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GS1000G mods- big bore and fuel injection

  • Thread starter Thread starter GS1000G Shopper
  • Start date Start date
I've rethought the pump mount and picked up some grommets at Lowes. I bored the holes in the airbox to 1/2" and filed them smooth. Using the rubber/metal bonded washers, I can mount it using the heat sink. I will need to glue a small rubber hose in the groove for the heat sink to keep it off the air box- it does not touch as-is, but it could under vibration/riding.

I still need to test this and see if it will contact the engine under normal riding, at that point I can work on adding clearance to it as suggested.

The mounting concerns are due to this pump being huge. It's 52mm (2") diameter x 8" overall (5" body). In front of the airbox was the best place that came to mind for being able to get to it and plumbing/wiring. As noted earlier, the pump body must be kept isolated electrically from the frame.
 
Presumably this is because you are switching on the -ve side of the pump? Any provision for switching on the +ve side? Perhaps with a relay?

Just a thought...
 
The problem can be resolved at this point with proper mounting.

The hose I placed under the bracket actually tilted the front up a little, but the front of the heat sink still hit the fuel rail- which grounds via 6mm screws. There is still plenty of room between the top of the heat sink and the hoses from the air box. I need to mark the heat sink to see if it is practical to try and remove material for clearance.

What I tried next was my angle aluminum bracket, the 2" silicone sleeve (cut in half and spaced so the clamps hold it evenly), and held in place with two #40 (too large, but on hand) hose clamps. Lots of clearance all around.

To control the pump with PWM from the + side would require a lot of rewiring. That's something to keep in mind if this should ever be scratch-built again.
 
Not necessarily... Very easy to isolate a relay & switch that on the -ve side allowing your pump to be switch on the +ve side I would think. :)
 
Relays do not work well with PWM, as I intended to go that route initially. Research showed the transistor circuit was the best way to go.

The heat sink is too large to clear the rail even with the mounting base cut off, which allows it to be tucked in closer to the air box. I may be able to space it in this manner so the gap where I cut it lines up with the rail, but it looks like the hose clamps may still touch the rail.

I'm going to try it with the pump in the silicone hose sections held up by the hose clamps. I'm looking for a smaller OD heat sink that could be made to work (and could possibly mount between the hose sections), but finding specs on them is not always easy.

EDIT
I forgot that I already looked for these, and found a 2" ID one here for $22:
http://www.partsconnexion.com/ACCESS-62443.html
 
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While I was wiring the coil input, I read about the coil mod here. I checked and had 12.6V at the battery, and only 10.6 at the coil connector. Since the Microsquirt needs to hook up to the + and - coil terminals, I cut off the old plugs and added a 4 pin Weatherpack connector, plus a waterproof relay (McMaster.com) and inline fuse since I had no more room on the fuse panel for another micro relay. After the mod, the voltage drop went from 2 volts to .07 volt.

I also tucked in the other wires not being used. The only connector left is the O2 sensor. I found a site that allows an estimate for the VE table and AFR table based on RPM, horsepower, and torque. Still need to do some research so my initial numbers are as close as possible.
 
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The O2 connector was a bear to assemble. I would recommend a pigtail & crimp/soldering the wires.

Today I hung the exhaust, it was a lot less painful than expected. The O2 sensor looks like it will clear OK.

In looking for stock GS1100G specs for HP & TQ, I found this page, which lists the specs for a 1982 GK as 94 HP @ 8000 RPM and 63.4 foot-pounds 6400 RPM. Should be close enough to get me started with tuning, but I'm not sure the calc works with smaller engines. I hope to get underway with that part of the project this week.

There is a lot to read here:
Microsquirt V3 manual page
 
I've made a lot of headway this week.

Today I finished the fuel hose installs for the 1/2" inlet and 5/16" injection hoses to and from the filter. I'll place the pre-pump filter after I sit the tank in place to see how clearance is for the bulky filter.

I cut the remaining 3" segments of the 45mm hose and used smooth bore hose clamps to hold them to the throttle bodies, so the air box is now in place.

The wiring harness for the injectors and sensors is in place.

I found that the wide band O2 controller I had (LC-1) is too large/cumbersome (way too much wire) for my needs, so I shopped for an alternative. (outdated content deleted)

UPDATE: The BPSX unit is no longer made and apparently had problems with accuracy. I found a decent replacement for $75 called the Spartan2. The vendor says it was designed to work with Megasquirt.

