Getting an old rebuild running again

[gearhead13]

Degreeing the cams. Both measure 230 Deg @0.50"
Intake valve lift is almost .300" ex is .280"
I am going for 106 in and 108 ex centers.
The manual says the rotor is supposed to be torqued to 115-120 lb/ft
How am I supposed to hold the crank and engine at that amount

 

[cyclefvr2]

Degreeing the cams. Both measure 230 Deg @0.50"
Intake valve lift is almost .300" ex is .280"
I am going for 106 in and 108 ex centers.
The manual says the rotor is supposed to be torqued to 115-120 lb/ft
How am I supposed to hold the crank and engine at that amount

you can use a impact on a different bolt, on a seperate piece of steel/ then check it with a torq wrench, then use the impact on it at what ever setting it is on

or put the bike in gear have someone hold the brakes?

i dont want you to stick anything in the rotor teeth,"if you brake something, dont want ya mad at me

 

[gearhead13]

you can use a impact on a different bolt, on a seperate piece of steel/ then check it with a torq wrench, then use the impact on it at what ever setting it is on

or put the bike in gear have someone hold the brakes?

i dont want you to stick anything in the rotor teeth,"if you brake something, dont want ya mad at me

The engine is not in the bike now. So, maybe I will torque it as much as I can now, then finish the torque once the engine is in the bike. But, jeez 120 lbx/ft could almost lift the bike off the ground. Does it REALLY need 120 lbs??
If I got mad at you then it would be my own fault for not using my own head

 

[gearhead13]

Got the engine in today, tomorrow hope to get it running
Here is the 750/816cc out:

getting ready to muscle it in:

Engine in, went in fairly easy:

 

[67fire]

That engine sure looks purdy! :clap:

Eric

 

[Guest]

Hey, you use the same cheap a$$ jack as I do

 

[gearhead13]

Hey, you use the same cheap a$$ jack as I do

LOL , ya, mine is a Canadian Tire special, had it for a while, leaves puddles of hydraulic fluid on the ground She works fine mostly, unless you want it to hold something up for longer than 15 minutes
I was able to actually find NGK D8EA non resistor plugs there today
The bike shop said they couldnt get them

 

[doctorgonzo]

Hey, you use the same cheap a$$ jack as I do

Same cheap a** jack I have too. A lift is SO in my future.

 

[gearhead13]

Got it running tonight
Sounds good, but it was late so I only ran it for a minute or two.
Strange thing, when I put oil in it, I pulled the plugs and flipped it over for a while to maybe get oil circulating, oil light never went off, didnt want to drain the battery, so I threw the plugs in and fired it up, and the oil light went out, but now it wont turn on
I pulled the oil gallery plug next to the ignitor cover and turned it over and oil came flying out, so it has oil pressure. Do these oil pressure switches sometimes get stuck? Maybe that rotten red crap they used got in there or something, or maybe just 24 years of sitting

 

[Nessism]

The oil pressure sensor is just a metal plunger with a spring pushing on it. When the engine is off the plunger caps off the main oil feed port thus completing an electrical ground path. When the oil pressure pushed the plunger out of the way the ground circuit is interupted and the light goes off. You can test the circuit by grounding the electrical wire going to the sensor - it it lights up the bulb, the circuit is working and something must be holding the sensor off the seat.

 

[Guest]

I had a problem with mine on the like new ED motor I installed recently. It had not been run for awhile. I had to clean the spot on the cases where the contact is made with the sensor plunger with 200 grit sandpaper. A Ed said just take the wire that goes on the sensor and ground it to something. The light should come on.

 

[gearhead13]

Went for a ride tonight in the rain, runs decent after some jetting changes. Major clutch rattle thoough

 

[67fire]

She's a beauty!
Once you iron out the little "bugs" it will be a screamer!

Eric

 

[gearhead13]

She's a beauty!
Once you iron out the little "bugs" it will be a screamer!

Eric

Thanks.
I guess my first thing will be rebuilding the clutch hub

 

[Nessism]

Thanks.
I guess my first thing will be rebuilding the clutch hub

I followed this technique on my 1000 and it seems to have worked... http://www.theflyingbanana.com/clutchhub.htm

 

[Guest]

Thanks.
I guess my first thing will be rebuilding the clutch hub

Did you check the clutch hub nut?

 

[posplayr]

Did you check the clutch hub nut?

Get a gorilla nut, and a reinforced basket if you can.

 

[jetta90]

Sorry gearhead13 ............... I must have missed your response and query earlier as you started up this thread. I'm a BC guy as well but in the interior.............West Kelowna, BC to be exact.

 

[gearhead13]

I pulled the clutch right out, to inspect the parts and the plates, (and so I could see if the crank was welded) I noticed that the cush springs were loose. Strange, but the springs on that hub all had washers with the springs, factory like. The heavy ones were loose, the others were tight.
The noise isnt as bad now that I have the jetting closer, but still has to be addressed. When I can I will get the clutch upgrade parts from APE and have it welded locally. I cant really afford the complete Gorilla assembly, too pricey (more than what I paid for the parts bike).
I put in #130 mikuni mains as opposed to the #138 dj mains. I had to set the needle to the next from richest position for it to run properly. I am also going to have to go with 47.5 pilots as I have the mixture screws at 3 1/2 turns and it still pops on decel. I think I am going to put in 137.5 mains when I have the bowls off to replace the pilots, to be on the safe side.
EDIT: The gorilla upgrade is a not bad price, I was thinking of the billet one. I'd rather get the kit anyway instead of shipping my hub all the way down to them.

 

[Guest]

My buddy races for APE and I head over there all the time. I can pick one up for you if you'd like.
138 DJ and 130 Mikuni are about the same jet. Remember the needle and the main affect each other so dial in the main first and then the needle.
I'm running a 137.5 on my ED motor with pods and a pipe and it's perfect. The needle is 3 notches from the bottom.