Front Fork Tutorial?

[nutz4spd]

I was wondering if someone has created a step-by-step guide on rebuilding the front forks on the GS's. I've never done it and mine needs it done.

 

[RustyTank]

I was wondering if someone has created a step-by-step guide on rebuilding the front forks on the GS's. I've never done it and mine needs it done.

Front Forks? Are there rear forks that I don't know about??? :-s
I'm just razzin ya. I imagine most people on here would point you in the direction of your shop manual.
I can relate though, I love a good tutorial. Have you checked Youtube? I just did a search, "how to rebuild GS motorcycle forks", and found a bunch of vids related to the subject.

 

[Rich82GS750TZ]

If you find the factory service manual (available for download from BikeCliff's Website, linked in my signature) insufficient, you can take a look at this supplement. It may apply to your bike, not exactly sure. When I rebuilt mine, I used both as my guide, along with my Clymer's manual, and asked for advice on the forum if I got really stuck on something.

Before you ask. OEM fork seals only, and 10W Fork Oil is fine for most people.

 

[salty_monk]

You can usually just get away with new oil seals & switching out the oil... of course better springs from Sonic or Progressive help a lot. Emulators too if you're going for the full upgrade...

From memory oil height should be about 140mm when refilling.

 

[Wingsconsin]

OPINION WARNING ***

Buy the Motion Pro seal driver is the best advice I can give you -
I have done forks on several bikes now and this one thing has saved me from re-doing them -
It is not easy for a novice to get a good seal by using PVC or something else to drive and seat the new seals

Do research - Check You Tube - many forks share common parts and designs so you may learn something that could help once you get going.

 

[dorkburger]

A couple of my experiences.

https://www.thegsresources.com/_for...3-First-foray-into-fork-rebuilding&highlight=

https://oldskoolsuzuki.info/forums/topic/7665-cartridge-emulator-install/?tab=comments#comment-86993

 

[chris]

Hi, one thing not mentioned in the manual is that it is usually easier to crack loose the fork cap and damper rod bolt when the forks are still on the bike with weight on the front wheel . Just don't use forget to loosen the fork top triple clamp bolts before you crack the fork cap. I have also use old fork seals with small section cut out [about 2mm] so as to reduce the O.D, to drive in the new seals.

 

[Wingsconsin]

https://www.motionpro.com/c/ringer-fork-seal-drivers

Not sure which size your bike needs --

I own 2 sets -- one for my GS850GL and one for my GL1800 Goldwing -

Best money I ever spent

 

[cowboyup3371]

Hi, one thing not mentioned in the manual is that it is usually easier to crack loose the fork cap and damper rod bolt when the forks are still on the bike with weight on the front wheel . Just don't use forget to loosen the fork top triple clamp bolts before you crack the fork cap. I have also use old fork seals with small section cut out [about 2mm] so as to reduce the O.D, to drive in the new seals.

Or you can put it in a bench vise with the spring still in and top on then open it up. Also a powered impact driver will make short work of it

 

[fastbysuzuki]

Have a look here for fork strip info
http://members.dslextreme.com/users/cbsaunders/gs/Fork_Seal_Replacement_GS850GT.pdf

 

[oldGSfan]

My .02 from experience recently on my '82 GS1100E - the dampener rod bolt was the only tricky thing as others mentioned. I couldn't seem to verify if mine could be secured from the inside by the method others suggest in many threads on this forum

Example: Post #4: https://www.thegsresources.com/_for...8-GS1000E-front-fork-issue&highlight=DAMPENER
A 17mm nut into the dampener rod. Many people use a piece of allthread and 4 nuts to do this

I ended up buying the 'tool' which is shown here: https://www.partzilla.com/product/suzuki/09940-34561 because I just couldn't see down in there to know for sure whether a 17mm nut would fit, and I didn't want to guess or screw it up. Well of course when I took it apart (impact driver helped) I saw the 17mm method would fit, and be much more secure.

It was a waste of $20 - even though it worked OK, it just jams into the bottom (I had to borrow a loloooong 3/8 extension).

 

[Rich82GS750TZ]

Or you could find an old broken broom handle, whittled to look the part of that $20 part. Some damper rods (like mine) have a round hole, and no all-thread/nuts, nor upside-down spark plug socket on yay extensions will bite in this round recess.

 

[oldGSfan]

I think that would have just shredded given how stubborn mine were - I actually tried grinding down a fire poker which turned out to be very similar to the part I bought. Wife has plenty of spare broom handles but she needs for riding .

 

[nutz4spd]

Well, I got the forks off and the tubes separated. After talking with the guys at the dealer (they were the cheapest for OEM seals) I decided I didn't need to completely disassemble the forks. The main reason for doing this is I had a leaking seal and dust cover so for now, I'm leaving the lower portion alone. Especially since it only has just under 11,000 miles on it.

 

[Rich82GS750TZ]

With the tube apart, not much left to completely disassemble. Now is the best time to clean everything. There is also no better opportunity to polish the lower fork tubes.

 

[cowboyup3371]

And to put better springs in there