A
ashdricky
Guest
dose anyone know of a dry sump conversion ever being performed on a first or second gen GS?
Thanks - Rob
Thanks - Rob
-
Required reading for all forum users!!!
Welcome!
Register to access the full functionality of the GSResources forum. Until you register and activate your account you will not have full forum access, nor will you be able to post or reply to messages.A note to new registrants...
All new forum registrations must be activated via email before you have full access to the forum.A Special Note about Email accounts!
DO NOT SIGN UP USING hotmail, outlook, gmx, sbcglobal, att, bellsouth or email.com. They delete our forum signup emails.A note to old forum members...
I receive numerous requests from people who can no longer log in because their accounts were deleted. As mentioned in the forum FAQ, user accounts are deleted if you haven't logged in for the past 6 months. If you can't log in, then create a new forum account. If you don't get an error message, then check your email account for an activation message. If you get a message stating that the email address is already in use, then your account still exists so follow the instructions in the forum FAQ for resetting your password.Have you forgotten your password or have a new email address? Then read the forum FAQ for details on how to reset it.
Any email requests for "can't log in anymore" problems or "lost my password" problems will be deleted. Read the forum FAQ and follow the instructions there - that's what we have one for...
-
Returning Visitors
If you are a returning visitor who never received your confirmation email, then odds are your email provider is blockinig emails from our server. The only thing that can be done to get around this is you will have to try creating another forum account using an email address from another domain.
If you are a returning visitor to the forum and can't log in using your old forum name and password but used to be able to then chances are your account is deleted. Purges of the databases are done regularly. You will have to create a new forum account and you should be all set.
It's possible - but difficult. The sidecar guys never found it necessary here in NZ. The roller bearing bottom ends get by quite well on low pressure oiling. It's just the supply to the cams which needs to be guaranteed - and a little sump baffling seems to do that quite well.
The real problem is mounting a scavenge pump somewhere....
I have seen speedway TQ GS's where the gearbox has been cut off and a separate belt driven multi stage pump is used. This works on an inline installation in the TQ where the in/out box is driven off the end of the crank.
The real problem is mounting a scavenge pump somewhere....
I have seen speedway TQ GS's where the gearbox has been cut off and a separate belt driven multi stage pump is used. This works on an inline installation in the TQ where the in/out box is driven off the end of the crank.
Last edited:
It's a very specialised application - using the motor in a shaft drive speedway car. If the crank is in line with the chassis centerline you don't need the OE gearbox.
The sidecar racing guys frequently dry sump the later plain bearing motors for two reasons. Ground clearance - a flat sump lets them lower the motor - and positive and constant oil supply under big sideways G forces.
I seem to remember someone here has mentioned dry sumping drag race motors too - there are potential gains from reducing oil drag.
A
ashdricky
Guest
I have a Slipper clutch made using a GSXR basket, and I believe it requires oil, I don't think it can run dry. also what of the gear set? how is oil distributed here?
Home-made slipper clutch? Very impressive!
The pressure fed oiling system remains as OE - incl the feeds to the gearbox. All a dry sump conversion does is remove the oil storage from the sump to a remote tank. The tank is usually shaped so as to retain oil around the feed to the pressure pump - hence they're often used for applications like sidecar racing where there are big horizontal G forces which could lead to oil starvation with the conventional sump.
A
ashdricky
Guest
It has been a MUCH more challenging adventure than originally thought. I may release info after I can prove it's functionality, I wanted to spit flame out the tail pipe when i downshift like motoGP. A slipper clutch is one of the things I needed to have for this characteristic.
Hey Storm, I have had quite the interesting few months, I was overseas doing some work with bikes this past summer, and after returning stateside I took a job with General Electric in Ashtabula. I am just now getting back into the swing of things and completing my workspace. Yea FBG did get the transmission cut for me, only on upshift though as at that point slipper clutch was a pipe dream.
so in theory This may not be that difficult? easier than clutch conversion?
No - i'd rate doing the slipper clutch at 6/10 but a dry sump setup at 8/10 on degreee of difficulty.
Besides the actual sump and scavenge pump, you've got an external tank and the requisite plumbing....
A
ashdricky
Guest
in my mind plumbing seems to be easier than machining various metals. as far as the resevoir I had considered using the inside of the swinging arm.
This is a dry sump for a yamaha FZR1000 or R1. Machined from billet at some expense....Note the external connection for oil in which matches the original pickup point. Scavenge is by the external pump visible in front of the final drive sprocket - it picks up from a side extension to the sump and pumps to the external tank.
For what it's worth, I've always worked on the rule of thumb that you need about half the oil capacity again for air as the scavenge pump always picks up air with the oil and it has to have room to separate out. So 4 litres of oil - I'd use a 6 litre tank.
Oh and you don't get something for nothing either...in this application, you must use an electric water pump as the scavenge pump takes the place of the OE water pump....more complications.
Not easy is it.....
For what it's worth, I've always worked on the rule of thumb that you need about half the oil capacity again for air as the scavenge pump always picks up air with the oil and it has to have room to separate out. So 4 litres of oil - I'd use a 6 litre tank.
Oh and you don't get something for nothing either...in this application, you must use an electric water pump as the scavenge pump takes the place of the OE water pump....more complications.
Not easy is it.....
