First Gen GSXR1100 Suspension

[posplayr]

just use a set of gsxr750wp/wn forks. theyre a direct drop in ,stem,bearings and steering stops.

ive had them on my 1100ET for years now and still havent ground out on anything and thats with a stacked 4 into 1 system.

You also have mono shock right? The extra rear height adds to the clearance.

 

[posplayr]

Thanks guys. Found one on ebay that's at $79.

Does the 954 top clamp match the GSXR bottom clamps (750 only? any limitation on what year?)

Interesting that many GSXR front ends are missing the top clamp anyway.

it looks like the 954 clamp will allow the forks to be set down by about an inch (maybe another 3/4" if forks are set down flush with top clamp... how then are bars attached?) and another 1/2" is gained if a 17" wheel is used that. That makes for 2&1/4" of the 4" difference (between GS1150 forks and GSXR forks).

It seems that the front would still be 1&3/4" lower or am I missing something? If radials are used is the tyre profile higher?

I have a spreadsheet that pulls most of these calculations together.

I dont have it here at work. You looking for :
17" wheels
120/70-17 and 180/55-17 tires
2nd gen GSXR 750 forks
Going 4:1 v.s. 4:2:1
Going monoshock or extended shocks?
Drop triple?

I can do a first cut and send it; You have MS Excel? or pdf?

 

[saffa]

You also have mono shock right? The extra rear height adds to the clearance.

this is true ....but i have an EZ too with twin shocks and that one is the same height off the ground ...although the rears are a tad longer so that may have a bearing on clearance

 

[posplayr]

this is true ....but i have an EZ too with twin shocks and that one is the same height off the ground ...although the rears are a tad longer so that may have a bearing on clearance

I'm pretty sure PJ (80GS1000) went to monoshock to get the clearance he needed after putting a late model GSXR 1000 fork on. In addition later he went 4:2:1 to pick up more clearance as his V&H woudl hit at time.

Katman says with the 750 forks and drops but with same V&H he only occasionally hits hut is when IIRC he is downshifting into a bottom turn to the right.

 

[Colin Green]

I have a spreadsheet that pulls most of these calculations together.

I dont have it here at work. You looking for :
17" wheels
120/70-17 and 180/55-17 tires
2nd gen GSXR 750 forks
Going 4:1 v.s. 4:2:1
Going monoshock or extended shocks?
Drop triple?

I can do a first cut and send it; You have MS Excel? or pdf?

You're a champion Posplayr.

I have Excel and pdf reader/writer.

What mean "4:1 v.s. 4:2:1"?
Will likely stick with the mono shock that suits whatever swingarm I end up fitting. May go with GSXR or Bandit 1200 or RF900 front and rear ends if I can find any with the wheels and rotors and calipers etc at a fair price.

 

[posplayr]

You're a champion Posplayr.

I have Excel and pdf reader/writer.

What mean "4:1 v.s. 4:2:1"?
Will likely stick with the mono shock that suits whatever swingarm I end up fitting. May go with GSXR or Bandit 1200 or RF900 front and rear ends if I can find any with the wheels and rotors and calipers etc at a fair price.

I sent the Excel file.

4:1 vs. 4:2:1 would account for about 0.5 to 075" depending upon make. It is hard to get that any other way except drop triple and rear shocks.

 

[ukilme]

4:1 or 4;2;1 is the style of headers. Basically, it is 4 pipes down into one collector then to muffler or 4 pipes into 2 pipes then one collector then muffler.

Also, I would not match a cbr triple top with a gsxr bottom. Tried to keep them the same make model and year.

 

[Colin Green]

I sent the Excel file.

4:1 vs. 4:2:1 would account for about 0.5 to 075" depending upon make. It is hard to get that any other way except drop triple and rear shocks.

Thank you posplayr.
I have worked out what you have done with the formulas. very clever stuff

Makes it a lot easier to understand how any proposed changes will effect clearances. I haven't seen trig used in excel spreadsheet before. Have you thought about extending it to include formula that works out the finished rake, trail and weight ratio front to rear????

Thanks again for your tool of enlightenment.

