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Good Times
Guest
Sci, you're doing great work. Love the frame. Looks great and gives me something to look forward to! Having mine done the same way.
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Guest
Guest
Thanks GK & GT. Yeah, it sucks. Hopefully I can find a used one at a reasonable cost. Not happy about it but what you gonna do? I'm more concerned right now with getting that lower race out. It's in there good and tight and I don't have a good tool to get it out...
F
Flyboy
Guest
Sci, sorry to hear about the switch, maybe troll fleabay for a cheap one, or post up in the parts wanted section, I am sure someone here on the board will come to the rescue.
If you really are on a tight budget and want to have a go at fixing it, what you can do is drill a small 3mm hole in the knob and also in what is left of the switch in the housing, then cut a piece of 3mm brass/steel rod to a suitable length and use it as an internal splice to put the two back together, it will take the load of sliding the switch back and forth, secure in place with 2 mix epoxy, kinda like the bone in your leg.
Go and troll though the early pages of my rebuild thread. I described a tool I made to knock out the lower bearing race, yes it is not easy, but once it got a tool sorted, it took about 10min to knock out, basically it was just a piece of rod with a slight bend, and a nice big sturdy washer at the end, the edge of the washer is what actually rests on the lip of the bearing race, as you can't get the rod itself to it.
The washer tends to bend after a few blows and slips, just turn it around ad continue.
Here it is here http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=166147
If you really are on a tight budget and want to have a go at fixing it, what you can do is drill a small 3mm hole in the knob and also in what is left of the switch in the housing, then cut a piece of 3mm brass/steel rod to a suitable length and use it as an internal splice to put the two back together, it will take the load of sliding the switch back and forth, secure in place with 2 mix epoxy, kinda like the bone in your leg.
Go and troll though the early pages of my rebuild thread. I described a tool I made to knock out the lower bearing race, yes it is not easy, but once it got a tool sorted, it took about 10min to knock out, basically it was just a piece of rod with a slight bend, and a nice big sturdy washer at the end, the edge of the washer is what actually rests on the lip of the bearing race, as you can't get the rod itself to it.
The washer tends to bend after a few blows and slips, just turn it around ad continue.
Here it is here http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=166147
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Guest
Guest
Cool beans. Thanks FlyBoy! I will give that tool a try and let you know how it goes.
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Guest
Guest
Well, I owe FlyBoy some props. His makeshift tool worked like a charm. Bottom steering stem race came right out. You are da man FB!
Here's a pic of the tool I put together from FB's drawing. I highly recommend it. And like FB stated, I used the long skinny motor mount bolt with 3 washers on it. Enjoy.
Here's a pic of the tool I put together from FB's drawing. I highly recommend it. And like FB stated, I used the long skinny motor mount bolt with 3 washers on it. Enjoy.
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Flyboy
Guest
Glad it worked for you Sci, another step closer to get the front end bolted in there.
Soon you will be able to sit on the roller making revving noises.....vroooom vroooom
I am told this is what people do, of course I wouldn't know about that
Soon you will be able to sit on the roller making revving noises.....vroooom vroooom
I am told this is what people do, of course I wouldn't know about that
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Guest
Guest
Well, now that I got the bearings in (thanks again Flyboy!), I decided I needed to at least get the tree's painted so I can being putting the frame together. Since I don't have a heated garage, I figured I would wait to paint until the spring but that seems soooo far off and I want to get wrenching!
So I looked back through some of the member's threads and noticed some of the makeshift cardboard paint booths and decided that will work for me too! So, one cardboard box, a halogen shop light and some hanging wire later and we have some painted parts!
Feels good to get some paint down. This weekend I plan to get the swingarm on and the triple tree's. I'm pretty stoked for even this little progress.
So I looked back through some of the member's threads and noticed some of the makeshift cardboard paint booths and decided that will work for me too! So, one cardboard box, a halogen shop light and some hanging wire later and we have some painted parts!
Feels good to get some paint down. This weekend I plan to get the swingarm on and the triple tree's. I'm pretty stoked for even this little progress.
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brslk
Guest
Looks pretty good Sci! I'm digging the paint booth.
I can't imagine not having a heated garage.
At this rate you and GK will be finished before me.
Bruce.
I can't imagine not having a heated garage.
At this rate you and GK will be finished before me.
Bruce.
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GateKeeper
Guest
Looking good there Sci.....
if your spraying indoors, please make sure your wearing a mask, and you have good ventilation, or at least something drawing the paint fumes outside.....and or after spraying you open up the windows and doors to air out the place
if your spraying indoors, please make sure your wearing a mask, and you have good ventilation, or at least something drawing the paint fumes outside.....and or after spraying you open up the windows and doors to air out the place
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brslk
Guest
Why? I've been breathing paint fumes for years and well... umm... what were we talking about?
Bruce.
Bruce.
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GateKeeper
Guest
Exactly.......