I'm getting the tuning software setup and gathering numbers to input for the sensors and settings. There is a lot to learn there, so many screens.

As an unrelated "while I was at it", I re-wired the fairing and placed dual relays in it for low and high beam using the fuse panel in the fairing. I also bought a pair of used horns from a late model Kawasaki, since the aftermarket ones I had did not hold up. I had a Hella 335Hz horn but could not find an affordable high tone horn to match it.
 
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Have you decided what software to use yet? I notice you mentioned the microsquirt v3 manual in an earlier post. I read this from end to end & decided to go for ms2 extra. It has its own manuals & seems much easier to programme than ms v3. I also used alpha n rather than the speed density settings that the ms v3 manual advises. Better for bikes apparently.
Nick
 
You are talking about firmware (see link below) and I think you have confused Megasquirt 3 with Microsquirt V3. The actual tuning SW is called Tuner Studio, and it depends on what is on the controller (MS unit). In my case, I had V3 out of the box since I recently bought the unit. There's a lot of info here:
http://www.msextra.com/feature-xref.html

Microsquirt uses the MS2 Extra code:

"For Megasquirt 2, Microsquirt and Microsquirt Module, the features listed are those from MS2/Extra code 2.1.0
Megasquirt3 are using their own latest firmwares."

I know I saw an option for Alpha N but I'm still going through a lot of details right now and will cross that bridge when I get to it.
 
Thanks, I'll look it over and see which one is correct for my controller.
 
Here are some pics from the past few weeks.

Wix pre-pump filter 33274:
imageSANY1302_zps61efeb40.jpg


Fuel pump test fit with silicone hose and one clamp:
imageSANY1305_zps45e66d14.jpg


Throttle bodies 1:
imageSANY1308_zps3f9709bc.jpg


Throttle bodies 2:
imageSANY1310_zpscd6c80c8.jpg


Throttle bodies 3:
imageSANY1309_zpsd89f9b17.jpg
 
Some pics with the tank in place:
imageSANY1314_zpsaf49bb5f.jpg


imageSANY1313_zps1af46a8e.jpg



imageSANY1315_zpsc65f866e.jpg


Rear section with PWM module (O2 controller will also go here):
imageSANY1316_zps6fb1af00.jpg
 
A short update, I had a few issues with the Microsquirt firmware. I had updated from 3.77 to 3.83 and the coolant sensor went way low and I saw no cranking RPM (no tach signal). After some help on the Megasquirt forum, I ended up loading the MS Extra firmware (v. 3.42) and it made setup a lot easier. The coolant sensor is OK now and I also see cranking RPM, so the tach signal is coming thru.

At that point the fuel pump no longer works- even when direct wired. The oil pressure sender lug broke off when I was installing it (this also happened on my blue GS1000), so I'm buying an Autometer sender. Two steps forward and two back.
 
As an update, I've been working on Microsquirt issues, and hopefully have worked out most of them. The main issue was getting an RPM signal to the unit, which didn't work using the coil. I've since modified the original pickup to operate as two VR sensors and ran a length of shielded cable back to the MS. It seems to be hit or miss on this setup, but at least I was getting an RPM signal. I now need to build a coil driver, since the MS version I have cannot directly control coils.

There are a lot of variables with this, and there are a lot of different software and firmware versions to make things more interesting.

The good news for today was I installed fuel pump #2, the first one quit working 4 days after the return period, so I have to send it to Bosch. The better news was it is not leaking. The bad news is the PWM is set too high, as the pump ran up to 50 PSI before I cut it off by hand. I will tweak the settings, but the box I mentioned earlier in this thread has some appeal. The Arudino strikes me as a hobby item, not something for daily use on a bike.

I have a lot of MS related pics and data, and will post them at some point.
 
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May I make a suggestion to make things easier for you.
Get yourself a 36-1 tooth trigger wheel like in the picture below. It works for me & has been used by lots of people doing this conversion.


