• Required reading for all forum users!!!

    Welcome!
    Register to access the full functionality of the GSResources forum. Until you register and activate your account you will not have full forum access, nor will you be able to post or reply to messages.

    A note to new registrants...
    All new forum registrations must be activated via email before you have full access to the forum.

    A Special Note about Email accounts!
    DO NOT SIGN UP USING hotmail, outlook, gmx, sbcglobal, att, bellsouth or email.com. They delete our forum signup emails.

    A note to old forum members...
    I receive numerous requests from people who can no longer log in because their accounts were deleted. As mentioned in the forum FAQ, user accounts are deleted if you haven't logged in for the past 6 months. If you can't log in, then create a new forum account. If you don't get an error message, then check your email account for an activation message. If you get a message stating that the email address is already in use, then your account still exists so follow the instructions in the forum FAQ for resetting your password.

    Have you forgotten your password or have a new email address? Then read the forum FAQ for details on how to reset it.

    Any email requests for "can't log in anymore" problems or "lost my password" problems will be deleted. Read the forum FAQ and follow the instructions there - that's what we have one for...

  • Returning Visitors

    If you are a returning visitor who never received your confirmation email, then odds are your email provider is blockinig emails from our server. The only thing that can be done to get around this is you will have to try creating another forum account using an email address from another domain.

    If you are a returning visitor to the forum and can't log in using your old forum name and password but used to be able to then chances are your account is deleted. Purges of the databases are done regularly. You will have to create a new forum account and you should be all set.

engine painting inside covers?

  • Thread starter Thread starter gabos666
  • Start date Start date
G

gabos666

Guest
Hi all!
I prepping my engine for painting.It is really a mess.There are corrosion and pitting everywhere.Can I paint the areas on the crankcase where the covers go?The paint will resisr the oil in there?Thanks
 
^^^ Whut he said.

Just wire brush off any crud and then coat the affected areas, I'm guessing the upper "walls" of the galleries, with the heaviest weight oil you have laying around, making sure not to get it on the cover gasket surfaces.
 
^^^ What they said. Seriously, unless the inside is anodized it wont help or stay put. No need to paint the inside anyway. If the inside is badly pitted and discolored, then that engine has had a hard life.
 
There is paint inside the engine from the factory. I just disassembled a 83 1100 and there is black paint inside the clutch and transmission area. It is not on purpose it just appears to be overspray.

If you are asking "can I coat the surfaces where the gasket goes with paint." You can if prepped properly. Not between the head gasket surfaces though.

I have built race engines, not bikes but cars, and it was a standard practice to coat the insides, when properly prepped, to enhance oil flow back to the sump.
 
Thats a recipe for disaster in a bike. He had better be damned well sure that at NO POINT in the next 50 years is there a chance of paint peeling off and clogging an oil galley, the oil pump, or getting into a crank bearing. If the inside of a cover is so bad that its pitted and discolored the engine has been severely abused at some point.

In such a case, the farthest I would personally go is to bead blast the insides clean, rinse very well so theres no beads left behind and button it up. The oil sloshing will protect the bare metal and it will be as good as it ever will need to be. and there is no need for the oil to run back down to the oil pan any faster than it already does from the factory in a ( stock ) car or bike really. If there was the manufacturer would have addressed that issue.
 
you would never get paint to stick to the casings inside anyway. the pores would be so full of oil you would never get it out. once the engine warms up the paint would just fall off. as Chuck says, to many holes and orifices to block up with paint. not worth even a risk.
if the insides are corroded/oxidised what are the oil passageways like (the ones you cant see) i wouldn't even use those cases!
 
He can use the cases Age..but I would soak them for a few days covered in 8% vinegar to derust the passages and then flush them with lots of carbs spray and compressed air. Point being get everything as clean as possible as to eliminate possibilities of crap breaking loose and reeking havoc.

And your spot on as for the pores being so impregnated with oil that theres no chance of any success

I mean what the heck..the engine is apart so why not take the time and attention to detail to do things right. Least thats always been my perspective on any job I am involved with.
 
We had no issues getting the paint to adhere to the insides. Like I said, properly prepared, it will adhere. Besides the insides of these engines is not porous, it is as smooth as the outside. Secondly most of the oil galleries are very large, remember most of these engines use low pressure high volume lubrication systems.

Anyways, the OP did not say there was corrosion inside the engine. He asked where the covers go on the engine the surfaces are corroded. He did not say how badly, he does say there is pitting which is probably the exterior of the engine.

If the engine is that badly pitted then a good glass beading after complete disassembly followed by a light low pressure blast of 80-120 grit aluminum oxide will clean up the corrosion. Paint will not adhere very well to glass beaded aluminum, you will get far better results using aluminum oxide.

Doing this of course requires a very thorough cleaning of the cases and etc after the blasting to remove all abrasive material and any oil from the shop air used for blasting.

It takes me about 25 hours to disassemble, paint strip using glass beads, re blasting with aluminum oxide, clean and clean and finally paint a 1000/1100 air cooled engine. I never have problems with paint adhesion or the engine destroying itself with hidden abrasives left inside the engine.

This of course is just my opinion and experience of doing the same thing for 25+ years.
 
Thank you for the help.I solved the problem with lot of elbow grease and a nylon disc in my dremel.after that I put the covers in the dishwaser for 2 hours max heat.they coming out nice. Man,this engine is a beast to clean,all that nooks and hard to reach places.I wanted to sandblast the whole thing,but i got horrible prices,so it wont happen.anyway,the cases are super clean now.i will put some picture,when i am at home.have a nice day!
 
I will PM you the password to my photobucket. Go there and look around..some 950 rebuild and prep pics are there. Then if you have any questions let me know. But for god sakes DO NOT DO NOT DO NOT put any paint INSIDE the covers or the cases...period.
 
Last edited:
Thank you,i will see the pics.message received ,i will not use paint for those places.
 
Hi all!

Thak you for the photos Chuck! It was real inspiring. I met with a guy with a real good connection to a power coater, and sand blaster. The guy gave me a real friendly price. So the engine will be soda blasted! The frame and other bits will be powder coated. I am really happy about it. Thank you for the encouragement guys, to do it right :)
 
Gabos666 - taking the time to do it right and spend the money. It will be well worth it when you step back and take a look at how beautiful that engine looks. Unlike cars, our engines are out there for all to see so it has to be right! Go dig up my old GS550M rebuild thread for some baby katana inspiration and a look at my engine paint job. You can achieve really good results at home if you take the time to properly prep it.
 
Back
Top