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GateKeeper
Guest
Well, now that I got the bearings in (thanks again Flyboy!), I decided I needed to at least get the tree's painted so I can being putting the frame together. Since I don't have a heated garage, I figured I would wait to paint until the spring but that seems soooo far off and I want to get wrenching!
So I looked back through some of the member's threads and noticed some of the makeshift cardboard paint booths and decided that will work for me too! So, one cardboard box, a halogen shop light and some hanging wire later and we have some painted parts!
Feels good to get some paint down. This weekend I plan to get the swingarm on and the triple tree's. I'm pretty stoked for even this little progress.
I thought you weren't going to paint the top portion of the triple, the part that the handlebars attach too.
I painted my bottom, but am leaving the top polished.
like so
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Guest
Guest
Good one Bruce. I had a good laugh tonight!
Yeah, it's in the garage and after the first coat of primer, I realized I needed a mask GK. Why do you always tell me these things after the fact ;-)
I did see your post GK and thought about keeping mine upainted too but I really want to bring the bike back close to stock and that shiny top clamp I think would stick out so I went ahead and painted it. But I do like the look no doubt.
I'll post up some close ups tomorrow. So until then, I got some more paint to sniff...
Yeah, it's in the garage and after the first coat of primer, I realized I needed a mask GK. Why do you always tell me these things after the fact ;-)
I did see your post GK and thought about keeping mine upainted too but I really want to bring the bike back close to stock and that shiny top clamp I think would stick out so I went ahead and painted it. But I do like the look no doubt.
I'll post up some close ups tomorrow. So until then, I got some more paint to sniff...
R
Redneck
Guest
Sorry bout the switch Sci.. I would offer you my extra one but the are completely different styles wiring should be the same but the look will be different. I like the painted triple, I ride with no fairing and the sun would blind me having something that reflective in front of me.
Paul
Paul
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GateKeeper
Guest
Hey Sci,,,,I will try to be more proactive, must be the cold, can't read the mind well enough when it's cold.......LOL
@Redneck, I left mine unpainted, but it really don't matter, once it's on and all the other stuff gets bolted back on, it's not even seen, so no blinding bling....plus it was easier to not paint it....hehehehehe
@Redneck, I left mine unpainted, but it really don't matter, once it's on and all the other stuff gets bolted back on, it's not even seen, so no blinding bling....plus it was easier to not paint it....hehehehehe
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Guest
Guest
Ok quick question. Should I bake these or just let 'em sit for 7 days (as stated on the can)? I want the finish to be nice and tough since keys and stuff will be hitting the clamp. If you bake your stuff, what temp do you use and for how long?
Thanks.
Thanks.
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GateKeeper
Guest
250- 300 deg for about 1/2 hour to 45 min would be my guess, but if you have your bearings on, then don't bake....you could mess up the bearings, at least I would think so.
I did not bake anything, I will just let it sit, and some things I have painted have already been sitting for over two weeks now, other things like the front fork bottoms, kinda big to stick in an oven....
just my thoughts.......others might have better ideas...
I did not bake anything, I will just let it sit, and some things I have painted have already been sitting for over two weeks now, other things like the front fork bottoms, kinda big to stick in an oven....
just my thoughts.......others might have better ideas...
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Guest
Guest
Yeah GK, I am not going to do the lower clamp, just the upper. Not that the bearing wouldn't take it. More so because all the grease would run out all over the clamp. Yikes!
Interesting thought...I searched and searched the forums and while there are a lot of folks baking their parts, I couldn't find one mention of temp and time for rattle can paint!
Interesting thought...I searched and searched the forums and while there are a lot of folks baking their parts, I couldn't find one mention of temp and time for rattle can paint!
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GateKeeper
Guest
of everything I have read, baking the parts is so you get the paint to cure faster than having to wait for it to cure on it's own, a day or 2 or a week. Very little talk of it actually sticking any better to the metal,or any other benefit
you don't want it too hot, it will just melt the paint, you also don't want it to bake too fast, so a low heat and a longer time in the oven is better, than high heat and a quick time.
the reason I see for say not baking the paint on an engine, is as simple as it will actually bake itself on, as the engine will heat up anyways, so I see no need for baking.
I guess if your doing calipers and want to assemble quickly, then bake em, but again no need if your not in a rush
anyways just my thoughts on this, mostly based on what I have read on the interweb.....LOL
you don't want it too hot, it will just melt the paint, you also don't want it to bake too fast, so a low heat and a longer time in the oven is better, than high heat and a quick time.
the reason I see for say not baking the paint on an engine, is as simple as it will actually bake itself on, as the engine will heat up anyways, so I see no need for baking.
I guess if your doing calipers and want to assemble quickly, then bake em, but again no need if your not in a rush
anyways just my thoughts on this, mostly based on what I have read on the interweb.....LOL
R
Redneck
Guest
I am not sure if it was rusty bronco or who it was at the moment. The gentleman on the forum that rebuilds carbs for peeps. He mentioned that the baking process does a couple things. It allows you to not have to wait the extra days to let it cure properly and because of the baking process it often brings out a little bit better shine if you are using a gloss paint.
Paul
Paul
