GS1000G mods- big bore and fuel injection

[GS1000G Shopper]

After a few days on other things, I was able to get a few GS things completed. The new shaft boot arrived and was not too difficult to install. I've gotten most of the motor mounting bolts in place, but have a lot of non-bike work coming up this week. Plus I have to replace the clutch on my GSX-G.

The only main type of item I can think of that I need is a fuel pump. The tank is back together with the rebuilt petcock and seals.

 

[Guest]

What are you using for a sketch for the arduino ?

 

[GS1000G Shopper]

EDIT
No longer using the Arudino, check the first post for a link to the aftermarket PWM controller.

 

[Guest]

Looks good
Three days ago I decided to get into Arduino's
I haven't programed anything since... well high-school but I understand what you have there

 

[GS1000G Shopper]

EDIT
Internal fuel pumps do not work as external pumps.

 

[salty_monk]

Won't it overheat if you use an internal pump externally??

 

[GS1000G Shopper]

The lifespan may be diminished, but from my research, I won't be using anywhere near the capacity of the pump. I may try to make some type of heat sink for it as well.

The fellow that designed the PWM controller uses an internal GSXR600 pump on his bike and has not reported any failures. He noted:

In practice, the pump controller works quite well. There were two issues with this solution. On hot days (above 90 F), the pump proper can get fairly warm after about 10 mins. This primarily occurs at idle or low RPM when insufficient fuel is flowing through the pump to cool it off. EFI fuel pumps tend to be very inefficient as only a very small fraction of the power they require is used to push fuel. The pump itself can take plenty of heat, it's the gas that can't. Above 120 F, gas near the surface of the pump inlet can boil, which causes the pump to cavitate and lose pressure.

I don't know if the GSXR uses a turbine style of pump like the Bosch is. They are supposed to be more efficient.

There's no question the best solution is one of the micro pumps from a few pages back, but I don't have another $400+ to sink into the project. In the worst case, I'm out $45 and some JB Weld.

 

[almarconi]

Why did you use all that blue goo on the base gasket? I thought they were supposed to be put on dry.

 

[posplayr]

A little bit of this and that.

Tested OK on the simulator program I bought.

void setup()
{
pinMode(pwmPin, OUTPUT); // sets the pin as output
analogWrite(pwmPin, 128) // primes the pump at half power
[COLOR="Red"][B];[/B][/COLOR]delay(1000) // pump runs for 1 second
[COLOR="Red"][B];[/B][/COLOR]analogWrite(pwmPin, 0) // shuts off the pump
[COLOR="Red"][B];[/B][/COLOR]}

Cool what compiler are you using? What processor is in the andrino?
Btw you normally don't put comments between the end of the statement and the semi-colon. The c++ style comment disables everything to the end of line.

 

[GS1000G Shopper]

Why did you use all that blue goo on the base gasket? I thought they were supposed to be put on dry.

I started using Hylomar when I rebuilt a Rotary engine a number of years ago. It's good stuff and should not be a problem there. Time will tell of course.

EDIT
No longer using the Arudino, check the first post for a link to the aftermarket PWM controller.

 

[GS1000G Shopper]

Some more progress today. The head is on & torqued into place and the cams lined up & torqued down. I made a test-fit on the throttle bodies and air box and once in place everything should clear. I'm going to buy a set of GSX1100G throttle cables as the one GS cable is too short. I need to measure the choke cable for the choke function on the throttle bodies. Once these parts are in place, I can layout the fuel pump, filters, and hoses.

Not relevant to the project, but I'm replacing the front fender where the oil cooler dented it. While this is off, I'm replacing the front springs & resealing the forks.

 

[Guest]

Why do you even need a manual choke?

Sounds like something else the arduino can take care of.

 

[GS1000G Shopper]

It's not a choke (enrichment) as it is on the GS. It is a cam on the linkage that acts as a fast idle setting from what I can tell.

Trying to control this with a temperature-sensing actuator would be possible, but far more complex. I like being able to use the OEM choke knob.

