the professional builders that is suggesting the bottle hone. :-k

In my shop, I have straight stones, not a bottle hone. The few engines I have done have had no problems.

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With use the cylinder walls will wear and out of round and taper will develop. As long as the out or round and taper are less than .001" it won't cause any significant issues though.

A bottle brush hone will adapt to this out of round and taper and provide a uniform honing pattern in the cylinder so the new rings will break in uniformly. A straight hone may skip over some of the low spots in the cylinder wall whereas the bottle brush hone won't. A professional grade straight hone will remove some of the out of round and taper but not those auto parts store type straight hones. And as the stones on that type of hone wear they will become less effective, whereas wear on the bottle brush hone won't effect anything.

The only advantage those cheap spring loaded straight hones hold is they adapt to a greater range of bore sizes.
 
I agree with you on the cheap auto parts store hones. You get what you pay for.
I do like the range of stone hones and I've always used them on autos and Briggs and ATV's without problems. Unless you need to go greater than just breaking glaze.
I do use the bottle brush at work for polishing bores that are a little under size but nothing as critical as an engine bore.

Thanks Ed, I was just wondering.
 
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