Front wheel bearings removal

[Guest]

Trying to remove the front wheel bearings on my 81 gs1100e so I can install new ones and MAN are they fighting me. The rears came out quick fast and in a hurry with a punch from the opposite side getting just enough of an angle bite on the inner race and pop shes out.
Now the front I have tried either side in the same fashion with every shape punch I have filing this one and that one for an angle here or a flat tip there hoping to get a good enough grab to get it moving. Got frustrated enough to grind down a nut enough to fit it in the inner race and tacked it in with the welder and threaded a bolt into it from the opposite side only to have the welds pop off 2 different times without nudging the bearing. I should add I also put a little heat around the outside of the hub to try to help it move with the best taps I could get with a drift without it slipping off every knock...
Had to walk away for a spell and dwell on it. Any ideas or tips? I imagine theres a better tool for the job but this is the avenue that always works for me but this ones a hoo hoo.

 

[LAB3]

I've never had that specific problem but one thing that most would do with a stuck fastener is spray some PB Blaster or similar product in there and let it sit awhile. As to heat you already have the rubber seals out (I'm assuming) to get to the bearing and I can't think of anything else in there that could burn. The hub and wheel itself though is aluminum or some alloy, I'd be leery of getting it TOO hot.

 

[Guest]

Yea I was careful with the heat and a little Leary myself. I did saturate it with penetrating fluid early on and again several times. In fact its marinating now.
I cant believe it didnt burdge one bit from what I could get on it.

 

[Sandy]

One thing is to make sure you have the rim on something very solid. Like having it supported by a block of wood as near the center of the rim as possible on a concrete floor so every bit of energy from the blow is transfered to the bearing. Bloody thing should come out.

 

[fbody_mike]

The space between the internal spacer and the bearings may be very small and since your not reusing the bearings you can try this. With the wheel supported well like written above, take and give the inner race of one of the bearings are really had hit from the outside. This will cause the inner spacer to move down some. Usually one bearing is driven into the hub a little further than the other so that you don't preload the bearings by sandwiching the inner spacer. Identify which bearing is driven in further and hit that one from the outside, that way you don't make a tight situation worse. Hopefully there is enough wear on those bearings that you can get some movement and get some more gap in that inner spacer so that way your drift or punch doesn't slip off.

Other tips. File the end of the punch flat so that you can a sharp edge to hit the inner bearing with. Also, get a bigger hammer.

The above has worked for me in the past.

 

[Guest]

I'm going to try the inner race hit from the outside trick and see if I can make that work....thank you.
I know every little bit of movement will give me a better bite with space between the inner space and bearing. I'm actually really surprised its fitting me this hard. She'll eventually come out I'm sure.
So I guess before I reinstall the new bearings I had better ask if there are special steps other than installing one side till it bottoms, installing the inner spacer then seating the other bearing.....you mention not pre loading the bearings against the inner spacer?

 

[Guest]

Well I went down to the local bearing house and picked up a longer heavier punch than any I currently had and was able to get just enough of a bite on the inner race to do the job... earnings out of fro t and rear wheels and getting ready to tackle the swing arm now. All bearings are in the freezer waiting.
Again if theres more specific directions on the front wheel bearing install then just seating them with the inner spacer installed I'm all ears.

 

[fbody_mike]

Just seat the first one by driving it down till it stops, install the spacer, then the other side, drive it in and stop before you hit bottom checking the wiggle on the spacer. I like to set the last bearing so that the spacer just touches the bearing. If you go to far you will feel a lot of resistance in the new bearings because it is being preloaded by the inner spacer.
Make sure to really clean and deburr the surfaces of the hub and bearing and it will go in a bit better too. Then grease up the axle and torque to spec.

Glad to hear you got the old ones out, sometimes it really is about having the right tools.

 

[Rijko]

i like to install the bearing on the speedo drive side first.

Had an issue once, started with the opposite side and found
the speedo drive tabs were pushing against the bearing.
Only found that out after mounting the wheel and torquing the
axle - the wheel would not spin as freely as it should.

Installing the speedo drive side bearing first, like Mike said
drive it in all the way, makes sure the speedo drive tabs
have the space they need to stay clear of the bearing.

 

[LAB3]

In order to evenly drive in bearings in general I use a big bolt with a couple of nuts and a few washers on it. Cover the threads with some heavy tape to keep them from scoring the inner race and hit the head, keeps the force even around the bearing while driving.

 

[Rijko]

Also, get a bigger hammer.

The above has worked for me in the past.

Worked for me, too :biggrin:

 

[cowboyup3371]

Putting your new bearings in the freezer for a few hours first will make them easier to install

 

[Guest]

Thanks for all the input fellas, I now have all the new bearings/seals installed in both wheels and the swingarm. Tomorrow will be the new tubes and new Avon RoadRiders then starting the rebuild of the front forks with the new oem seals, clips, dust seals and new Sonic Springs. It is very nice having all my new parts here already so I can smoothly move from one thing to the next. I'll have this 1100e on the road soon I hope.
The new CarbTune sync tool is due here tomorrow, unless I get a surprise I should have everything compiled to get this bike complete!

 

[fbody_mike]

You will really like the CarbTune, I recently bought one when Brexit really killed the pound, and I wish I would have bought one earlier than that.

 

[allojohn]

CarbTune=Priceless.

 

[Guest]

I've never sync'd carbs before so this will be new to me, I'm a dirtbike guy to be honest but this 1100 will go along with the 75' Honda 400 super sport I picked up 2 years ago...not meaning to jump all over here. I will have other threads to start Im sure as I mounted up the new Avon RoadRiders today and next Im going to tackle rebuilding the forks. You guys are a way helpful source to have access to.

 

[LAB3]

Good thing I paid attention to this thread. After thinking about it, the last time I greased my stem bearings was two years ago and I've covered 25k miles since. Tore into it this morning and sure enough, the bottom race had "ruts" in it from the rollers and the top bearing has a bit more slop in it than I feel comfortable with. New set on the way!

 

[Grimly]

Good thing I paid attention to this thread. After thinking about it, the last time I greased my stem bearings was two years ago and I've covered 25k miles since. Tore into it this morning and sure enough, the bottom race had "ruts" in it from the rollers and the top bearing has a bit more slop in it than I feel comfortable with. New set on the way!

Yep, steering head bearings crap out early if you ride a lot of badly maintained roads. 25K isn't entirely unusual, whereas a bike that does the vast majority of its miles on freeways / motorways / autobahns might need them replaced at 80 or 100K.
I replaced mine about 15K miles ago and I suspect they're on the way out already - but the extra weight of fairing, etc doesn't help.