Faulty SH775?

[blackhammer]

Just wondering if anyone has a had a bad SH775 out of the box?

Getting nothing out of mine.
Bought new from partzilla a couple of years ago for 70$.
in my gsx1100 with 1150 efe motor. Complete and minimal rewire using single point ground to frame system. has a motogadget m-unit, dyna 2000 and antigravity 16cell.
Has a brand new electrex stator getting 85ish VAC each leg. Continuity is good in all the wires.
pics attached in case I got a fake.

ill just have to buy a new one as the bike is set up now for a sh775, double the price at partzilla now of course.....

is is there any way to test the r/r apart from on the bike?

 

[tom203]

Looks genuine to me. So you got the positive (red) and negative output correct...like in this pic

 

[fastbysuzuki]

Like this

 

[Redman]

If you have what is suppose to go into it (3 phase 70+ VAC) going into it, but dont have what is suppose to come out of it (13+ VDC) comming out of it, well, then, it aint doing what it is suppose to.

But first, lets discuss the DC- (ground) connection. Where is it (R/R black wire) connected to....?, and is that what you used when you measured the voltage.....?
Reason I ask is this: If the R/R black wire is connected to the battery box (solenoid mounting bolt), but the battery box is not well grounded, and you were trying to measure, say, the voltage with the meter negitive somewhere else like the battery negitive or some other ground, then would conclude the r/r is not charging even if the r/r itself is good.

Measure the DC volts out of the R/R right on the R/R red wire and Black wire. If okay there, then check at the battery to see if it is getting to there.

 

[Nessism]

Be sure to bypass the factory wiring and input the stator wires directly into the R/R, and take the ground straight to the battery. Only part of the factory wiring I would use is to send the power output through the fuse box. Be sure to check for voltage loss along that line. There is typically some resistance build up and voltage loss unless you clean the connectors.

 

[Chuck78]

I've installed 7 or so used SH775's, and every single used version worked perfectly and still works perfectly several years later. $45 used on eBay plus a new $13 or $15 connector kit if you want to have a watertight seal and a fancy looking connector.

I take the negative wire to a single point ground (not factory, this is one of Posplayr Jim's mods) on the frame near the battery, trying to keep it as short as possible from the regulator rectifier.

And as Ed said, make sure to bypass the factory wiring loop which sends one stator leg through the headlight switch.

 

[blackhammer]

Thanks guys, yes, definitely wired + & - correctly.
Everything electrical on the bike is new, including a complete rewire.
all of the load circuits are earthed to a single point that includes the sh775, that is specifically the dyna2000, motogadget and sh775 to the single point ground on the frame.
Sh775 is rubber mounted but the single point earth is on the frame mounting bolt and is very short.

i have two 30 amp fuses, one between the sh775 + output and the motogadget and the other between the feed that runs on to the battery from the motogadget.
bike runs without the first fuse in on battery only. So testing there gives me 0vdc on the r/r output.

I will try an old shunt type reg I have lying around before buying a new sh775

its hard to accept it would be faulty from the box, but not sure what else I can do to check it. I'm sure I've got the wiring right, I read just about every thread posted on the forum about optimal grounding/wiring twice before I put this loom together.

 

[Chuck78]

Nate, I know it's hard to come to grips with the possibility after doing such a meticulous job on every single detail on that bike, but if it were me, and nothing made sense, I would still try and isolate everything even if it meant making up a temporary wiring harness just to hook up the sh775 to the stator, ground, and even a spare battery to charge while the bike runs off of another battery (grounds both linked).

And by the way, DO NOT drain that lithium iron phosphate battery down below 7 or 9 volts, that is the death of them!

Then you know for sure if nothing is happening inside of it. Wiring can get complicated, and although I think I've mastered it as far as I can without having the extensive electrical engineering knowledge of someone like Jim Posplayr, we all make mistakes, including myself! That would be my take on it if it were me. Isolated to make sure it wasn't anything that I overlooked, that way I could rule out the possibility of anything but a bad sh775.

If you have a known good regulator rectifier, may as well just rig up a wiring harness to hook that up, or maybe it has the same terminal types as the sh775 even.

Your bike is a beautiful work of art and also engineering masterpiece! I will be very excited to see that thing on the road! I occasionally share photos of it with others to get them excited about Suzuki GS's!
Best of luck,

Chuck

 

[blackhammer]

Thanks Chuck, good advice mate, I will set up and test the way you suggest with the sh775 isolated from any of the bikes wiring. I'm sure I can get a shunt r/r to try as well.

In the grand scheme of things 130 for a new one isn't the end of the world considering what I've spent on the project so far, it's more the mystery of something like the SH775 with its solid reputation on these forums not working out of the box. As you say, That causes the serious doubt to creep in about what I've done with my rewire.
but with the setup I have there really is very little to the wiring!

Ahh chuck, really nice of you to say, part of the build credit for the bike goes to you mate, all that front fork and brake advice really helped.
i have been riding the bike, althouh not far, and I have a good charger especially for lifepo batteries, I don't want to kill the antigravity, not cheap.

 

[Chuck78]

Well perhaps if you buy another brand new one if this one turns out to be defective, you can just return the defective one on the same receipt as the one that you have just purchased! Otherwise, I'm pretty certain they would give you a hard time about the return since it is many months or a year later after the purchase of the faulty one... worth a try. Make sure it's faulty, first, though!

