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Anonymous
Guest
Here we go.
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Planecrazy
Guest
Nice job on the hitch!
After seeing the trailer, I wonder if the wobble problem isn't due to the trailer being improperly balanced. It looks as if the majority of the weight (especially when packed) is to the rear of the axle, which could cause the tongue to exert an upward force on the bike and cause instability. You'll notice that on cars and trucks the recommended tongue weight is generally in the 200 pound range. On a bike I'd guess that if you have anything less than 50 pounds at the tongue you might have difficulties with handling. Obviously you'll want to check with a pro to find out what is considered the "norm" for a bike trailer, but the picture suggests a trailer that is too light up front, even when packed.
Good Luck,
Steve 8)
After seeing the trailer, I wonder if the wobble problem isn't due to the trailer being improperly balanced. It looks as if the majority of the weight (especially when packed) is to the rear of the axle, which could cause the tongue to exert an upward force on the bike and cause instability. You'll notice that on cars and trucks the recommended tongue weight is generally in the 200 pound range. On a bike I'd guess that if you have anything less than 50 pounds at the tongue you might have difficulties with handling. Obviously you'll want to check with a pro to find out what is considered the "norm" for a bike trailer, but the picture suggests a trailer that is too light up front, even when packed.
Good Luck,
Steve 8)
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lberkhei
Guest
The unofficial "rule of thumb" is that the tongue weight should be ~10% of the total trailer weight; so for a typical light trailer, 2000 lb. gross rating, the recommended tongue weight for the loaded trailer is 200 lbs.
I agree, from the pictures, it looks like the trailer axle is a bit further forward than it ought to be. With careful loading (heavier items nearer the front, as necessary to get the 10% tongue weight, and secure from sliding rearward) you will probably find it works pretty well.
Nice workmanship!
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Anonymous
Guest
Yeah, the first thing I noticed when completed was that I made the box too long. When empty the trailer has a neutral tongue weight. My plan is to put the spare tire and my tools in the very front and sleeping bags and pillows at the back. Unfortunately winter is coming and I have too many other projects to complete so the trailer won't be used this year.
Steve
Steve
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Anonymous
Guest
As usual my plans are never final. The strap steel that goes to the blinker mounts are either going to be dropped altogether or modified to attach to the upper spring mounts. I will be making a flatdeck for the trailer and attaching the lights to the tops of the fenders. The relocated straps will make it easier to remove the hitch and the flatdeck will reduce the weight of the trailer and hopefully make it handle better. I only used the trailer once and I did not like how it handled. If that doesn't work the trailer will only used behind my car.
Cheers, Steve
Cheers, Steve
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Anonymous
Guest
Steve - On another note: Are those PS rear shocks? Do you run the light or heavy springs? Would you choose a different spring if you could do it again? Just how beefy are you, anyway? I have the new shocks waiting while I choose which springs to buy. I weight 205lbs and rarely carry a passenger. Thanks, Al.
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sv650
Guest
Steve,
Be careful with tail light placement. They likely have to be within a certain distance of the rear of the trailer, so as to be visible from angles other than directly behind.
SV
Be careful with tail light placement. They likely have to be within a certain distance of the rear of the trailer, so as to be visible from angles other than directly behind.
SV
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Anonymous
Guest
SV: Thank you for pointing that out. I forgot that most tail lights have side markers built in. I was going to wrap the trailer in reflective tape later on but it would not be very visible as it is now.
Al: I have 105/150 springs on my bike. I also weigh 200 and it was necessary to set the shocks to the second harshest setting to compensate for Sudbury roads. Anything less and my bike would bottom out constantly! When I was living in Ottawa I had the shocks set to the lowest or second lowest setting and rode in comfort. I would say that this spring rate is acceptable for our weight in any road condition as long as there is only one person on the bike. I'm sure I'd need heavier springs to take a passenger on a blast through Sudbury.
Steve
Al: I have 105/150 springs on my bike. I also weigh 200 and it was necessary to set the shocks to the second harshest setting to compensate for Sudbury roads. Anything less and my bike would bottom out constantly! When I was living in Ottawa I had the shocks set to the lowest or second lowest setting and rode in comfort. I would say that this spring rate is acceptable for our weight in any road condition as long as there is only one person on the bike. I'm sure I'd need heavier springs to take a passenger on a blast through Sudbury.
