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Engine Paint In Grey

  • Thread starter Thread starter Suzuki_Don
  • Start date Start date
S

Suzuki_Don

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I have searched hi and low in the forum for an answer to this question. I am sure I have seen a post on it somewhere. What type and color paint should I use on the crankcases, cylinders and head if I want to retain the original Suzuki grey aluminium color.

I think I would be using rattle cans if I can obtain them in the right color and the right temperature paint. What are your thoughts on the correct temp. paint to use. Taking into account that the crankcases, cylinders and head run at different temperatures.

I thought I would paint the crankcases while they are out of the frame and in two halves. Please give me your thoughts.
Cheers. Don.
 
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Rattle cans are ok but Por-15 engine paint would be more durable I think.

Painted my 550 with VHT engine paint - good up to 500F which is plenty. The paint color was called "aluminum" and did not match the factory paint very well - not as bright. Silver might be better if you choose this brand but I'm not sure. How's that for non-definitive information.:(
 
i would go with POR-15 for its qualities alone, but it may not be a perfect match for the oem color
 
Rattle cans are ok but Por-15 engine paint would be more durable I think.

Painted my 550 with VHT engine paint - good up to 500F which is plenty. The paint color was called "aluminum" and did not match the factory paint very well - not as bright. Silver might be better if you choose this brand but I'm not sure. How's that for non-definitive information.:(

NESSISM what is Por-15. Is it a paint that is used in a spray gun. Where can I see a pic of your 550 so I can see paint job on engine.
 
NESSISM what is Por-15. Is it a paint that is used in a spray gun. Where can I see a pic of your 550 so I can see paint job on engine.

Google Por-15 and check the 550E linked in my signature
 
i would powder-coat

the rattle-can job wont last as long, espec if you use the pressure washer to get the dirt off inbetween the fins etc)

the two-pack paint is a suitable finish too, but is a lot of work and gives a thick coating (that i dont like, though you might 8-[)

and on the $$$ front, yeah, use the rattle-can

or clean it chemically or through the media-blasting and leave it like that
looks primo, but will go darker over time

choices...

forgot to say, clear-coat works well too (except for the head)

here's a pic of media blasted parts

P3300296.jpg
 
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I have engine envy. In hindsight I wish that I had split my cases when I did my engine, if only for the reason that I could have gotten them that clean. VHT makes a high temp paint called "nu-cast". They have aluminum and cast steel versions. They look pretty good. Although, I don't expect that they last. Most rattle can engine paints don't live long. I haven't ridden my bike enough to give a full report on the longevity of the paint. It sure looks good sitting in the garage though.
 
The trick to getting rattle can hot paint to last is, of course, prep. Media blasting would be best, lots of scrubbing is next best

Then, paint the case half and put it in a 300 degree oven for a few hours. That will make the paint much more durable.

Of course, the oven curing smells and your wife will never forgive you, but what price perfection?
 
Acid washed, truck washed ( just heavy duty soap), painted (VHT universal aluminiun) and baked leads it to a long lasting finish. Here is proof of a 8 yrs old paint job

engine2.jpg
 
Acid washed, truck washed ( just heavy duty soap), painted (VHT universal aluminiun) and baked leads it to a long lasting finish. Here is proof of a 8 yrs old paint job

that looks sharp, sharpy :-D

i'm curious about the durability, how many kms have you done since painting the engine and how many high-pressure washes?
 
Acid washed, truck washed ( just heavy duty soap), painted (VHT universal aluminiun) and baked leads it to a long lasting finish. Here is proof of a 8 yrs old paint job

engine2.jpg

Hi Sharpy, that's just the finish that I am after. Did you do the crankcases the same color as the cylinders or are they just polished.
 
that looks sharp, sharpy :-D

i'm curious about the durability, how many kms have you done since painting the engine and how many high-pressure washes?

About 50,000klms and NEVER pressured washed it. Dont really get caught in the rain aswell.
 
Cases and every thing was done at the same time. on the 1000's only the top half of the case is done and the lower half is just plain clean alloy. A lot of work as its back to BARE everything then went in a acid dip and came out all clean. washed and painted then bake in kitchen oven at 180F degrees for a hour. Even the top cases fitted after i removed the barrel studs. The barrels are tricky as the bores ride up when hot but you just need to have it set up as the barrels cool and have them all level.

29c9re2.jpg

Barrelson.jpg
 
About 50,000klms and NEVER pressured washed it. Dont really get caught in the rain aswell.

Of course it never blo*dy rains in Oz!

Just done exactly the same on my S (only I soda blasted and scrubbed instead of dipping). Looks like the same colour as well - not the silver original finish but VHT Engine Enamel Aluminium by Simoniz (I thought the silver was 'too silver' if you know what I mean).

I must take some photos as I'm pretty pleased how it turned out - I don't think the bike had ever been washed and I had to weld on some bits of alloy to replace broken fins.

I'll let you know in 8 year's time if it's stood the English climate as well as Sharpy's has the Australian!
 
Looks like the same colour as well - not the silver original finish but VHT Engine Enamel Aluminium by Simoniz (I thought the silver was 'too silver' if you know what I mean).


Noticed the same thing; VHT Aluminum paint is more gray than the OE paint, and not as glossy. So far it?s holding up ok on my 550. I don?t think you need to bake it in the oven since the paint will heat up and cure when you run the engine.

Picture063.jpg
 
Thanks a lot guys. There's some great information here. When I get around to the paint job this will be a real valuable thread. A good idea to maybe only do the top case half as it will be the only one on show.
Thanks again guys. it looks like it will be VHT for me.
 
Anyone use duplicolor on their engine? I have applied it to do calipers and some small parts with success. Getting ready to do the 1100E, trying to decide which way to go.
 
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WTF is wrong with VHT universal Aluminum paint? When i did my bike 11 yrs ago i didnt paint the tappet cover. I know its original suzi paint and i can not tell the differance at all. And the bottom half of the cases are NOT painted as standard. Pics to follow
 
WTF is wrong with VHT universal Aluminum paint? When i did my bike 11 yrs ago i didnt paint the tappet cover. I know its original suzi paint and i can not tell the differance at all. And the bottom half of the cases are NOT painted as standard. Pics to follow

I have used VHT clear high temp with success on calipers, the only reason I asked is because I have several new cans of gray engine dup I have not used. I would like something a little darker, not to concerned with the stock color match.
 
What about VHT caliper paint on the engine?? The temp range is rated higher than the engine paint & it says it's more chip resistant... I was considering using the "cast alum" color on my 1100E to clean it up a bit.

Any downside to using caliper paint vs. engine paint on an engine?
 
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