There are 2 small wires coming out of your clutch lever, connecting those 2 wires, no matter how or where, will by-pass the clutch switch... Simple to follow the clutch switch wires to where they plug into the harness, not sure if under tank or inside headlight, unplug the switch wires and just plug the 2 wires at the harness together.
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First Bike - GS650G - Rusty Crusty
- Thread starter Eric4
- Start date
I opened up the headlight, to expose the harness. Followed the clutch switch wires, and looped them together (on the main harness side) but still didn't get any sign of life when pressing the starter button.
Then shorted out the starter relay with a screwdriver and she cranked over!
Threw in a spark plug and grounded it on the cylinder...SPARK!
I'm about out of daylight for today, but I'd consider it progress...
Since shorting out the relay provided a crank, is that safe to assume that a replacement relay should be in order? I cleaned the contacts and it didn't seem to make a difference...
Does not mean starter solenoid (relay) is bad. Could mean you don’t have 12V coming into and/or leaving the start button when you press it. You likely have a lot of electrical connections to clean up. Like, all of them. Need a voltmeter and get to testing.
That makes sense! I'll dig up my dielectric grease and start testing, the next chance I get. I appreciate y'alls help!
Grease is not a cleaner
Yes, I know...but it's good to use on clean contacts in my (limited) experience. I've got some steel pipe cleaners that should work on cleaning these connectors
Had a little time with the bike today, removing the carburetors, UNI air filter, and diagnosing the starter switch. The continuity wasn't reading on the switch, so I disassembled it and cleaned the contacts. Viola, she cranks.
Question about carburetor rebuild kits - is OEM a significant bump in quality, to justify a 5-10x cost increase? Since this is a 'junker' bike, would I get away with a cheaper rebuild? Or is the quality so junk that it isn't worth my time?
Cheers!
Eric
Question about carburetor rebuild kits - is OEM a significant bump in quality, to justify a 5-10x cost increase? Since this is a 'junker' bike, would I get away with a cheaper rebuild? Or is the quality so junk that it isn't worth my time?
Cheers!
Eric
See top 10 newbie mistakes thread. Kits are generally considered no good. OEM is best, get an oring kit from Nessism and follow his (Ed Ness) CV carb rebuild/cleaning tutorial found on BikeCliffs website fully, no shortcuts.
This is the way to go, both for quality and economy
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That was an informative read! I'll be contacting Nessim for a kit.
I haven't had much time to dig into the 650G, but the carburetor is next on the list... Forum member Charlie G recently provided me with heaps of replacement 650G parts! Forks, wheels, gaskets, final drive, fenders, electrical, and a whole lot more, so this project will now be codenamed The Suzuki of Theseus.
Funny coincidence - The day I picked up the parts from Charlie, a customer came into my work and I happened to bring up the bike project. He then tells me he's got a '79 GS550L that he doesn't want anymore, and I can just have it! So I'll be picking that up in a couple of weeks... It looked to be in much better shape than my 650G, and he said it was a strong runner when he had parked it a couple of years ago.
Whelp, I'm still struggling with gettin' this title transferred over... Perhaps one of y'all can help me out.
The DMV has lost all record of this bike, so I've got to create a whole new file. This requires 2 x VINs, engine number, and 'emission sticker'. The main VIN stamped on the headtube is easily readable, but the sticker on the left side is pretty hard to make out. Engine # seems to be revealing itself underneath the rust.
The emission sticker has me stumped however. I can't seem to find one, unless its the verbiage stamped onto the muffler itself? I'm starting the process of setting up an appointment with the CHP, but apparently they're 3 weeks behind currently.
I read somewhere that emission stickers didn't show up until '86?
The DMV has lost all record of this bike, so I've got to create a whole new file. This requires 2 x VINs, engine number, and 'emission sticker'. The main VIN stamped on the headtube is easily readable, but the sticker on the left side is pretty hard to make out. Engine # seems to be revealing itself underneath the rust.
The emission sticker has me stumped however. I can't seem to find one, unless its the verbiage stamped onto the muffler itself? I'm starting the process of setting up an appointment with the CHP, but apparently they're 3 weeks behind currently.
I read somewhere that emission stickers didn't show up until '86?
Markofalltrades
Forum Apprentice
Just apply for an abandoned title. The DMV wont tell you to do this because you kind of have to lie and maybe sign an affidavit. (LOL?) I in VA and maybe that only works here? It is pretty quick too. Tell them it has been abandoned on your property for over a year and you want an abandoned title.
I'm not seeing anything under the seat, or on the frame below the seat unfortunately... Do you have a picture of an emission sticker for this era? Can't seem to find anything on an image search.
Also, I got your carb o-ring kit today. Thanks!
On the rear fender, maybe. Check this listing...https://www.ebay.com/itm/286278050732
Good luck with the carbs. Be sure to check my carb rebuild tutorial.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/286278050732
I think I gave you an inner fender like that. It may have a sticker
I think I gave you an inner fender like that. It may have a sticker
Ah! You're right! I looked at it originally, but didn't double-check the inner fender. Sounds like now I've almost got everything needed to get this thing titled.
Now I just need to hope that my VIN Sticker on the headtube is legible enough to count. The last 5 or so digits are stamped onto the sticker, so I'd think that'd be close enough!
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Make sure there is a sticker showing the VIN somewhere else as well when you take it. If it's hard to read people have been known to print a second sticker out themselves and apply them under the seat on the frame somewhere.... It's just a Suzuki logo & a Vin number. (In theory a Suzuki dealer should be able to give you a "re-print" according to DMV. Yeah right...!
I'm torn if I should mock up a 'dealership' vin , and clearcoat/glue it onto the frame, or roll the dice and hope the DMV approves my OEM VIN sticker that shows the last 5 digits...
Today I spent some time on the carbs, soda-blastin' the exteriors, and working on the un-ganging of the four. Every screw has needed vice grip assistance, so it's been a slow process. Unfortunately the last screw on my choke tube has given me grief. I might need to use a more destructive method, but will keep trying with heat + wd40
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I wouldn’t leave it to chance if I was you… I try to use AAA for as much of the process as I can. Usually quicker and have allowed me to sort stuff and come back without making a fuss. DMV you never know who you’re going to get.
You’ll have to take it to CHP probably for a check as well as it’s out of the system so they could also give you a problem….
You’ll have to take it to CHP probably for a check as well as it’s out of the system so they could also give you a problem….
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