For the ignition module why not use the Bosch module 0227 100 200 like in the picture below. Again its proven on this type of application so no need to reinvent the wheel. They are fitted to many common cars (VW for example) Wiring instructions are here.
http://www.motec.com/filedownload.php/m29.pdf?docid=1260


Another suggestion would be to refit the carbs & get the ignition side of things to work before moving onto the fuel.
The bonus side of this is now you are using Microsquirt to run the ignition you have the ability to retard the ignition when cranking which will give the starter clutch a much easier time. For me this was an essential part of the whole conversion as I have suffered with exploding starters & clutches for the last 25 years & was why my bike had sat unused since 1998. I just got fed up with it & bought some modern bikes.
Nick
 
Great stuff, but looks like $$$. Having to buy two fuel pumps has really hurt the budget. I'll hopefully get some relief if Bosch warranties the first one. I also paid $50 for the aftermarket PWM box when the one I built didn't work properly. A lot of this will be something of a rant, but I think after 21 pages & 200 posts I'm deserving. :)

Any idea on the cost of one of those wheels, and related parts or where to find one small enough to fit inside the cover? I searched for a 36-1 motorcycle trigger wheel and eventually found a place called trigger-wheels.com that is overseas. They sell one small enough (2.5" OD) for roughly $30 plus shipping, but then there is mounting it, and relocating one of the pickups (the photo looks like an OEM pickup).

Looking for that ignition module by part # was likewise frustrating. I eventually found one for $60. The problem with "many common cars" is it returns thousands of parts. If you can specify an application example (i.e. 1985 VW Transporter as I did for the Bosch fuel pump in post #1), this makes it a lot easier to find & find one at a good price. I found one on eBay for $45 shipped, and the application there says 1979-2004 Porsche 911. I had to pull teeth like this for a fuel pump, and really don't want to do it for an ignition module.

As it stands, I can build a dual circuit coil driver using some perfboard & resistors I had on hand, the old ignitor box (it comes apart easily, also free :)), and a couple of $2.60 transistors. I have a spot for it under the seat. I have no room for other boxes at this point, which was a deciding factor for using the ignitor box.

My point in posting this thread was to make a system that would be repeatable for others that wish to try it using as many common parts as possible.

I searched here to see if anyone had done this, no sense in re-inventing the wheel. The best thread I found started in May 2009 and 7 pages/ 2 months later in July was more or less abandoned.

There are no lack of partially completed projects. Here on GSR aside from my thread, there are 22 others with the term "fuel injection" in the title, to include one from April 3 of this year:
I never dreamed it would be that much work!


Then there are the unanswered questions and ideas floating around. I'm striving to make what I'm doing:
1. Work,
2. Be as low-budget as possible, and
3. Easy to understand for someone reading this 1 week or 1 year later, which is how I approach all projects, be they added gauges or trunk tail lights.

I'm updating the first post as things change, deleting my posts that are inaccurate or incomplete, and hope to have a clickable table of contents when I'm done. I think I've spent a week or so just bouncing around the various Mega/Micro Squirt versions and pages. I'll see one thing that looks like it may solve a problem, and then when I go to the Tuner Studio software, the setting doesn't exist. I think this is actually worse than learning to speak a foreign language.

Rant over. I'm feeling better now. :)
 
Trigger-wheels.com is where my trigger wheel came from. They are overseas but so am I. The picture I posted is of my set up on what you call a gs1100 katana. Essentially the same bottom end as you. Yes you are correct it uses 1 of the standard Suzuki pickups on a new baseplate & I machined a new carrier for trigger wheel. Its all part of making a nice neat reliable job. None of this stuff has been cheap but the expensive bits are the microsquirt, the wideband controller & the throttle bodies. To do this job properly will cost money but I want everything neat & tidy with no wires & bits sticking out that look wrong (hopefully)
I saw a similar set up on a forum on a Gsxr which convinced me.
Regarding the Bosch module the info is out there on the internet.
I am surprised that you havent found any info on similar projects, granted none on this forum but out in the wide world of the net there are lots of sites that cover fitting Gsxr throttle bodies onto a variety of bikes including a GS & also on bike engined cars. Its all the same thing just a little less room on a bike. Right at the beginning of your post a guy called Arttu offered some help with a pwm controller. He has had a turbo GS running efi on megasquirt since about 2007. He has been a great help to me with info etc. I don't believe that it is really possible to do a step by step conversion guide as most people will have their own ideas on how things should be done. Certainly there are a few things on which you & I would definitely not agree lol.
I agree with you on the whole megasquirt documentation thing & all the different versions of firmware. I don't expect you to take my word for it but the latest version of ms extra is the way to go & it work well with tuner studio. I couldnt get the ms firmware to work.
Anyway keep on plugging away & good luck.
Nick
 
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