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GS Stator

The reason we don't have to fuse the R/R...interesting posplayr.

You guys are talking some intellectual stuff here...keep at it.



Ed
 
gsgeezer said:
Maybe I should replace my electrex....
Click to expand...

Me too...I purchased mine before I was fully aware of the intricacies of the subject. Posplayr, did I read somewhere that the cooler running stator caused by the series r/r, is enough to noticeably lower oil temp?
 
I'm thinking of drilling a hole in an old oil fill cap and JBing an oven thermometer or candy thermometer in it just to test this on my 550. Anyone got a better idea for an easy oil temp thermometer?
 
tkent02 said:
I'm thinking of drilling a hole in an old oil fill cap and JBing an oven thermometer or candy thermometer in it just to test this on my 550. Anyone got a better idea for an easy oil temp thermometer?
Click to expand...

Mine is easy it is already on it. You got a spare sensor and gauge? need one? I have a VDO brand new I'm not likely to use.
 
Forgive the general nature of this post, but when perusing the SH775 spec sheet from Shindengen, they listed a larger 50A series regulator as being under development. I have read that this is the unit being installed on the new V-Strom 1000 (SH847AA). Does anyone know this for sure?
 
Last edited:
And speaking of the 2nd Law of Thermodynamics we have an Aprilla Compu-Fire install with before/after thermal imaging translated from a Aprilla Forum translated from German post.

http://translate.google.com/transla...regler&h l=en&sa=G&biw=995&bih=592&prmd=i vns

Here is a teaser...

Before Compu-Fire install...

200px-IR_original_Regler.jpg




After Compu-Fire install

200px-IR_Compu-Fire.jpg


Also, here is a link to a brief tutorial on the benefits of the Compu-Fire 55402 versus a Series Regulator which posplayr posted on another board...

http://www.keepandshare.com/doc/4094058/rr-tutorial-pdf-june-5-2012-11-34-pm-837k?da=y&dnad=y
 
Last edited:
A series R/R does not appreciably reduce oil temperature. It may reduce stator temperature, but GS bikes don't have a lot of oil flowing up into the stator area, so the stators effect on engine temp overall is minimal, regardless of what kind of R/R you use. As an experiment I did a back to back test using the same bike, same route, same day, two different R/R's, and there was no measurable difference in oil temp.
 
Just stumbled across this thread, and it's good timing. About to go through my 79 GS1000S. I recently had the battery negative come loose on a ride, and it (at the least) appears to have killed my regulator (an old Electrex unit), so that is in need of replacing/upgrade.

About a year ago I did an upgrade of my Aprilia Pegaso's charging system, using a newer series regulator from an 08 Honda CBR600 and a custom wiring harness that runs the output from the RR directly to the battery (stock it was routed through part of the wiring harness, as are most bikes, and I suspect the GS1000 although I haven't looked yet). The Aprilia now shows the battery charging at a constant ~14.2 volts regardless of the engine RPM's. Before it only really charged the battery when it was revving above about 3,000 rpm.

Anyone upgraded their GS to run the RR output directly to the battery?
 
Several people have and I have documented an analysis of the pros and conns. It is mostly a bad idea.
 
"....using a newer series regulator from an 08 Honda CBR600 and a custom wiring harness "

you sure it is a series unit and not a mosfet Shindengen (a shunt unit ) that honda was fond of ??

A few folks on here run the r/r positive output to battery via an inline fuse rather than into harness ... But it's better to keep factory setup. There's a simple explanation why, hopefully posplayr will direct you to that link, cuz I can't find it now
 
Skowinski said:
Just stumbled across this thread, and it's good timing. About to go through my 79 GS1000S. I recently had the battery negative come loose on a ride, and it (at the least) appears to have killed my regulator (an old Electrex unit), so that is in need of replacing/upgrade.

About a year ago I did an upgrade of my Aprilia Pegaso's charging system, using a newer series regulator from an 08 Honda CBR600 and a custom wiring harness that runs the output from the RR directly to the battery (stock it was routed through part of the wiring harness, as are most bikes, and I suspect the GS1000 although I haven't looked yet). The Aprilia now shows the battery charging at a constant ~14.2 volts regardless of the engine RPM's. Before it only really charged the battery when it was revving above about 3,000 rpm.

Anyone upgraded their GS to run the RR output directly to the battery?
Click to expand...

I rewired my RR Pos and Neg directly to the Battery (with Fuse) to ensure the best connections. Works great! BTW, here's my custom wiring diagram for my bike. it's derived from the stock, but with a few additions/modifications for efficiency.

Suzuki GS450T Custom wiring - color.jpg
 
I think it's better to run directly to the battery (with a fuse) because it reduces the possibility of reduced efficiency due to lacking switches, etc. in the harness.
 
If you look at the stock wiring diagram, positive power flows from battery thru main fuse then into harness, the r/r postive output catches up with this connection a little downstream- most output goes to power ignition, lights,etc. a little flows back thru main fuse to recharge battery as needed.
 
tom203 said:
"....using a newer series regulator from an 08 Honda CBR600 and a custom wiring harness "

you sure it is a series unit and not a mosfet Shindengen (a shunt unit ) that honda was fond of ??
...
Click to expand...

You are correct, and I was wrong. Its a FH008EE which is a mofset unit, but cast as an improvement over the SH series RR's (is this correct?) on the website I was following for the upgrade. Anyway, it was a big upgrade from the stock (wonky and prone to failure) old Aprilia RR, and the modification made a really big difference in the charging.
 
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