GR650 Tempter chain and sprocket questions

[Guest]

Hi All,
I am currently working on getting a 1983 GR650 Tempter up and running again. But the chain is pretty loose and bunching as you turn the rear tire. Also, the chain adjusters are pretty much at the end of their adjustments.

My questions are this: The OEM chain for this bike is a 530 104 link, NON o-ring chain. Will a 530 o-ring chain fit just fine on OEM sprockets?

And secondly: I am going to replace the sprockets too. This bike was configured from the factory for low end torque for running around city traffic, not noted for top end speed. This lends itself to some good vibrations around 60-65 mph. To offset these vibrations, a lot of people up the front sprocket from 15 teeth to 16 teeth. My question is, if I up the front sprocket to 16 teeth, will I still be able to use a stock 104 link chain or do I have to go bigger?

Thanks

 

[Richsuz]

I just got an oring chain for my xs650. Much better choice. Got it from 650central.com. Its a 530 114, so you need to cut it. This will allow for you to go up one tooth on the countersprocket, but I think the length should remain the same. $89

 

[Guest]

So then an o-ring chain will fit non o-ring OEM sprockets with no trouble?

 

[Nessism]

The sprockets are the same regardless of the type of chain (O-ring or regular).

Going with the larger front sprocket is likely going to require a longer chain but it's hard to say for sure until you try.

 

[Guest]

Great Nessism, that's what I wanted to hear.

Any thoughts on chain length if I up the front a tooth? Will the stock 104 link still work or do I need a longer chain?

 

[Richsuz]

Like I said, I got a 114 link that came with a master. Cut it to suit. But in my experience, going up one tooth was not an issue.

 

[Guest]

Thanks Richsuz.

I thought I would be okay with the stock number of links by using the adjusters. I just want to be sure. I understand getting a longer chain and cutting it. I'm the kind of person that wants all the info possible and any options before I start laying out the money. So I don't screw something up and have to spend more money!!
Thanks

 

[trumper]

For what it is worth, the shop manual for the GR650 lists the original chain as 106 links.

I will be installing a 34 tooth rear sprocket this spring to lower the rpms at speed (leaving the 15 tooth sprocket alone) and figure that I will have to remove two links to keep the wheel in the stock position.

 

[koolaid_kid]

I would do this: buy a chain that is slightly longer than stock, be it 104 or 106. It really does not matter, they only come in discrete lengths. Install the sprockets. Move the wheel as far forward as possible and tighten the axle bolt so the wheel does not move back. Install the chain on the rear sprocket, roll it forward, loop around the front sprocket and bring it back to the rear sprocket. See how many lengths you need to remove. Remove the chain, cut to length and refit the chain.
AFA going to an o-ring chain, there will be no issue whatsoever. IMHO, get the best chain you can afford. IIRC, the x-ring chain is the current leader, but research will give you that information.
Also, you can call Z1Enterprises and talk to someone there. They should be able to answer any and all questions you may have. I installed a one tooth larger front sprocket on my GS two years ago for the same reason, but my chain was already used, so it just moved the rear wheel forward just a small amount, but I did not measure the difference.

 

[Guest]

Hey Trumper, you're right...106 link chain. Dropping 4 teeth to a 34 tooth rear sprocket for lower rpm's. I just figured I would change out the front and go with a stock rear sprocket but I guess it's all the same. Thanks for the help.

 

[Guest]

Koolaid Kid. Thanks for the help. I agree with your input as far as attaching the chain and I was leaning that direction. I also know that the x-ring chain is now the "better" chain. I am close to having this bike road ready and starting to run low on the cash so I was hoping to get these last few things done before I go broke.

Done a LOT of stuff so far to this bike and didn't really want to go with a standard chain just to get it done and an o-ring chain is cheaper than an x-ring chain. So just wanted to be sure of what I was doing. Thanks

 

[koolaid_kid]

I didn't know they still sold non-o-ring chains. The other thing to consider is that a Tempter isn't really a 200 HP Busa. At 405 lb. dry and 62 crank HP it would be rated a light duty application, medium duty at best. As long as you take good care of it, a name brand o-ring chain should do fine.
Be sure and go to Lowes and get a can of their DuPont Teflon Multi-Use Dry, Wax Lubricant to lube the chain. When you get the chain, clean all the preservative off with kerosene and a clean rag, then lube and do not wipe.
And never, ever let WD-40 get near the chain. It will penetrate the o-rings and wash out the lubricant that the o-rings are designed to keep pristine.

 

[Guest]

Thanks for the heads up on proper chain care after I get the new one. It is greatly appreciated. And yes, they still sell non o-ring chains. About $28 on ebay.

