Get the real SH775

[wymple]

https://youtu.be/TYxtCC330Xg

 

[wymple]

Almost everything found on ebay is fake, including some over a hundred dollars.

 

[Nessism]

A year or so back you could get a brand new SH775 straight from a Polaris dealership for about $75 shipped. Now they are double that. Best bet now is to look for a used unit by searching ebay for "polaris rzr regulator" and then looking for a photograph showing the top edge where SH775... is printed. We have many threads here mentioning this but another can't hurt.

 

[Burque73]

Any idea what the different letters mean in say the SH775BA? Here it is next to the stock unit off of my 83 850.



I installed this unit a while back and it works fine by the way. Purchased used from ebay for around fify bucks.

 

[Nessism]

Any idea what the different letters mean in say the SH775BA?

I don't know the answer. There are AA units out there too.

 

[Burque73]

Possibly this,
AA- absolutely adequate
BA- beyond adequate

 

[hannibal]

My conclusion is that the AA is OEM for Seadoo (part #710001103) while the BA is OEM for Polaris (part #4012941).

 

[Boriqua]

So I am guessing this is DooDoo

https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Voltag...ash=item25d8610199:g:ZPQAAOSw5dlaIDu-&vxp=mtr

 

[uk gs nut]

That looks a fake

 

[2BRacing]

+1 to it not being genuine SH775.

One of the distinguishing features on a genuine SH775 is the round casting portions on some of the the cooling fins, a little way in from the edge, like in the photo below:

 

[Steve]

So I am guessing this is DooDoo

https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Voltag...ash=item25d8610199:g:ZPQAAOSw5dlaIDu-&vxp=mtr

Yep. Look down the listing, you will see this:

[h=2]Item specifics[/h][TABLE="width: 100%"]
[TR]
[TD="class: attrLabels"]Condition:[/TD]
[TD="width: 50.0%"]New[/TD]
[TD="class: attrLabels"]Brand:[/TD]
[TD="width: 50.0%"][h=2]Total Power Parts[/h][/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD="class: attrLabels"]Part:[/TD]
[TD="width: 50.0%"]RECTIFIER / REGULATOR[/TD]
[TD="class: attrLabels"]Manufacturer Part Number:[/TD]
[TD="width: 50.0%"][h=2]APO6016[/h][/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD="class: attrLabels"]Unit Type:[/TD]
[TD="width: 50.0%"]Part[/TD]
[TD="class: attrLabels"]Warranty:[/TD]
[TD="width: 50.0%"]1 Year[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD="class: attrLabels"]Voltage:[/TD]
[TD="width: 50.0%"]12
[/TD]
[/TR]
[/TABLE]

Note the different manufacturer and part number. You have to ignore the part that says "New regulator for ..." and also "Replaces ...". You need to see the Polaris (or SeaDoo) part numbers or a picture of the last fin that shows and actual "SH775" on it.

Another clue would be looking through the listing and seeing "Condition: New" on a rather inexpensive item (around $20), especially if the country of origin is "China".

.

 

[kochic]

I use the R/R off a yamaha road warrior on my 1000, after 7 years everything is still working good.
They are cheaper used than one off a R1 and its the same part.around 25$.
https://www.partzilla.com/product/yamaha/5JW-81960-00-00
Marc

 

[Steve]

I use the R/R off a yamaha road warrior on my 1000, after 7 years everything is still working good.

Yes, there are MANY different R/R units that will work. All of the fake ones discussed above will also work. You know what? Even the STOCK R/R works. The problems is that they are all still the older "shunt" style units, while the Polaris (and SeaDoo) units are "series" style, which will work better.

.

 

[bobgroger]

+1 to it not being genuine SH775.

One of the distinguishing features on a genuine SH775 is the round casting portions on some of the the cooling fins, a little way in from the edge, like in the photo below:

Many of the fakes faithfully reproduce that: https://www.ebay.com/p/Voltage-Regu...-800-900-UTV-ATV/10011079596?iid=122855136039

If it sounds too good to be true, it is. You can buy "Authentic Microsoft Office 2016" for 7 bucks too when I have to pay $200 from an authorized distributor. Will it work? Probably. Until you are 500 miles from nowhere and your battery is dead.

 

[Downs]

I picked up my used unit from EBAY off of a crashed Polaris SxS. Came in a regular ol box and when I opened it up you could tell it was a used unit. Oxidation on the fins and some cobwebs lol.

 

[eil]

When buying an R/R whether used or new, make sure the picture shows the SH775AA or BA as shown in comment #10. Otherwise, it's a knock-off or fake.

Glad I picked up a spare back when they were relatively cheap.

 

[alke46]

Yes, there are MANY different R/R units that will work. All of the fake ones discussed above will also work. You know what? Even the STOCK R/R works. The problems is that they are all still the older "shunt" style units, while the Polaris (and SeaDoo) units are "series" style, which will work better.

.

Steve, what about those R/R units that forum member Duaneage was selling in the past? Were they shunt or series style? I believe he was getting them from Honda motorcycles.

 

[Steve]

Those were shunt-style R/Rs. Decidedly better than a stock Suzuki unit, but still shunt.

The Honda units were better for at least two reasons: 1. better heat sink, 2. most of them had a "sense" wire that would modify the output a bit, based on the voltage it was sensing.

They were a good choice at the time (I even bought a couple), but the SH775 is a much better unit. If you can find a genuine unit on eBay, it's usually not that much more money.

Just did a quick look, there is one right now for $26. Click HERE. The next one I would trust is $40.

.

 

[wymple]

I jumped on the 1st one you posted. Thanks.

 

[alke46]

Guess I better start watching for one then. I purchased the one from Duaneage back in '09 so who knows how much longer I can get by. Working great so far.