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GS1000S self cancelling indicators not working

finchy4

Forum Apprentice
Good afternoon all,
The self cancelling function on my indicators has stopped working.
It has worked intermittently in the past but has now stopped altogether.
The indicators still function but require a manual stop (if that makes sense).
I have cleaned the contacts in the wiring blocks but still no joy.
If anyone has any suggestions on please or a replacement box to try/ buy?
The boxes are available new on the cmsnl website but at 500 plus euros, plus p&p and then UK VAT (20%) and delivery company handling fee they are out of my reach.
Thank you in advance for any help.
David
 
The turn signal control mechanism is drastically different between the 1979 and 1980 model year. Which do you have? If the later you have a good chance if purchasing a used turn signal control module, which is shared with other models. These units are reasonably reliable. Buy used after confirming with the seller that you will get a refund if inop. If the 1979 model, that's a much bigger problem. That system pretty much sucked, which is why Suzuki fixed it in 1980. The system can be converted to full manual following guides in older threads here. Otherwise, I fear your options are to spend the money on a new module or gamble on purchasing a used one (which is unlikely to work properly.)
 
It's a 1979 model I'm afraid.
The units don't appear on sale often (even on the dreaded flea).
No way am I coughing up what's being asked for a new unit. Guess I'll just have to stick with manual cancelling. A shame as it was quite useful at times.
 
It's a 1979 model I'm afraid.
The units don't appear on sale often (even on the dreaded flea).
No way am I coughing up what's being asked for a new unit. Guess I'll just have to stick with manual cancelling. A shame as it was quite useful at times.

Consider yourself lucky if the only problem with your signals is the fact that they don't auto cancel. With that older system when the TSCU fails it wipes out all turnsignal operation.
 
If that happens search the forum for mods as a workaround. I'm not an expert on the subject but have seen the threads detailing what to do.
 
Often the reason why the auto cancel fails is that the module is replaced upside down and it fills with water (there is an indication arrow)
My brother has an immaculate S that he has never ridden and recently had the exact same issue. Apparently, there are two relays inside, I forget what he said whether one is a latching and the other Left/right or whether it was one relay left and the other right, anyway in this case it was these two relays that needed replacing or cleaning up, again I forget which.
 
Thank you for that information. Recently had a ride home in torrential rain. I'll pull the unit tomorrow and get it inside.
Do you happen to know if the relays are easily accessible or I'm looking at a full strip down?
 
Thank you for that information. Recently had a ride home in torrential rain. I'll pull the unit tomorrow and get it inside.
Do you happen to know if the relays are easily accessible or I'm looking at a full strip down?

No, easy to get to. 1st picture shows the issue cause, he cleaned up the original relays, he said he didn't have anything with the original footprint, anyway it all works tickety boo now.
I forgot to ask if they were one relay each side for indication. It makes sense that it ould be one left and one right as the relay would be the latch until the speedo sensor counted down.









 
Thank you, these are a great help.
I will pull mine as soon as I can get out to the garage and see if it is salvageable.
Please thank your brother for me to. I certainly appreciate the photos of the internals.
David
 
UPDATE
I've had the chance now to check the box.
It was mounted the right way up and easy to get to.
Opened it up and absolutely no sign of corrosion at all.
Gave it a quick blast of contact cleaner (just in case) let it dry and reassembled and replaced it.
Still allows the use of the indicators but the timer/self cancelling function still not working. I must admit I haven't tried it out on the road as it's currently persisting down.
Should I try anything else, obtain an expensive replacement or just use it as it is?
Thank you again in advance for any help or tips.
David
 
The self cancelling won't work standing, the speedometer cable has to be turning.
 
Yep, Suzuki had a kind'f speed + time system. the front wheel, speedo, had to be going something like 15mph for 15 sec. to turn the signals off, less than 15mph, they would never turn off.
 
Update- thank you for the comments. Unfortunately due to the scaffolders limiting access to the garage, I can't get the bike out to test it ☹️
I'll update properly once the "gentlemen" have removed the offending pipework in a couple of weeks.
 
There is a reed switch in the back of the speedo switched by the rotating magnet that drives the speedo needle. The number of pulses is a certain time determine if the cancelling is due to time or distance.
 
Thank you, that's very interesting to know. Is that accessable without pulling the Speedo apart or would I need to dismantle it?
 
Hey man, I wouldn't think about taking anything apart "YET", like we've explained, the bike has got to be going appx. 15 mph for the self canceling to work. I'm thinking & hoping yours will be fine when you get it out on the road.
 
I have my fingers crossed but it's going to be a bit of a wait before I can get the bike back on the road again.
The self cancelling did work but has not functioned properly for some time now. I can turn them on (both left and right) but have to manually turn them off.
I'm hoping that as the contents was corrosion free, cleaning up the connector blocks may help.
I'll report back once I get the chance to get her back on the road and test them again.
 
Actually, you can test it without leaving your garage. All it would take is an electric drill and a disk that is 3-4" in diameter. The rubber backing disk for a sandpaper disk works very nicely.

Put the bike on the centerstand, brace the front of the frame to raise the front wheel off the ground. Start the bike, get it to run nicely, then start a turn signal. Fire up the drill, hold the rubber wheel against the front tire, get it to spin. A 3" wheel in a drill that spins at 3000 RPM will get you about 20 mph, which is plenty to test the auto-cancel.

If the signals don't cancel, you can open the headlight bucket to find the reed switch wires. Those wires are black/red and blue/red, and will just have bullet connectors to the main harness. Disconnect them from the main harness, connect an ohmmeter to the switch leads, then rotate the front wheel. Does not have to be fast, just enough to see if the magnet in the speedo triggers the reed switch. If that works, your problem is in your control unit.
 
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