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Float height with tubing: individual or together?

  • Thread starter Thread starter Guest
  • Start date Start date
G

Guest

Guest
Hey Forum,

I'm ready to put carbs back together and wanted to do the final float height check. So far, I'm mostly managing to spill gas all over the place and have to work on the method.

Can I just assemble all the carbs together and then check float heights, so gas doesn't have as many places to go? Or is that going to give me more problems because of the domino effect of adjacent carbs being screwed up?



Thanks!
 
Assembling the carbs on the rack, then checking fuel level, is what most people do.

Nice ingenuity on the test rig
 
Checking the fuel level with this method should be done with the carbs fitted and the engine running, at idle speed.
The way you are doing it will not give you an accurate reading.
Consult the factory service manual to see the correct procedure.
 
personally, I check float height of the carbs while off the bike. Could be either individually or while on the rack. Key is to slightly/slowly rotate the carb/rack until the float tang barely touches the valve plunger. Do not simply turn them upside down, even though it's easy and stable. When upside down the weight of the float will depress the plunger more than when used in normal operation, causing an inaccurate float height and wrong adjustments.

Maybe not as precise as while on a running bike, but much easier. Especially since setting tangs is usually a multi-step trial & error process.
 
I've always done it off the bike too. Carb set assembled. Good enough. And much better than just setting float height.
 
Both of my 1100E machines carburet cleanly and perfectly from idle through redline no matter gear selected. Float height set with caliper on float and carb body without gasket as recommended. To avoid any false reading due to needle spring compressing under float tang..... I use 1 new needle from the matched batch ordered and simply use a bit of epoxy to solidly secure that little spring. It will not compress. Said epoxied needle is only used for setting float height. I have verified the caliper settings are correct by using the fuel level clear tubing method.....All is within a frog hair of accuracy.
 
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After setting float height with calipers, checking actual fuel level is not hard. Doing that while the engine is running is a different story. I know the book says on the bike, engine running, but who does that?

I think I get the process. Install carbs, airbox, prime, start engine, then measure. If it's a little off disassemble and repeat. I'd have to forget about my ghetto hose clamp system to keep the clear tubing on the carbs. Now I'll need something that screws into the drain, a few 90 degree adapters, more clear tubing and a whole gallon of gas since it'll be spilling everywhere.

Think I'll stick to setting it on the saw horses out in the driveway.
 
Do on the bike with all carbs installed as carbs will be in the position they function at. You can check carb fuel level height one carb at a time. Won?t be any domino effect. With carbs installed, do you have enough room between carb/ space between bowl bottom and engine case to get to the inner carbs to the bowl connection for the test line? If space is an issue you may need a 90 degree fitting for your test line and bowl overflow port to attach to. Level wise, I shoot for about 2mm just under the main carb body for the fuel level. If off, bend float tang slightly and check again. To me, setting the fuel level holds more importance than setting the float level.
 
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