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FZ1 Rod Bearings

ddaniels

ddaniels

Forum Sage
As some know I have removed the engine from the FZ1 to investigate the lower crankcase trying to diagnose my engine noises. I have found the the bottom rod cap and bolts, as well as the surrounding area od the number 3 piston rod is a burnt black color. The other 3 are a normal clean appearance. To any who are familiar with rod bearing issues does this sound like a blown rod bearing?
 
The huge majority of failures like that trace to oil starvation. There is a very good chance that the crank is scored on that journal. Hopefully you can find some good, but cheap, parts to fix it up.
 
Nessism said:
The huge majority of failures like that trace to oil starvation. There is a very good chance that the crank is scored on that journal. Hopefully you can find some good, but cheap, parts to fix it up.
Click to expand...
That's what I'm afraid of but hoping against. Thanks
 
My first question - are there any metal particles on the oil pump pickup screen ?
If so, then yes, you've done a rod bearing for sure. Until you split the crank you don't know what you're dealing with.

I've done several of this family of engines - FZR1000 based range. The early ones had a well known problem of stretching the rod small ends but later rods don't do this.
None of them have what I'd call well finished cranks. When you do split the crank, look at the edges of the oil holes at the crank surface. Frequently they've been left sharp.
This sharp edge peels the oil film off the bearing leading to early failure.

If you buy a used crank, I'd prep it properly, radius the oil hole edges and get it linished by an engine shop.
Rod bolts can be reused - they're not torqued to yeild point. If the shells look good, reuse them too.
 
GregT said:
My first question - are there any metal particles on the oil pump pickup screen ?
If so, then yes, you've done a rod bearing for sure. Until you split the crank you don't know what you're dealing with.

I've done several of this family of engines - FZR1000 based range. The early ones had a well known problem of stretching the rod small ends but later rods don't do this.
None of them have what I'd call well finished cranks. When you do split the crank, look at the edges of the oil holes at the crank surface. Frequently they've been left sharp.
This sharp edge peels the oil film off the bearing leading to early failure.

If you buy a used crank, I'd prep it properly, radius the oil hole edges and get it linished by an engine shop.
Rod bolts can be reused - they're not torqued to yeild point. If the shells look good, reuse them too.
Click to expand...

Thank you. My problem originated when I installed the cam chain tensioner incorrectly, not realizing they do not retract under spring load, so it was waaaaay too tight. It ended up causing the cam chain to grind away at the intake side chain guide leaving ground up black plastic all over everywhere around the top of the chain opening at the top of the head. I cleaned it all out, then took off the oil pan and found it all in there too, as well as clogged up the pickup screen. I cleaned it all out there too, but I suspect it got into the oil ports supplying the rod bearings and blocked that one out. I did find several crank shafts for sale on ebay in case I need to get another. I'm currently waiting a some tools to be able to remove the alternator rotor so I can split the crankcase and get to it.
 
That thing really got hot. Before pulling the cap off, I could grab it and rattle it back and forth, hense my mysterious engine rattle. One half of the bearing was rotated halfway overlapping the other half.
20201011_155528(1).jpg
 
Last edited:
What's the plan? New rod & main bearings? Might want to fully disassemble and blow compressed air through the oil passages to make sure there's no residual metal/plastic bits hiding out in there. Also maybe disassemble and clean the oil pump to ensure no detritus is lurking there as well.
 
80GS1000 said:
What's the plan? New rod & main bearings? Might want to fully disassemble and blow compressed air through the oil passages to make sure there's no residual metal/plastic bits hiding out in there. Also maybe disassemble and clean the oil pump to ensure no detritus is lurking there as well.
Click to expand...

Gonna need at least one new/used rod too.
 
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