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Do all GS forks have the recessed hex head in the damper rods?

  • Thread starter Thread starter GelandeStrasse
  • Start date Start date
G

GelandeStrasse

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My damper rod bolts are stuck fast! How can I stop the rod spinning in place? On my last GS it had a hex head recess in the damper rod which made things simple - make tool, insert, undo. This one does not, as far as I can tell(?), have the same setup and I can't prevent the rod from spinning!
Any ideas?
TIA :)
 
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Bump :)
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I have searched in vain but cannot find a definitive answer.
Do all 1100 fork damper rods have hex head recess to enable removal?
 
If they are the same as my 1983 GS1100G which I dismantled this afternoon, then the damper rods will have a recessed hex head. I found that I could use a couple of extensions from my socket set with a 19mm or 3/4 inch square socket on the end. It doesn't (in my limited experience) require much force to undo. Might require a bit more to do up.

If you haven't got the appropriate socket you could try the wooden broom handle trick. You might need to shave the broom handle down to about 20mm and put a chamfer on it say down to 15mm in the last 20mm of the handle. This should grab it.

Greetings
 
londonboards said:
If they are the same as my 1983 GS1100G which I dismantled this afternoon, then the damper rods will have a recessed hex head. I found that I could use a couple of extensions from my socket set with a 19mm or 3/4 inch square socket on the end. It doesn't (in my limited experience) require much force to undo. Might require a bit more to do up.

If you haven't got the appropriate socket you could try the wooden broom handle trick. You might need to shave the broom handle down to about 20mm and put a chamfer on it say down to 15mm in the last 20mm of the handle. This should grab it.

Greetings
Click to expand...
Thanks for the info :) I'll try that
 
All of those work but another option is to leave your fork together (damper rod, spring, and cap tightened) and use an impact driver or a drill with a hex head socket attachment to loosen it. The tightened cap will provide enough resistance to hold it in place while the drill breaks it free.

At least it worked for mine.
 
Mine did not have the hex head. I used a wooden dowel with the end tapered, and gently tapped it with a hammer (broom-stick method). It worked fine, but if the bolt it stubborn, I suppose it might be a bit more challenging.
 
A good impact wrench is the way to go. Usually breaks the bolt free toot swuite.
 
Some don't have the hex and you have to use a broomstick.... Impact (even an electric one) will do it in combination with that...
 
OK, thanks for the info guys. Looks like I have task ahead of me then, I have used the broom stick method + impact driver butt no joy yet. I think I need more heat!
 
Last resort on these is to drill the head off the allen bolt. If you end up doing that the forks come to bits easily and there is plenty of thread left to grab with pliers; the remaining part of the bolt is never tight and will unscrew easily.
 
The GK damper rod has a hex (actually, a 12 point recess), but it's bigger than the 19mm found on other models -- the GK has 41mm forks.

I don't remember exactly what size this is... I found some nuts at the hardware store that fit 1/2" threaded rod but were larger than the usual 3/4".
 
If it's the same as the late 80's GSXR 41mm forks I found something in the plumbing section I could cut & mount on a threaded rod.... Can send a picture if necessary. :)
 
bwringer said:
The GK damper rod has a hex (actually, a 12 point recess), but it's bigger than the 19mm found on other models -- the GK has 41mm forks.

I don't remember exactly what size this is... I found some nuts at the hardware store that fit 1/2" threaded rod but were larger than the usual 3/4".
Click to expand...
Oh, that sounds promising! Thanks! Maybe I'll succeed yet :dancing:
I'll buy a selection of bolts then and see if I can get a good fit in the recess. Last time on the 1000 I simply got a bolt and two nuts, locked the nuts together on the bolt thread, eh voila, instant 'stop rod spinning removal tool'.
When I've found the correct size bolt I'll post here for reference :)

salty_monk said:
If it's the same as the late 80's GSXR 41mm forks I found something in the plumbing section I could cut & mount on a threaded rod.... Can send a picture if necessary. :)
Click to expand...
Thanks, pics would be sweet and are always helpful :)
 
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