Well I think that is a good choice perhaps the best choice. The matching front end for that rear wheel are much harder to get than Bandit parts and not as modern at than.
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Fitting 4.5" GSX-R wheel to 1150
- Thread starter GS1150Pilot
- Start date
Well I think that is a good choice perhaps the best choice. The matching front end for that rear wheel are much harder to get than Bandit parts and not as modern at than.
The guy I got the wheel from has complete front ends, but I don't want clip-ons.
you can add risers to the top clamp if you like.
also be aware that 1200 bandits have 1" bars.
wait!
i'm thinking.....
wait!
i'm thinking.....
Heh-heh-heh
ok bad info...my bandit had 1100G controls/M/C that used spacers to reduce to 7/8" bars.
carry on...lol
carry on...lol
G
Guest
Guest
That is how my 750 that has an almost identical swingarm as his, ended up. Like with any mod, it will depend on the parts he is using. I used a 3/8 offset.
Ok thanks for the clarification ; 3/8 " offset is not stock. On the other hand the move from what ever 1150 wheel he has to 4.5" is probably requiring less offset than most might expect. I would expect 3/8 to be too far outboard (to the left) causing chain to be too close to the frame.
I'm currently running a 3.5 with a 150 on it.
I'm running a 530. Mine's an '84-came with the narrow wheel.
Having gone around the block with the 1100 and bandit swingarms on various ways to measure the offsets there was no easy or really good way to determine offsets. ( with both katman and Tone)
if you stick with your stock 1150 swing arm, determine if it is symmetrical ; determine whether the end of each fork is centered about the bikes centerline. If it is then the spacing between the rim and swing arm should be symmetrical.(same distance each side).
1.) spacer the wheel so it is centered or accommodate whatever offset it has.
2.) using string method do a wheel alignment.
3.) LAST!!!offset the chain so a straight edge across the bare wheel runs parallel to the chain.
(****NOTE DO THESE MEASUREMENTS WITh A BARE REAR WHEEL)
If you have lasers and jigs and special expertise you might do better but you can also confuse yourself very easily. To be clear what is listed above is not the only way to do this but IMO is the most straightforward given the typical skill level and tools available to a layman to do this for a street bike.
you should be able to achieve 2-3mm of overall accuracy if not better which is plenty good enough.
i figure chain alignment that is within the side plate link thickness (about 0.1") over the distance between sprocket and counter sprocket is good enough. People certainly run worse to the detriment of chain longevity.
The picture below shows trying to determine where the swingarm bolt bosses lines up relative to a centered bare wheel in the swing arm. If it is offset then you have to add that offset to the rear wheel spacer to get the wheel on center of the bike. All GS's have the swing arm boss (bolt) on center in the frame so an offset in the swing arm has to be compensated by moving the wheel the opposite direction in the swingarm.
I'm guessing the 1150 swing arm is symmetrical like the 1100 swing arms. The 2002 Bandit swing arm is offset 3/16" (IIRC) but that one runs a 5.5" rear wheel. So it is probably just a simple matter of achieving equal spacing/symmetry within the swingarm for an 1150.
The final picture shows the end result of chain alignment. This is done best with a bare wheel but even having a low profiles tire is not going to be that far off. People that use lasers to do this a deluding themselves. That is becuase they are projecting a laser beam based on some kockeyed referces of a sproket which probably has runout. Assuming you wheel is straight (less than 0.025" runout) and aligned in the frame, then the chain should align to the wheel.
This being the case you can be assured that you are close enough.
You do this last obviously.
if you stick with your stock 1150 swing arm, determine if it is symmetrical ; determine whether the end of each fork is centered about the bikes centerline. If it is then the spacing between the rim and swing arm should be symmetrical.(same distance each side).
1.) spacer the wheel so it is centered or accommodate whatever offset it has.
2.) using string method do a wheel alignment.
3.) LAST!!!offset the chain so a straight edge across the bare wheel runs parallel to the chain.
(****NOTE DO THESE MEASUREMENTS WITh A BARE REAR WHEEL)
If you have lasers and jigs and special expertise you might do better but you can also confuse yourself very easily. To be clear what is listed above is not the only way to do this but IMO is the most straightforward given the typical skill level and tools available to a layman to do this for a street bike.
you should be able to achieve 2-3mm of overall accuracy if not better which is plenty good enough.
i figure chain alignment that is within the side plate link thickness (about 0.1") over the distance between sprocket and counter sprocket is good enough. People certainly run worse to the detriment of chain longevity.
The picture below shows trying to determine where the swingarm bolt bosses lines up relative to a centered bare wheel in the swing arm. If it is offset then you have to add that offset to the rear wheel spacer to get the wheel on center of the bike. All GS's have the swing arm boss (bolt) on center in the frame so an offset in the swing arm has to be compensated by moving the wheel the opposite direction in the swingarm.
I'm guessing the 1150 swing arm is symmetrical like the 1100 swing arms. The 2002 Bandit swing arm is offset 3/16" (IIRC) but that one runs a 5.5" rear wheel. So it is probably just a simple matter of achieving equal spacing/symmetry within the swingarm for an 1150.
The final picture shows the end result of chain alignment. This is done best with a bare wheel but even having a low profiles tire is not going to be that far off. People that use lasers to do this a deluding themselves. That is becuase they are projecting a laser beam based on some kockeyed referces of a sproket which probably has runout. Assuming you wheel is straight (less than 0.025" runout) and aligned in the frame, then the chain should align to the wheel.
This being the case you can be assured that you are close enough.
You do this last obviously.
Last edited:
You are a great help. Thank you very, very much.
This is about as close to step by step directions you will get. Tone has a write up but that is more about frame/Jig alignment which is where everything gets much more complicated.
I have access to the garage of a former race mechanic. I will make good use of it.
S
sharpy
Guest
This is how i set up my 4" gsxr1100 wheel. wheel is in centre and im sure i have to mod cushdrive or get a gs500 one and space front sprocket....
You guys are awesome. Though I'll be using the 4.5" wheel, this will come in handy, sharpy. Thank you.
Looks like the only 170 tire available is the Shinko. I've had fine experience with them on both my VMax and the 1150, but my question is, what tire works well as a front in 110/80-18? I'm familiar with the Metzler Lasertec, but I don't know whether there is a better combo ...
You need to look in the sport touring category.
I have been using an Avon AV55 on the front. I think Pirelli also has an 110/80-18.
http://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/avon-av55-storm-2-ultra-front-radial-tires
Roadsmart on the rear
http://store.58cycle.com/product_p/dunlop rdsmart r 170-60-18.htm
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dunlop-30RS...ash=item3d1a3057a1:g:SzAAAOSwHJhXM1Pt&vxp=mtr
You can also check ebay as it is odd ball just make sure to ask the seller for the date code. I have a 170-60-18 that is close to new but with an old 3 numeral date code 406. Pirelli MTR04. I can just drop it off if you want?
It looks like this.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/PIRELLI-Dra...ash=item4d43eaed99:g:pO8AAOSwubRXMMEg&vxp=mtr
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Jim, do you think that Dragon would be safe to ride?
I'll order an AV55 for the front.
I'll order an AV55 for the front.
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