 

[ashdricky]

GS1000 Shopper, I have a simple but highly functional oil cooler adapter kit if you were looking for one, 6061, with Black anodized AN fittings as well as pressure gauge, PM me if I can help.

 

[GS1000G Shopper]

Thanks for the offer, but after running an oil temperature gauge for a coupe of years, I've found an oil cooler is not needed on these bikes.

 

[GS1000G Shopper]

More research today, which was spent primarily removing the front wheel & forks so I could replace the springs and seals.

The GSXR fuel rail has a 5/16 "quick disconnect" (QD) fitting on it. One of the project cars in my shop is a Dodge Daytona with the 2.5L engine. I had the fuel rail and hose off it and noticed the fitting looked similar to the GSXR part. I plugged it in, and it clicked into place.

I've found a number of Chrysler fuel filters with this type of fitting, but the thing is with Wix you have to look at them one at a time, and all of the specs are not there for each one. I'm looking for a small filter, and have seen a couple that may work- the fittings are both on the same side, one barb and one QD. Some versions come with a hose. The specs I've seen fro most Wix filters are in the 10-15 micron range, which should work well post-pump, pre-injector.

I'll update once I find something that works and is affordable.

 

[GS1000G Shopper]

My fuel pump testing rig paid off. The small pump draws about 2 amps free flow using water, but under pressure it spiked to 10.5 amps! It also leaked on the inlet side around the metal seam, so it was not usable- I'm sure this was due to plugging the ports. Plan B is the Bosch external version I had listed here earlier. I suspect it will draw less than this one based on the overall rating. Plan C wil be to use an early Hayabusa pump that has a built-in regulator. My only concern is the size.

The replacement fender is painted, the forks are resealed, the rear tire has been swapped and new bearings installed.

I also made a couple of oversize battery cables to replace the old thinner ones. I used some 6 gauge cable from McMaster, 8 gauge would have worked, but the 6 gauge was the smallest size with a high-temp covering.

I have a set of used throttle cables from a GSX1100G. It looks like they may be barely long enough, but it will be tight. I had to re-drill the plate on the switch housing so it lined up with the hole for the screw. The choke cable won't work since it can't be adjusted- usually these cables have two nuts and an adjuster sleeve. The GS cable only has one nut and it's actually too long for the application. I think a universal cable may work, or in the worst case I can use a GSX left control that has a choke control on it.

 

[Guest]

Why not an in-tank pump ? Seems to be lots available cheap.

that would require cutting into the tank and making a plate to mount the pump and seal the hole but you could get a whole unit with the plate built on.

Seems like an easier way to go price wise.

 

[GS1000G Shopper]

The layout of the GS tank is somewhat different than the later GSX ones. With the narrow sides, it may be a tight fit to get an entire assembly in there- I have not measured a GSX in-tank assembly, but from looking at them it appears it would be very tight, and could not mount in the rear. While it may mount towards the front, then you have to worry about clearance for the parts that hang down.

I had considered adapting a later model tank to the bike, but that would change the appearance in a way I would not like. My goal is to retain the stock appearance if possible, another reason for keeping the petcock.

Additionally, that is a lot more work than I care to do- and takes this from a mostly DIY level (excluding regular machine shop work) to one requiring costly third-party work.

 

[Steve]

Using these numbers with the 73mm pistons & large head gasket, I get 9.76:1 with the GS1000 head, and 10.7:1 with the GS1100 head.

I'll likely need to run a better grade of fuel if this is the case.

As you noted in a later post, compression ratio is not the only determining factor for octane requirement.

If your have a well-designed combustion chamber that is relatively small-diameter so the flame front travels quickly, you can do very nicely with lower octane. When you have larger-diamter chambers that might not have proper turbulence to propogate the flame front, things start going wacky, and the quickest "fix" is higher octane.

As evidenced by the picture on page 12 (copied below), my digital caliper had them at 72.88 mm. ...

What do you mean "on page 12"? :-k This is only part-way down on page FOUR.

If you don't agree with me, you don't have your "view" setting set to a much more convenient setting. Very easy to change.

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