 

[bwringer]

I've seen issues with these in person twice. In both cases, one of the connectors had a bad crimp. It would test good with a continuity tester, but wouldn't carry any current.

Without the wiring in front of me, it's impossible to spot any issues; all we have is your solemn oath the wiring is fine. Despite the finest tools and craftsmanship, "stuff" happens.

If you can, get another set of experienced eyes on it. Or, as suggested above, make up a simple test harness and see what you get.

I predict a thunderous head slap once you figure it out...

 

[blackhammer]

Yes, I suspect you are correct, despite my insistence at infallible wiring skills.

i borrowed a rectifier off a mates bike that was definitely working and still nothing...well, almost nothing, almost 1vdc according to my fluke.
i did this before reading your post.

then I sat and pondered.

i used two mini spade fuses in the positive feed from the r/r, one pre m-unit, then one in line running from the m-unit to the battery.

the fuse holders I used I think may be the problem, the fuse closest to the r/r is heat damaged. Looking closely at the holder I think there is a poor connection there probably causing high resistance.
The fuse holders look to be low quality, and I must admit I did not really consider their importance in the charging system when I bought them.

Im going to replace them with something higher in quality and check the plug crimpings as suggested.

shall report back on findings.

 

[Guest]

I appreciate your wire routing skills, I was a Commercial Electrician for years, but **** happens. I had used good quality plastic covered lugs and the proper ratcheting crimpers for some battery wires and some years later one just slipped right out of the crimp. I'll just use bare lugs and heat shrink now.

 

[Boriqua]

I've installed 7 or so used SH775's, and every single used version worked perfectly and still works perfectly several years later. $45 used on eBay plus a new $13 or $15 connector kit if you want to have a watertight seal and a fancy looking connector.

I take the negative wire to a single point ground (not factory, this is one of Posplayr Jim's mods) on the frame near the battery, trying to keep it as short as possible from the regulator rectifier.

And as Ed said, make sure to bypass the factory wiring loop which sends one stator leg through the headlight switch.

I recently installed an Electrsport RR along with Eletrosport Stator but all the threads with you guys saying they are junk from hell and to get the SH775 have me thinking about it. Thing is when I go to ebay I just see a bunch with Chinese sellers. How do I search for the elusive real deal. Is there a phrase or something I am not including or do I just have to dig through all the Chinese units.
Alex

 

[hannibal]

I've had luck searching by the OEM part number or "RZR regulator". Searching for SH775 gives you a lot of junk. Also, filter foe Used items to eliminate the Chinese knock offs.

 

[robertbarr]

There's an ebay seller named "powersportsnation" or something very similar, and they carry boatloads of R/R's, including the SH775's. I've purchased a few from them myself. In most cases, they'll provide a photo of the part number on the back end of the unit.

 

[blackhammer]

well, the charging issues have defeated my best efforts to resolve them.

I'm going to start another thread to more accurately detail my setup and what ive done to date to resolve it, in the hope i might get some other suggestions from more experienced heads.

 

[Chuck78]

FYI having a mismatched stator and rotor will cause zero charging system output also. You would have to have one or the other from a first-generation 77-79 GS, I believe they are 12 poles., whereas the newer ones are 18 poles. Divide that by three phases and that is how many magnets the rotor should have to correspond with the proper stator.

 

[blackhammer]

Thanks Chuck,
you know i havent counted the magnets on the rotor, mainly because i thought the only rotors that could fit the 1150 were the larger crank end ones, 83 up 1100 and 1150 only i think?
So i assumed there would be no way to fit a 12 pole rotor.. i will check it though.
On the basis of that presumption i got a new 18 pole stator.

 

[Chuck78]

I forgot which engine you were running, and was reminded about how absolutely potent that bike will be! Wow. 1150 engine in a twin shock frame, that is the ultimate GS... yes, not too likely that you could have a mix-up of an incompatible rotor, & it sounds like you definitely have an 18 pole stator.

Try running your starter motor and ignition off of a car battery to test it, but run it with the state or leads unhooked. Then test them on AC voltage to see what output they have. They should have somewhere in the neighborhood of 30 volts up to 50 or even maybe 80 volts at higher rpm's, I can't remember, I would have to refer to my notes.

Then you will want to check with the stator hooked up to the regulator rectifier, check the voltage coming out of the regulator rectifier. You should have around 13.5 or 14 volts. Then just follow it down stream with the wiring.


I would make absolutely for certain that you have the regulator rectifier grounded properly, I try to ground both the stainless steel base plate of the actual housing, and ground the far-right terminal if you are looking at it with the wiring connections at the bottom, and looking at the finned side. The innermost terminal position of the right connector, I believe is the positive output. Double check this and reference some other information to confirm my recollections, as you would have no output if you had the ground and positive output reversed, and very possibly could have just blown the sh775. And possibly blown the stator? Don't worry if something similar to this did in fact happen, we've all done similar things at one point in our lives... learning experiences gained...

I would unhook everything else downstream after the regulator rectifier battery connections until you have determined the source of the problem, even if one segment of wiring at a time. Make sure that you have a proper ground to the frame, as in a single point ground and then directly to the battery,