GS400/425 high performance canyon carver build plans!
GS400/425 high performance canyon carver build plans!
So I am getting ready to send off a GS425 cylinder for machine work by Rapid Ray & associates for resleeving larger to fit an old set of MTC Engineering big bore GS750/850 72mm 920cc pistons. This is in preparation for getting started on a good summer 2019 project bike from the point of dreams & parts boxes of go-fast goodies, to the beginnings of the reality that the build will become.
As you may have read previously, I am trying to build up a lightweight highly upgraded GS twin chassis with all upgraded brakes/wheels/suspension, & trying to make a respectably fast engine out of the little 400/425 2 valve per cylinder roller bearing engines...
I'll be having the stock set of spare cylinders resleeved to GS850 sleeves or perhaps GS450 sleeves if I can get the tapered bottom of the sleeves turned down thinner for better crankcase clearance per Ray's recommendation (less grinding on the crankcase top half to fit, thin them externally to be similar to the o.d. of GS850 thickness below the bottom of the jugs).
Stock 400/425 sleeves are good for 449cc & around 10.4:1 using half of a 4cyl set of Wiseco K844 GS750 pistons (you can buy a half set of these 4cyl pistons for a 2cyl build from APE with a custom APE head gasket, or buy 2 individual pistons &order up your own altered spec Cometic gasket) & allow you to run big lift cams (deeper valve pockets) & also give you high compression, OR you can also use GS850 +1.0mm overbore (870cc on a 750/850 4cyl) pistons & stock-ish cams for 462cc & 9:1 compression, more compression ratio if milling the head's gasket surface and/or milling the cylinder block &/or running thinner head gasket to get the best most ideal squish band aka quench height of around .038"-.043" or roughly 1mm.
I think I determined that 71mm into a 400/425 sleeve may be pushing it for reliable street use as far as cylinder wall thickness, becausedespite my hopefulness that the 425 cylinders used thicker sleeves, I believe when measuring them oh, it did not appear that the sleeve thickness inside of the block was the typical 3.9 or 4 mm. this led me to believe that Suzuki just changed the 398cm?displacement number cast into the front of the cylinder for the 79 model 425's 423cm?, & bored the walls 1mm thinner (2mm overall bore increase - 1mm off each side). I'll have these cylinders in my hands in the near future to check again.
I have several exhaust options, including some interesting F1R dual aluminum mufflers with upswept modular inlet pieces, MAC 2-1 header & heavy chromed steel MAC muffler (won't be using this hefty MAC muffler can), Kerker "System K" aluminum muffler can and random mid pipes, and an older 2-1 header with a 45 degree bend in the #2 cyl head pipe to make it the same length to the collector as the #1 cylinder which travels from the left front side to the right rear side. I've seen these before but unsure of the manufacturer, they have not been made for a long time. Yoshimura Series 1 stovepipe style exhaust would potentially get fabricated out of stainless tubing if I use that header. + Yoshimura reproduction badging in tribute...
Here is an older mockup of all the parts I've been stockpiling for this epic little GS twin build:
Hoping to diet this bike down to a target of 325lbs, while drastically increasing the little twin's engine output, & substantially upgrading the suspension. GS1100E '82-'83 aluminum triples, GS500 forks and Tokico brakes on a 310mm 98-99 CBR900RR rotor, stainless brake hose, Fox Factory Shox, billet GS500 fork brace, narrowed GS1100E alloy swingarm (not pictured), rearsets, semi-custom exhaust, clip-on bars, etc... Taller rear stance, shorter slammed front end stance to steepen the rake 1.75 degrees or more (29 stock & the light aluminum 1100E 82+ triple has less offset than the heavy steel GS850/1000 37mm stanchion tube 185mm spaced triple)
Topping it off cosmetically with some great flare using a vintage aftermarket Italian Giuliari seat & GS450S knee dent tank to put it in serious racer looking trim, as well as GS400 badged side covers... Had to sneak a little of the "sleeper" element into the ol beauty to not totally give away the near 500cc size and high performance engine top end work!
Ray loves to tell about the 562cc(?) GS500 they built that would pull past 600cc 4 cylinder bikes in the looonnggg back straight at their home racetrack in Hawaii at the time... The bore limit (stud spacing) on the early roller bearing engines limits me to 502cc or 520cc with custom pistons, and I want cams that produce a more broad streetable power curve, so I won't be going THAT big, but I have some fairly lofty real-world performance goals targeted here with this thing.
For now a set of GS1000 hubs with probably a GS500 sprocket carrier(?) & offset front sprocket (?), 3.50x18 & 2.50x18 D.I.D.aluminum rims, 140/70-18 or 130/70-18 or 130/80-18 Shinko SR741 or Pirelli Sport Demon or BT45V Battlax tire, 100/90-18 or 100/80-18 front Shinko 230 or BT45V or Sport Demon. May seal up the spoke nipple areas with some small plastic domed pieces + some 3M marine sealant/adhesive & 3M Extreme Sealing Tape products and go with tubeless valve stems to save further rotating weight & to free up additional horsepower so that every bit of power that Ray & I can squeeze out of this smaller displacement engine's head porting, big bore/high compression, bigger cams, and carbs can be more effectively transmitted to the ground with less parasitic losses from rotational weight... Every bit helps...
If I race this in WERA's Formula 500 vintage class, there is a 3.00" rim width limit +as well as 18" minimum rim diameter to keep it fair & authentically vintage appropriate), & 12"/304.8mm brake rotor limit, and floating rotors are not allowed, so I would have to do a semi-custom rotor and caliper mounting configuration if I were actually becoming competitive in the class, as well as use a different set ofold NOS Akront TC rims that I already have handy waiting here for the occasion. that is a good thing, as I could run the street tires on the existing wheels or use those on a bigger bike, and run race rubber or track day rubber on the slightly skinnier setup. or I could run it as is for the first few races, because no one is really going to protest if I am not winning races and beating them! If I did, however, anyone that I placed ahead of can protest my setup and I would lose my ranking. Which doesn't really matter to me, I just wanna ride ride ride!