 

[Colin Green]

4:1 or 4;2;1 is the style of headers. Basically, it is 4 pipes down into one collector then to muffler or 4 pipes into 2 pipes then one collector then muffler.

Also, I would not match a cbr triple top with a gsxr bottom. Tried to keep them the same make model and year.

Ah! The headers. I knew I'd seen it before. Cheers.

Hmmm? At first glance I didn't think it would be an issue (as long as the fork centers are the same) but the rake could change a lot if the fork positions in top and bottom clamps varied in relation to the steering head.

Gosh that could be a trick way to change the rake if that was the desired outcome, although having the forks at a different angle to that of the steering head would likely result in a very different feel... maybe like a crest or valley in the middle with either resistance or assistance when changing direction slightly.

Does anyone know if the fork distance forward or back of the steering head on the various triple clamps is different between GS's, GSX's, GSXR's and other bike makes?

Spreadsheet anyone???:lol:

 

[ukilme]

I can tell you that the CBR are offset is 25mm or 1 inch. I just measured it yesterday.

 

[Colin Green]

I can tell you that the CBR are offset is 25mm or 1 inch. I just measured it yesterday.

I checked the 1150's and they are roughly 35mm.

I wonder if anyone reading this thread has any knowledge of how the resultant changes of trail from switching bottom triples will effect the 1150 EF handling.

I can't be too sure about what I have been experiencing handling wise with Baz as he's pretty flogged out and the other EF even more so.

That said, in comparing handling differences between my 1100G and the EF I feel that while the EF is much lighter and more flickable into corners than the G, the G feels much easier to move around on and change lines mid corner than the EF, which feels more locked in and requires deliberate counter steering at times. I find I am much more comfortable in an overcooked corner on the G and can lean over a lot more.

I dare say that my poked suspension on the EF's is the problem and that simply upgrading them (cut fork springs and use spacers + gruntier Monster shock to rear) will make the world of difference.

I should probably wait and see how that works out for my fully faired EF before I leap into spending up large on upgrades for Baz (my slightly less poked naked EF). If the cheap fix works well enough I might save the money and put it into fixing the motor. However it is unlikely to be that easy so I best keep planing plan A

 

[Colin Green]

You drill the top clamp & add risers & normal bars not clipons. It's likely that you will still end up with some drop at the front unless you get a custom triple made up.

Dan

Thanks Dan,

I missed this post.

Makes sense that things get more complicated though that shouldn't be too difficult, I am starting to see the logic of a cu$tom triple.

 

[Turtleface]

Thanks Dan,

I missed this post.

Makes sense that things get more complicated though that shouldn't be too difficult, I am starting to see the logic of a cu$tom triple.

ABM makes some nice pieces. They run about 270-300 dollars (215 euros), and I'm sure shipping from Germany is expensive as well, but it's about as close to a perfect solution as you can get, I think. They have a top triple for a first gen GSXR, already adapted to work with a normal style bar versus clip-ons. Slick stuff, but you pay for it. Might be less expensive than having a completely custom item machined though.

 

[posplayr]

I checked the 1150's and they are roughly 35mm.

I wonder if anyone reading this thread has any knowledge of how the resultant changes of trail from switching bottom triples will effect the 1150 EF handling.

I can't be too sure about what I have been experiencing handling wise with Baz as he's pretty flogged out and the other EF even more so.

That said, in comparing handling differences between my 1100G and the EF I feel that while the EF is much lighter and more flickable into corners than the G, the G feels much easier to move around on and change lines mid corner than the EF, which feels more locked in and requires deliberate counter steering at times. I find I am much more comfortable in an overcooked corner on the G and can lean over a lot more.

I dare say that my poked suspension on the EF's is the problem and that simply upgrading them (cut fork springs and use spacers + gruntier Monster shock to rear) will make the world of difference.

I should probably wait and see how that works out for my fully faired EF before I leap into spending up large on upgrades for Baz (my slightly less poked naked EF). If the cheap fix works well enough I might save the money and put it into fixing the motor. However it is unlikely to be that easy so I best keep planing plan A

I think larger radial tires and better brakes are the decisive factors and not the offset.