I originally got this bike to use as a back and forth to work bike. Light and nimble and pretty good gas mileage. But I live about 5 minutes from the infamous Dragon here in Tenn., so it would be a lot of fun running this little, parallel twin through there. It was a bit of work having to muscle my '82 GS750E around the curves the last time I went for a ride on it.

Thank again.

 

[Dakotakid]

I ran EK SRO on my Tempter and it was very trouble-free.

 

[Richsuz]

Hi jack, but while in the subject of chains, the one I got for the XS650 said, "pre streched", Can anybody enlighten me on what that means? How is it accomplished? Does it mean it will not stretch anymore? I have run it for about 500 miles so far and is still taunt, while the previous standard D.I.D. I needed to adjust every 400 miles and reached its limit at about 6500 miles!

 

[koolaid_kid]

Well, this is what Tsubaki claims:
"Tsubaki chain has perfectly cylindrical bushings and is pre-stretched for decreased initial elongation and increased wear life."
Sounds like they put it under tension at some point in the manufacturing process. Could just be marketing hype, that happens.
All chains, motorcycle and otherwise, stretch. If you purchase a higher quality chain it will take longer to stretch, as you have noted. A lower quality chain will stretch quicker and require more adjustments. My GS has required 3 adjustments in over 10k miles. The GPz chain, OTOH, has required multiple adjustments in just over 1k miles. It will be replaced with an EK SRO chain.
Proper chain maintenance, as I suggested in an earlier post in this thread, will extend chain life and maximize the number of miles between adjustments. Keep it clean, keep it lubed, and keep an eye on it and you should enjoy lots of miles. Let it go, ignore it, and it will wear out before your eyes. This is where the shaft drives, and even belt drives, have the advantage. Much lower maintenance, although they still require periodic attention.

 

[Richsuz]

Thanks for the response Koolaid. Seems like marketing hype to me. So far happy with the Tsubaki chain.

 

[oldrookie]

Got a build thread on the GR?

I just put a 16-tooth on mine, but haven't had a chance to ride it yet. I used a 525 Suzuki sprocket that a lot of folk on the GR forum said they were using with no ill effects.

Did you change out the handlebars?

 

[Guest]

Hey Oldrookie...nope, no build thread. The GR I got was pretty close to stock and I'm just trying to get it back into proper running shape. I have ordered a 16 tooth front sprocket, a new stock 38 tooth rear sprocket and a 530 o-ring chain.

It did come with Suzuki sport handle bars though. At least that's what the PO said. And they are shorter bars but he insisted they were "official Suzuki sport bars and they were really hard to find". But this is the same guy who used wood screws to hold down the gas tank and wood screws to keep the instrument cluster covers on. And other nefarious "fixes".

Now my son, on the other hand, has a GR that was in pretty rough shape and he's turning that into a "streefighter" type bike. He has radically cut and re-welded the frame something awesome and is in the process of turning out quite a bike. His theme is to make a streetfighter type bike but using only the older technology that the bike came with. Should be pretty neat when he's done. And he is documenting his build. When it's done, I'm sure he'll want to post it.

Did you by chance take out the block on the carb air/fuel mixture screws? We did and I'm expecting to get a lot better carb response by doing that. Of course the carbs have been completely rebuilt. But I am rambling...

 

[oldrookie]

I think I've been reading his build thread on Do the Ton. I love what he is doing with that bike. He mentions your bike on that thread (unless there are two fathers and sons with GR's.)

So are the sprockets 525 or 530 in size?

Wood screws, (chuckle, chuckle, snort.)

The caps were off mine when I got it, but I would have removed them if they weren't already.

Hey Oldrookie...nope, no build thread. The GR I got was pretty close to stock and I'm just trying to get it back into proper running shape. I have ordered a 16 tooth front sprocket, a new stock 38 tooth rear sprocket and a 530 o-ring chain.

It did come with Suzuki sport handle bars though. At least that's what the PO said. And they are shorter bars but he insisted they were "official Suzuki sport bars and they were really hard to find". But this is the same guy who used wood screws to hold down the gas tank and wood screws to keep the instrument cluster covers on. And other nefarious "fixes".

Now my son, on the other hand, has a GR that was in pretty rough shape and he's turning that into a "streefighter" type bike. He has radically cut and re-welded the frame something awesome and is in the process of turning out quite a bike. His theme is to make a streetfighter type bike but using only the older technology that the bike came with. Should be pretty neat when he's done. And he is documenting his build. When it's done, I'm sure he'll want to post it.

Did you by chance take out the block on the carb air/fuel mixture screws? We did and I'm expecting to get a lot better carb response by doing that. Of course the carbs have been completely rebuilt. But I am rambling...