Steve
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Anonymous
Guest
srivett2 said:
Thanks for the info. Al.
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Anonymous
Guest
I solved my wiring problem today. The ground from the frame to engine must be in poor condition because I installed the tail light converter on my car and it works well with the LED trailer lights.
I also took the trailer for another short ride. I dropped my tire pressure down to 5PSI and I still get a wobble above 70 km/hr so the trailer isn't safe. This time I didn't have the hitch to tail section struts in place so that may be part of the problem. It seems to me that the rear passenger mounts aren't strnog enough either because they can be deflected fairly easily. If I had a welder I'd make a new hitch welded to the centre stand feet because I've seen this method work. :?
Steve
I also took the trailer for another short ride. I dropped my tire pressure down to 5PSI and I still get a wobble above 70 km/hr so the trailer isn't safe. This time I didn't have the hitch to tail section struts in place so that may be part of the problem. It seems to me that the rear passenger mounts aren't strnog enough either because they can be deflected fairly easily. If I had a welder I'd make a new hitch welded to the centre stand feet because I've seen this method work. :?
Steve
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Planecrazy
Guest
Steve,
Did you ever work out the tongue weight so that the proper amount was resting on the hitch? If not, that could still account for the wobble you're experiencing. Also, have you double checked to make sure the ball is located at the exact centerline of your wheels? If it's off even slightly it could contribute to wobble and sway -- keep in mind this would not be nearly as noticeable behind a car.
Look forward to the update!
Steve 8)
Did you ever work out the tongue weight so that the proper amount was resting on the hitch? If not, that could still account for the wobble you're experiencing. Also, have you double checked to make sure the ball is located at the exact centerline of your wheels? If it's off even slightly it could contribute to wobble and sway -- keep in mind this would not be nearly as noticeable behind a car.
Look forward to the update!
Steve 8)
A
Anonymous
Guest
I went for a rip with the naked frame and it handled quite well! I wasn't scared for once so there is something wrong with my box design that causes the wobble. I am going to see about getting a beer cooler and making a partial flatbed this time around. This means I will have to mount the spare tire under the trailer (although the sidewalls aren't flexed at a standstill running 5PSI may be pretty hard on the tires so I don't want to go without a spare). I didn't have the struts on the back this time either so I think I'll forget about using them. I just hope the passenger pegs don't fatigue and snap on me. Anything mechanical engineers in the house?
Back to the wiring, what a pain! I will have to rewire the bike totally if I ever hope to have those stupid LEDs working properly. If I run a jumper wire from the battery to the headlight fuse the headlight brightens. If I do this to the signal fuse the rest of the lights stop flickering with the blinkers. This doesn't totally fix the LED issue but it makes them a bit better for daylight operation. :twisted:
PS Two chains in this photo :lol:
Steve
Back to the wiring, what a pain! I will have to rewire the bike totally if I ever hope to have those stupid LEDs working properly. If I run a jumper wire from the battery to the headlight fuse the headlight brightens. If I do this to the signal fuse the rest of the lights stop flickering with the blinkers. This doesn't totally fix the LED issue but it makes them a bit better for daylight operation. :twisted:
PS Two chains in this photo :lol:
Steve
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Anonymous
Guest
I would wish to add a few thoughts. Your tongue weight is going to be the most crucial item for stability. Any thought into the braking process IE what is your GVW when you have full wet bike with you and all the gear and trailer, does this exceed your brakes rated capacity? Let me get this straight, you attached your hitch mounts to the passenger footpegs mount? you have only (2) 1/4" grade 5 bolts holding the hitch assembly to the bike and safety chains attached to the hitch? I trully hope your local "law enforcement" don't stop you as I do believe you would get cited for an unsafe vehicle. When considering pulling a trailer with anything these are some of the most critical things to think about, there are more but these were some I feel you have failed to consider. You are trying to use a sport bike as a utility vehicle, I suppose you try to hammer a nail in with a screwdriver, or loosen a bolt with a hammer. Kudos on the creativity, but go get yourself a small station wagon for hauling crap and enjoy that bike the way it was meant to be. :twisted:
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