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Exhaust header bolts to studs

Yes, some have done it.

Since I am not one of them, I have no idea what studs were used, but I have to ask, ...
what is your motivation to use studs instead of bolts?

.
 
The thread size is 8mm x 1.25. Napa sells studs this size. I just used threaded rod cut to length.
 
The motivation is to stop the inevitable thread stripping that occurs with bolts into the aluminum head.
 
OK, I understand that part, but it only wears if the bolts are in and out on a regular basis.

I know that some headers require removal for an oil change, that would provide a bit of 'motivation'.

Otherwise, the header will likely not be off more than once or twice every three or four years, I don't think there would be that much wear on the bolt holes.

One other thing to consider: because the studs stick out farther, it will be a bit harder to wrangle the header that much farther away from the engine when you do find the need to remove it.

.
 
OK, I understand that part, but it only wears if the bolts are in and out on a regular basis.

I know that some headers require removal for an oil change, that would provide a bit of 'motivation'.

Otherwise, the header will likely not be off more than once or twice every three or four years, I don't think there would be that much wear on the bolt holes.

One other thing to consider: because the studs stick out farther, it will be a bit harder to wrangle the header that much farther away from the engine when you do find the need to remove it.

.

I was taking mine off every year to paint...so that's why I got it ceramic coated...shouldn't have to take it off again. :)
 
I've also seriously considered studs. I have to remove my Yosh pipe to change the oil. Major pain in the butt. I've already chased the threads with a tap to keep them clean, but it's always a risk taking them on and off.
 
I've also seriously considered studs. I have to remove my Yosh pipe to change the oil. Major pain in the butt. I've already chased the threads with a tap to keep them clean, but it's always a risk taking them on and off.

And the tap chews up the threads as well.
 
I wonder whether the type of steel used is important in this application...a softer nut on a harder stud might protect the stud threads and save having to replace the stud in the future (which would be more difficult than the oem bolt).

I've been abe to get the oems out in every case except my practise attempts on a spare engine, so I wonder too if the OEMs should be replaced whenever removal was difficult.

...and not to be anal but I like the organisation of the forum pretty well.
This area is to be used only for general GS topics. For non-GS related topics, join the Off-Topic usergroup. Technical questions are not to be posted here.

There's been a few showing up here lately
 
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