GS100G clutch

[Alexander]

Greetings to all!
with a beautiful season coming, I could not help but think of the little beast GS1000G,
which however would need a new clutch, it has 20K km and slips when it gets serious!
if you go calmly it still holds.
Have any of you had any experiences with alternative spare parts,
or do I replace with originals since they are still on the market? thanks​

 

[chuck hahn]

20G isnt crap on a clutch. Have you adjusted the cable to specs? AFTER inspection of the cable and proper adjustment it still slips then id replace the plates and friction discs. Many good aftermarket kits. Notably i use Caltric and have had excellent results. If you got a ton of spare cash and want to pay big prices then go OEM

tutorials and service manuals here.

https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/

 

[chuck hahn]

PARTSHARK is the place to access OEM parts fiches

 

[Rob S.]

20G isnt crap on a clutch.

Remember that's not even 20k miles, but kilometers!

What about springs?

 

[rphillips]

For me clutch slipping on a GS is rare. Have you checked the free play in the cable? Too tight will cause your problem. Also what oil do you use, more modern slicker oil can cause these to slip. Have you used any oil additives? they can, and "WILL" cause them to slip, been there done that. These GS's have wet clutches and usually wear very little, even with a lot of abuse. More common is a cracked fiber plate or a little section, chunk, of a fiber plate broke out and missing.... As for OEM or aftermarket I've used both and noticed no difference. But for sure, can't go wrong with OEM.... 12K mi, hard to imagine worn plates at that low mi.

 

[chuck hahn]

YES oil must be additve friction modifier free The go to oil we use in our GSs is Shell Rotella T4 diesel oil. If your clutch has used oil with friction modifiers replace the friction plates and use the rotella from now on

 

[rphillips]

After I installed the "Slick 50" additive clutch slipped bad. Realizing what had happened, drained oil out and installed Castrol, my usual oil back then, and slipping got better. I rode it a couple of hundred mi., changed oil again and slipping got way better, another couple of hundred and another oil change and all was fine. Took a little longer but back then I didn't have the $$$ for a new clutch pack.

 

[Nessism]

Replace the springs with a new set of OEM springs. I would not go off replacing friction discs until this is tried.

 

[chuck hahn]

To me if theyre compromised thats the end. replace once and be done with it. nothing worse than having gto do it again.

 

[Nessism]

To me if theyre compromised thats the end. replace once and be done with it. nothing worse than having gto do it again.

How do you know the plates are compromised? Friction modifiers are rarely used in oils like 10W-40.

 

[chuck hahn]

In the above posts i said IF oil with friction modifers had bben used.. Never read that there was and never assumed so. So if friction modified oil was used then the friction plates have absorbed the stuff and are contaminated...Plated are relatively cheap so just replace them and move on.

 

[rphillips]

Well, when Alexander comes back, he'll have a few options to pick from... Sure hope he gets it figured out and keeps us updated, could very well help others in the future.

 

[Rich82GS750TZ]

Give him a chance. Initial post was 10:23 am EDST. It’s now 10:44 pm Italy time.

 

[Rob S.]

Give him a chance. Initial post was 10:23 am EDST. It’s now 10:44 pm Italy time.

Italy? Get a Duck. Or a Guzzi. Or better yet, a V4 Aprilia. I hear low mileage ones can be had for $500 (Canadian). :cupcake:

 

[Alexander]

Deep in work!
Thanks so much for the many options.
In fact it got worse with the castrol synt oil change, it also oozes from the head,
I'll remove it immediately and put in an old mineral if I remember correctly a 10-40.
Then it's clear if it doesn't improve I'll change everything OEM.
Besides the friction discs, springs and gasket I shouldn't have any other needs.
I saw that the last disc has a stop with a steel wire, is it necessary to inspect this disc too or can I leave it in place?
The Police had Guzzis and I've always disliked them, then maybe they are nice bikes and especially tractors.
As a boy I had the pleasure of having a 1950 Falcone 500 Guzzi for a day, the civilian version in burgundy
just looking at it is a masterpiece. I've seen them restored even above 15K​

 

[chuck hahn]

leave the one with wire alone. Just change friction plates and put on a new cover gasket. As was mentioned new springs wont hurt either.

 

[Nessism]

What specific oil? Most won't hurt the clutch, despite what some people say about the need for MA2 oil.

Count me as someone against cheap china clutch friction plates. I'd go EBC, OEM, or some known good higher end brand. Good chance the springs alone will solve the problem. Use grease on the gasket, and if the springs don't cut it, you can always go back in and change the friction discs later. And while you are at it, be sure to lubricate, or change, the clutch cable. With only 20k on the bike, the cable should be okay, though.

 

[Alexander]

I have carefully considered your advice and thank you.
I decided to first evaluate the actual conditions of the elements and then replace with the same OEM ones.
Same goes for the oil, out with synthetic and go with mineral.
For now I have ordered:

TRW Lucas MEF106-6 reinforced springs kit.

4T Bel-Ray 10W-40 EXL 4lt oil.

Crankcase gasket.

I will try to proceed like this. I remove the oil and disassemble the clutch, I inspect the elements, hoping that they are still usable, as someone says,
even if they have 20,000 KM and if I don't see anything abnormal, I degrease the discs to remove the previous oil and reassemble everything.
Then I evaluate, if the discs are very worn, I replace them. In your opinion, at this point is it better to also replace the steel discs or could these still hold?
thanks​

 

[Grimly]

I have carefully considered your advice and thank you.
I decided to first evaluate the actual conditions of the elements and then replace with the same OEM ones.
Same goes for the oil, out with synthetic and go with mineral.
For now I have ordered:

TRW Lucas MEF106-6 reinforced springs kit.

4T Bel-Ray 10W-40 EXL 4lt oil.

Crankcase gasket.

I will try to proceed like this. I remove the oil and disassemble the clutch, I inspect the elements, hoping that they are still usable, as someone says,
even if they have 20,000 KM and if I don't see anything abnormal, I degrease the discs to remove the previous oil and reassemble everything.
Then I evaluate, if the discs are very worn, I replace them. In your opinion, at this point is it better to also replace the steel discs or could these still hold?
thanks​

Forty year old springs lose tension from just sitting, no matter what mileage is on them.
The fricition plates may be glazed, but again forty year old plates aren't trustworthy - they might start to fall apart and could clog up your oil pickup strainer. Not worth the risk.

 

[Alexander]

Forty year old springs lose tension from just sitting, no matter what mileage is on them.
The fricition plates may be glazed, but again forty year old plates aren't trustworthy - they might start to fall apart and could clog up your oil pickup strainer. Not worth the risk.

I will definitely get 9 new clutch discs, I just wanted to see them first. I also wanted to see how the steel discs are before spending more money. Maybe I'll find out that it was simply the oil and the package is still perfect and I'll save something! It already happened with the little sister GS 550 E, taken with 6000 Mi and replaced only the bare minimum, o-rings, pads, various rubbers, everything else was dismantled and restored, a lot of labor but little expense.