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Fork Oil Seal Replacement Tooling Questions

  • Thread starter Thread starter vur
  • Start date Start date
V

vur

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I need to change the left fork oil seal on my '84 GS750EF.

I have read through the Suzuki Service Manual and watched a video demo for fork seal replacement on another bike (basically the same process http://video.aol.com/video-detail/s...oil-seal-replacement--changing-oil/3177812670).

I have a few questions regarding my GS fork replacement regarding tooling.


1) Damper Rod Removal - Do I need to use the special "T-bar" tool with adapter to hold the damper rod from turning when removing the lower allen screw? Should the compression spring (hold spring down while turing low screw) be sufficent to hold the damper rod from turning?

2) Oil Seal and removal - Can I just use hot water or a torch (propane - minial heat) to heat the outer tube remove it by prying with a screw driver? Or is it necessary to use a special seal removal tool?

3) Outer Tube Anti-wear Metal removal (sits below Oil Seal) - Can this be removed easily without special seal removal tool?

4) Outer Tube Metal, Spacer and Oil Seal Installation - Can this be achieved using a piece of PCV piping without the specail seal installation tool?

Thanks,

VUR
 
vur said:
I need to change the left fork oil seal on my '84 GS750EF.

I have read through the Suzuki Service Manual and watched a video demo for fork seal replacement on another bike (basically the same process http://video.aol.com/video-detail/s...oil-seal-replacement--changing-oil/3177812670).

I have a few questions regarding my GS fork replacement regarding tooling.


1) Damper Rod Removal - Do I need to use the special "T-bar" tool with adapter to hold the damper rod from turning when removing the lower allen screw? Should the compression spring (hold spring down while turing low screw) be sufficent to hold the damper rod from turning? If you have a compressor and an impact wrench you can probably zap the allen bolt out easily. Suzuki used some pretty strong thread sealant on the screw and you have to break it loose. If you don't have an impact wrench, search the forum and you'll find some cheap home-made alternatives to the special tool.

2) Oil Seal and removal - Can I just use hot water or a torch (propane - minial heat) to heat the outer tube remove it by prying with a screw driver? Or is it necessary to use a special seal removal tool? The seal can be removed easily enough. I have never had to use any heat, although that would probably make it even easier.

3) Outer Tube Anti-wear Metal removal (sits below Oil Seal) - Can this be removed easily without special seal removal tool? Yes, this is also easily removed.

4) Outer Tube Metal, Spacer and Oil Seal Installation - Can this be achieved using a piece of PCV piping without the specail seal installation tool? Yep, I have done this many times.

While you have the forks apart you might want to install some Progressive Suspension or Race Tech fork springs. This is one of the best bang-for-the -buck improvements you can do to these bikes.
Click to expand...


Good luck,
Joe








 
Thanks for the reply. Yes I do have an impact - sounds like I should be all set...

VUR
 
I would add that if you're ordering OEM parts, add in a couple of the allen head damper rod bolts at the bottom of the fork legs along with their copper sealing washers. Should only be another 5 or 6 bucks.

The bolts are a special thread you can't just grab at the hardware store, and sometimes they are stuck in there harder than you think, or your allen bit slips or something, and you hate to put a boogered-up bolt back in to deal with in the future...
 
Occasionally the seals can become 'welded' in if they've been in place for years and I've had to resort to a blowtorch on a few occasions. If they are really stuck and you can burn off the rubber they pop out ok.
 
Trying to turn the damper rod bolt before stripping the forks sometimes helps with getting it unstuck, having the forks upside down with a mate putting some pressure on the leg helps even more but the can still be a real bitch

Opening up the forks as normal & holding the rod with a T-bar as per the manual can still be awkward but most will go with minimal struggle, on the ocasional one ive had to resort to drilling the head of the cap head bolt off & sorting it out later, not really a problem if you are carefull & ive never had a problem finding a replacement cap head bolt (common bike thread)

Seals can be done without stripping the forks if you are very carefull not to mark the leg where the seal sits or the stauntion,this is the old bike shop way of doing it but of course they will charge you for a full stip down & rebuild ;)

i didnt look at the seal removal tool as no such thing is needed if you do the job properly & strip the leg, once all the internals are out just grip one half in one hand & the other half in the other hand & tug this acts like a slide hammer & will bring all the bushes & the oil seal with it as it comes apart
 
Salty Monk told me a trick to hold those damper rods; find a spark plug socket with a hex on the outside bottom - the hex is the perfect size to fit into the damper rod hex. You just have to stick a long extension inside the socket, inserting the extension backwards onto the socket so the hex is on the bottom. Worked just fine when taking apart my 850 forks.

Good luck.
 
Yep, couldn't agree more. I made up my damper rod tool by using a spark plug socket welded to a long 1/2" rod then welded a 1/2" socket to that. Hey presto, just put a socket wrench on it and off she comes. Have used it numerous times for myself and others, and works a treat.
 
On mine, didn't have to weld anything. Just stick the socket on the end of a long extension. Done. Worked great.
 
Nessism said:
On mine, didn't have to weld anything. Just stick the socket on the end of a long extension. Done. Worked great.
Click to expand...
How long does the extension need to be. Is this thing a long way down inside the leg.
 
psyguy said:
i wonder if the broom handle works if you want to torque the bolt to the specified setting
Click to expand...

I always try the broom handle first - works sometimes / usually. You can torque up properly as the damper 'bites' and holds itself as soon as it starts to tighten.
 
Here's your tool for getting at the hex nut in the tube:

100_6362.jpg


100_6364.jpg


Add enough extensions to use a ratchet. Some spark plug sockets won't let you put the extension on backwards, but a Craftsman socket will.
 
Reasonably.... You can do it with a SEARS Craftsman socket that has the 19mm hex & about 1.5 foot of extension bars (one of those cheap $10 3 packs will do it).

You can also get a length of stud & lock 2 nuts together on it at both ends (or weld them) & use that. I forget what size stud you need to get near to a 19mm AF nut but it's probably something like 5/8"

Dan :)
 
I just use a 2 foot long piece of 1/2 threaded ready-rod with nuts double nutted on each end. If it's long enough you can just stick it in a vice which makes it easier to work on.

forktool-1.jpg
 
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