 

[posplayr]

Thank you posplayr.
I have worked out what you have done with the formulas. very clever stuff

Makes it a lot easier to understand how any proposed changes will effect clearances. I haven't seen trig used in excel spreadsheet before. Have you thought about extending it to include formula that works out the finished rake, trail and weight ratio front to rear????

Thanks again for your tool of enlightenment.

I sent another spreadsheet I think I did the two above but not the weight shift.

 

[Colin Green]

I sent another spreadsheet I think I did the two above but not the weight shift.

You da Man!

Thanks Jim. I didn't realise that the first (and now second) spread sheets had multiple pages

 

[posplayr]

You da Man!

Thanks Jim. I didn't realise that the first (and now second) spread sheets had multiple pages

You should be able to see that the GSXR750G has more offset than the GSXR1100G (1.68" v.s. 1.47" respectively). On the other hand the GSXR1100G has the same trail as the GS1100ED (i.e. 116mm)

In swapping over the 1st Gen GSXR forks to a GS1100ED the trail is 120mm and 126mm respectively for 750/1100 triples (both use the GSXR1100 fork legs)

By adding about 1" of rear ride height the ED with GSXR 1100 triple is back to 120mm of trail which is where I am.

 

[Colin Green]

You should be able to see that the GSXR750G has more offset than the GSXR1100G (1.68" v.s. 1.47" respectively). On the other hand the GSXR1100G has the same trail as the GS1100ED (i.e. 116mm)

In swapping over the 1st Gen GSXR forks to a GS1100ED the trail is 120mm and 126mm respectively for 750/1100 triples (both use the GSXR1100 fork legs)

By adding about 1" of rear ride height the ED with GSXR 1100 triple is back to 120mm of trail which is where I am.

Cool. I see that. It looks like the head angle steepens up by almost 1 degree. That would make it a little faster to turn in... right?

 

[Colin Green]

ABM makes some nice pieces. They run about 270-300 dollars (215 euros), and I'm sure shipping from Germany is expensive as well, but it's about as close to a perfect solution as you can get, I think. They have a top triple for a first gen GSXR, already adapted to work with a normal style bar versus clip-ons. Slick stuff, but you pay for it. Might be less expensive than having a completely custom item machined though.

Thank you Turtleface. Will check them out.

Have just got a price for local supply of the following parts for the conversion.

I can supply the following GSXR1100 (95-99) front end parts as a package @$1300

Forks
Triple tree
Front wheel, axle, speedo drive
Clip on bars
Pair of front discs in very good order
Pair of 6 pot calipers in very good order
Front brake master cylinder (needs new lever) and brake lines
Front guard

I can also supply a back end package at $700 comprising of
Swingarm
rear wheel, axle, spacers
Rear sprocket
disc
caliper and bracket and caliper stay arm
Rear shock
Shock linkages

That's $2000 NZ (U$1376)

If I bought this stuff on ebay the shipping would cost half that, so unless I can buy all those bits for well less than U$1000 I may as well buy of this dude (when I can scratch that much together away from the prying eyes of SWMBO)

Still have to freshen the motor and that could cost me another $3000NZ. Without labour but including the $2000 that the bike owes me, that puts the price of the rebuild at about what it would cost for a good 8 to 10 year old Bandit 1200.

 

[posplayr]

Thank you Turtleface. Will check them out.

Have just got a price for local supply of the following parts for the conversion.

That's $2000 NZ (U$1376)

If I bought this stuff on ebay the shipping would cost half that, so unless I can buy all those bits for well less than U$1000 I may as well buy of this dude (when I can scratch that much together away from the prying eyes of SWMBO)

Still have to freshen the motor and that could cost me another $3000NZ. Without labour but including the $2000 that the bike owes me, that puts the price of the rebuild at about what it would cost for a good 8 to 10 year old Bandit 1200.

Price can add up but for that sub-total I would buy the bandit and part it out keeping what you need. A clean running engine is worth some money. Also look for a GSXR to part out it would be even cheaper

I have most of wheels,forks, brakes and it was not going to be near $2K