Engine stops pulling at 7k

[jwhelan65]

If the bike truly has only 5900 mi on it, I would wonder if the valves have EVER been adjusted... quite possibly the entire reason it starts so hard.

I doubt they were, it had been sitting since 1982 in a controlled climate storage unit.

 

[Guest]

I doubt they were, it had been sitting since 1982 in a controlled climate storage unit.

She's a beauty Joe !! Ya gotta adjust those valves first though, should make quite a difference.

 

[El Giablo]

It is definitely not an intake/vacuum leak. It is either starving or retarded :-\\\ G.

 

[waterman]

How is your air filter, lightly oiled? My brother's air filter was dripping with oil which helped compensate for the half teaspoon of fine rust I pulled out of his carbs. He bought it new in 80, had about 60K miles on bike, never had carbs off.

Nice looking bike. Would be proud to own such a beauty.:clap:

 

[jwhelan65]

It is definitely not an intake/vacuum leak. It is either starving or retarded :-\\\ G.

Sounds like valves and float level for starters

 

[jwhelan65]

How is your air filter, lightly oiled? My brother's air filter was dripping with oil which helped compensate for the half teaspoon of fine rust I pulled out of his carbs. He bought it new in 80, had about 60K miles on bike, never had carbs off.

Nice looking bike. Would be proud to own such a beauty.:clap:

Thanks

It is a dry stock OEM replacement filter..

 

[El Giablo]

Beautiful bike. I would start with the carbs. Valves do not get tight from sitting... G.

 

[mlinder]

ver ver pretty bike.

I'm mostly with Pos...popst.. whatever, the guy from Santa Barbara. I think it's ignition. Either low voltage or broken advance/timing.


/edit: posplayr

 

[Guest]

Beautiful bike. I would start with the carbs. Valves do not get tight from sitting... G.

Agreed, but they are tight because they've most likely never been checked/adjusted since new.

Suzuki service manual states to check/adjust them at 600 mi, 4000 mi and again at 7000 mi. This bike is approaching 6000 mi & it's unknown if the valve cover has ever been off.

My guess is they are long overdue for an adjustment. Not saying this is the ultimate fix, but the hard starting is a classic symptom of tight valves.

Could also contribute to why it's not revving completely either - the valves can't open enough to allow enough fuel mixture into the cylinders.

 

[Guest]

+1, on the valve check/adjust to begin with...might as well, if it's unknown whether the P.O. did do it. Take a look at venting too (via the fuel cap)...next time it dies whilst riding, open the cap, watching (listening) for a vacuum of sorts, and see if it starts with the cap partially open.

 

[tkent02]

Could also contribute to why it's not revving completely either - the valves can't open enough to allow enough fuel mixture into the cylinders.

Wrong .

 

[jwhelan65]

I'm sure the valves need adjusting, but it starts immediately if I turn the petcock to prime. Has to be the float level after reading everything here.

 

[srsupertrap]

I'm sure the valves need adjusting, but it starts immediately if I turn the petcock to prime. Has to be the float level after reading everything here.

Read through the thread: Jim you stated carbs have been cleaned, I take it you cleaned them and dipped them etc but didn't check the float height. If you were the first one ever in the carbs then the last time the floats were "set" was at the factory. Usually those guys set the floats with a Go/No-Go gage, hard to believe all four are set wrong. Of course this reasoning does not take into account anyone screwing around between then & now.

PS: Since it runs into a wall at 7K, I would perform a voltage drop test in the garage below 7K in 2000 rpm increments up to max revs. Compare voltage drop values at both coils. With no load in the garage does it rev right past 7K?

 

[jwhelan65]

Read through the thread: Jim you stated carbs have been cleaned, I take it you cleaned them and dipped them etc but didn't check the float height. If you were the first one ever in the carbs then the last time the floats were "set" was at the factory. Usually those guys set the floats with a Go/No-Go gage, hard to believe all four are set wrong. Of course this reasoning does not take into account anyone screwing around between then & now.

PS: Since it runs into a wall at 7K, I would perform a voltage drop test in the garage below 7K in 2000 rpm increments up to max revs. Compare voltage drop values at both coils. With no load in the garage does it rev right past 7K?

I'll try that, I did adjust the floats to the factory setting on all four. The strange thing is it runs perfectly until 7k, in fact I did not notice it until I took it up the highway on its second ride in 28 years.

 

[srsupertrap]

Just another thought:

1) You already adjusted floats, so they are okay.
2) Valve adjustment won't change by sitting but certainly due.
3) While running in the garage in Neutral with the gas cap REMOVED if the engine spins right past 7K then like G said it fuel starvation problem. The gas cap vent has become clogged which could happend over the course of sitting

 

[jwhelan65]

Just another thought:

1) You already adjusted floats, so they are okay.
2) Valve adjustment won't change by sitting but certainly due.
3) While running in the garage in Neutral with the gas cap REMOVED if the engine spins right past 7K then like G said it fuel starvation problem. The gas cap vent has become clogged which could happend over the course of sitting

I'll give it a try today

 

[tkent02]

One more place to look is a partially clogged exhaust, since it has been sitting there could be mouse nests in there (or even the mice!), little kids putting jellybeans or beads in the exhaust, it could be anything. I had one GS 1000 that wouldn't go high RPM, some PO had stuffed a big ball of steel wool down into the pipe. Also once had a car where something broke in the muffler and blocked it, they both ran somewhat similar to what you are describing.

More likely you will find something else wrong but this is just another possibility if everything else checks out.

 

[posplayr]

One more place to look is a partially clogged exhaust, since it has been sitting there could be mouse nests in there (or even the mice!), little kids putting jellybeans or beads in the exhaust, it could be anything. I had one GS 1000 that wouldn't go high RPM, some PO had stuffed a big ball of steel wool down into the pipe. Also once had a car where something broke in the muffler and blocked it, they both ran somewhat similar to what you are describing.

More likely you will find something else wrong but this is just another possibility if everything else checks out.

yea, I think there was a guy on here recently that IIRC had a rock in his pipe and would not run.

 

[Nessism]

Hey Jim,

Yes it is very hard starting and the idle increases after it warms up. I had it out today and it killed, I had to turn the petcock to Prime to get it to start. Plugs are appear to be ok. Ed mentioned swapping out the igniter with my 1100 but the connection are different.

Joe,

The ignitor part numbers for the '80 750E and '82 1100E are both within the same supercession tree. Are you sure the plugs are different? Doesn't sound right. Basically, all the ignitors are the same other than the later model bikes with the advance curve is built in. Since both your bikes have a mechanical advance the ignitors should interchange.

Please double check and report back.

Ed

 

[salty_monk]

I had this on my 1000g except at 6k. Turned out to be an ignitor fault.
Dyna S fixed it.
You can use any of the 16v ignitors that have the advance step in them, they are all close enough not to matter....