Fork seal replacement

[Guest]

1981 1100e fork seal replacement and Sonic spring install next on the list for me. Very first question of probably a few if I may. Oil drained and top cap loose but not removed. This bottom clicker must come off to expose a bottom bolt does it not? How should I go about that task without damaging it...does it pop off? I for sure dont want to force it without knowing for sure!

 

[Guest]

1981 1100e fork seal replacement and Sonic spring install next on the list for me. Very first question of probably a few if I may. Oil drained and top cap loose but not removed. This bottom clicker must come off to expose a bottom bolt does it not? How should I go about that task without damaging it...does it pop off? I for sure dont want to force it without knowing for sure!

As a second part to that question can I change out the seal without separating the fork bottom from the tube to save some hassle?

 

[LAB3]

As a second part to that question can I change out the seal without separating the fork bottom from the tube to save some hassle?

Cannot comment on your forks but can relate the following. Separating the tubes from the lowers on my '82 Virago 920 was a bit involved and someone on a Virago message board suggested being able to remove and replace the seal without separating the two. It required being very careful to not damage the fork tube, even the smallest nick or scratch would abrade the new seal and give it a spot for the air to leak out. Being a bit heavy handed, sure enough I nicked that tube and in the end had to replace it. You'd think that tube was harder material than it was but it only takes a small bit of an imperfection at 10psi for air to escape.

 

[Gorminrider]

^^^LAB3's is the best advice you'll get. Ruin your forks and you'll be very sad. Do what the shop manual says..carefully. if you get introuble reread the manual. They can be a little too concise and re-reading or online questions can help

If you MUST attack them the wrong way, at least work at the tops where the stanchions are seldom through the seals AND try to tuck in some thin plastic through the seals (from margarine tubs or the like) to protect the chrome as you gouge ......

 

[Guest]

I would rather disassemble the forks that way I can inspect and clean everything thoroughly. I just cant seem to find anything on the net or in the Clymers manual that I have on how to do so on these adjustable bottoms I have with the clicker adjustment knob on the bottom of the fork leg. Surely someone has done this style? There has to be a way to remove this knob to get at a bolt head of some type.

 

[Gorminrider]

ah, i see Droberts has the info you need-still:

found this on CMNSL could be the clue you need. I see the knob anyways. Otherwise get a different shop manual than clymers here at BikeCliff's Website.
I didn't see the knob but there are addnedums per model...you probably want the 80-83 GS1100-LT-LX etc...one. Yours would be the "EX" I suppose

https://www.cmsnl.com/suzuki-gs1100e-1981-x-usa-e03_model34166/partslist/BLCK0021.html

 

[Guest]

Thank you soooooo much for this info! Exactly what I have been searching for, time to get busy!!!

 

[Guest]

https://racetech.com/page/title/DRod 6-2 KYB 37mm I think you will find exactly the information you are looking for.

PS.... Do not be concerned re my low LoL post count.....Purged it a few times since October 2006

I would have never found this, explains to a T!

 

[bobgroger]

One method is to drain the oil, then use an air nozzle applied to the air fitting at the top of the fork. Mine took about 5 minutes at 100PSI to pop out. There was a HUGE mess because I did not drain the oil, hence the warning.

 

[Guest]

One method is to drain the oil, then use an air nozzle applied to the air fitting at the top of the fork. Mine took about 5 minutes at 100PSI to pop out. There was a HUGE mess because I did not drain the oil, hence the warning.

I have read about that method here but mine have no shrader valves on the top caps. I have one done and tackling the other now. I figured I would do both seals and dust caps then the Sonic spring install on both. So far the biggest fight was that little damn snap ring going back on under the adjustment cap but it finally submitted. Have the other in a pb blaster bath while I eat lunch.

 

[bobgroger]

You might be able to use the fluid drain hole with a rubber tip blow gun?

 

[LAB3]

Mentioned the Virago earlier, another method I read on the Venture forum but didn't try was leaving the legs sealed with air in them and using a ratchet strap to compress the unit and blow the seal that way.

 

[Rijko]

i usually take the fork apart, and clean the lower leg of oil.
Use a small gas burner to heat up the oil seal until the inside
of the rubber starts turning red and it starts smoking.
When it's *that* hot, if it does not fall out when you hold the
leg upside down, the tiniest of screwdrivers will pop it out.
What i like about this method is no force is used,
no bent screwdrivers or damaged fork legs.
Even if that damage will be hidden by the dust covers.

Just takes a few minutes more than brute force.

 

[Guest]

i usually take the fork apart, and clean the lower leg of oil.
Use a small gas burner to heat up the oil seal until the inside
of the rubber starts turning red and it starts smoking.
When it's *that* hot, if it does not fall out when you hold the
leg upside down, the tiniest of screwdrivers will pop it out.
What i like about this method is no force is used,
no bent screwdrivers or damaged fork legs.
Even if that damage will be hidden by the dust covers.

Just takes a few minutes more than brute force.

Now that's one I have not heard but would like to try! I just finished not forks minus the fork oil. Taken apart, new seals, retaining clips, dust covers, Sonic springs and spacers as well as some time taking apart the fork caps with preload adjuster screws and cleaning the internals on them as they were quite gummed up and not free moving....I figured I would mount the forks on the bike then pull caps and springs to add oil at that time. I dont see any other way to do it with the air crossover do hickey in the top tubes and the holes in each top tube that the set screw and oring go into when mounted. Am I missing something here???
Anyhow thanks so much for the info, ideas and opinions. I value all of them on this new to me type of restore, little different than simple 2 stroke big bore dirtbikes I am obsessed with.
I am on to the next step, of which I am not sure yet what that should be. Mabey tomorrow I tackle the rebuilding of the brake system as I have the kits, pads and new SS brake lines to do it. Then perhaps I will get into replacing the engine side covers I have polished, pulling the oil pan to clean the strainer, installing the APE clutch hub nut, cables, dipped and cleaned carbs with new orings etc etc etc. I should be able to roll into each thing as I have everything bought for this project minus any surprises.
I will have questions but also I will use the search function as I do nightly pouring over all the info here....coming along a little at a time it is. GREAT FUN!