O
oohsam
Guest
Thanks, I think so too!
I think the black powdercoated rim and black shocks really set it off...
I think the black powdercoated rim and black shocks really set it off...
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H
Hoosier Daddy
Guest
Gorgous street bike!
Gorgous street bike!
Really nice Oosam!
Your project fascinates me because I own a 1100G, and I just took it out for a track day.
It's all stock and performed well, however it's way inferior to the modern sport bikes I was riding with, by about 30 years.
Of course when I got home I thought about what I could do to improve my bike.
My own evaluation of things I could do to improve the G's track performance would be too:
Raise the foot pegs 1 in. and cut them shorter by 2 in., and redo the foot brake and gear levers to match.
Clip-on handlebars.
Gas tank: hammer in or cut away knee reliefs and reliefs for clip on handle bars.
1 person seat that will be lower and forward.
Remove everything behind the seat.
The engine needs at least 25 more horsepower. (how?)
4>1 exhaust, take off the airbox sides and rejet the carbs to match.
The front forks, brakes and wheel should be replaced, with same from a sport bike like a GSXR.
Rear wheel we're stuck with, so that means we have to stay with bias ply tires to match front and rear.
After all that it would:
brake much later and harder
turn much faster
position the rider much lower and able to lean out farther
greater lean angle, (but that 130/90 tire in the back would be a worry)
have more power after the curves.
But that's just my own expressed values, not yours so have fun with your project!
Bill
Gorgous street bike!
Really nice Oosam!
Your project fascinates me because I own a 1100G, and I just took it out for a track day.
It's all stock and performed well, however it's way inferior to the modern sport bikes I was riding with, by about 30 years.
Of course when I got home I thought about what I could do to improve my bike.
My own evaluation of things I could do to improve the G's track performance would be too:
Raise the foot pegs 1 in. and cut them shorter by 2 in., and redo the foot brake and gear levers to match.
Clip-on handlebars.
Gas tank: hammer in or cut away knee reliefs and reliefs for clip on handle bars.
1 person seat that will be lower and forward.
Remove everything behind the seat.
The engine needs at least 25 more horsepower. (how?)
4>1 exhaust, take off the airbox sides and rejet the carbs to match.
The front forks, brakes and wheel should be replaced, with same from a sport bike like a GSXR.
Rear wheel we're stuck with, so that means we have to stay with bias ply tires to match front and rear.
After all that it would:
brake much later and harder
turn much faster
position the rider much lower and able to lean out farther
greater lean angle, (but that 130/90 tire in the back would be a worry)
have more power after the curves.
But that's just my own expressed values, not yours so have fun with your project!
Bill
O
oohsam
Guest
Thanks Bill.
I think I've done all in your list, other than new forks and and the horsepower! haha.
You didn't list brake upgrade! haha..
Im actually quite excited to test out the brakes...
I think I've done all in your list, other than new forks and and the horsepower! haha.
You didn't list brake upgrade! haha..
Im actually quite excited to test out the brakes...
G
Guest
Guest
Those brakes are awesome! Is that the Salty Monk upgrade on the calipers or one you did yourself? I can't remember now and too lazy to search...
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oohsam
Guest
Why thank ya!
No no I cant take credit. its salty Monks.
I did opt for aftermarket CBR rotors though. These are a little blinged..but same diamater...
Salty monk is a champion of a guy. Hooked me up good.
No no I cant take credit. its salty Monks.
I did opt for aftermarket CBR rotors though. These are a little blinged..but same diamater...
Salty monk is a champion of a guy. Hooked me up good.
G
Guest
Guest
Cool, good stuff! Definitely looks like they'll do a great job!
He's currently measuring up to see if the upgrade will work on the 450's also, not sure if I'll go down that path or not but it will definitely be good to know...
He's currently measuring up to see if the upgrade will work on the 450's also, not sure if I'll go down that path or not but it will definitely be good to know...
O
oohsam
Guest
Hey guys,
Need a bit of help. I installed my new braided lines today to the front brakes. I bled the system and had no bubbles.
The brakes work really well, but there is no tension in my brake lever. its very very light, and when i roll the bike forward, i need to pump the lever twice to get the pads to grip. I'm using a GSXR master cylinder. One line comes out of the master cylinder, and goes to a T junction where it splits into 2 lines, one for each brake.
I double checked the bleeding and there are air bubbles in the system...
On my R6, I pull the lever in about 5mm and it grips hard...
There is no bleeder on the master cylinder so I can only bleed from the brakes. Any help is appreciated.
Need a bit of help. I installed my new braided lines today to the front brakes. I bled the system and had no bubbles.
The brakes work really well, but there is no tension in my brake lever. its very very light, and when i roll the bike forward, i need to pump the lever twice to get the pads to grip. I'm using a GSXR master cylinder. One line comes out of the master cylinder, and goes to a T junction where it splits into 2 lines, one for each brake.
I double checked the bleeding and there are air bubbles in the system...
On my R6, I pull the lever in about 5mm and it grips hard...
There is no bleeder on the master cylinder so I can only bleed from the brakes. Any help is appreciated.
G
Guest
Guest
I believe the best and most reliable way to get it done is to get a vacuum bleeder, that way you effectively suck fluid from the master cylinder right through the system, getting rid of those air bubbles as you go.
Mityvac is the name brand but I'm sure there are others as well.
The good thing is they're reversible so you can use them as a hand pump as well.
I have yet to acquire one myself...
Mityvac is the name brand but I'm sure there are others as well.
The good thing is they're reversible so you can use them as a hand pump as well.
I have yet to acquire one myself...
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oohsam
Guest
Yes I've seen this mighty vac. But I cant justify 100 dollars for it! hehe
G
Guest
Guest
Yeah that's my problem too... but having said that, it may be worth while in the long run as you could use it for car brakes and other bikes as well...
H
Hoosier Daddy
Guest
Did you bench bleed the master before you put it on? If you are carefule not to spit fluid anywhere you can bleed it on the bike by cracking the line open at the master and bleed it that way, then once you get clear fluid there, move downstream to the splitter and do the same at the banjo bolt for the two lines. Then chase it down to the calipers.
Systems with splitters can be tough to bleed, acts like an air pocket that is higher than the bleeder. Try putting the bike on the side stand and turn the wheel to the left. This raises the master cylinder to the highest point. Then apply the front brake and tie the brake lever back with a zip-tie. Leave it set that way over night. The next day, take the zip-tie off and slowly release the brakes and apply a few more times... Should help.
There is a tiny orfice in a master cylinder to bleed back pressure once the lever is released and you will probably see small bubbles in the resivour when you release it that first time.
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oohsam
Guest
Thanks for the reply! I never tried bleeding the T Junction...Wasn't sure that I should have 
How do I bench bleed the MC? do you mean by hooking up the brakes and lines while its not on the bike and bleeding it that way first?
I'm considering just taking out the Tpiece, taking off everything of the bike and hooking it up on the bench so the lines are short and trying to bleed it that, then I know if there is an issue with my Tpiece or if I've missed something.
This is driving me nuts.
How do I bench bleed the MC? do you mean by hooking up the brakes and lines while its not on the bike and bleeding it that way first?
I'm considering just taking out the Tpiece, taking off everything of the bike and hooking it up on the bench so the lines are short and trying to bleed it that, then I know if there is an issue with my Tpiece or if I've missed something.
This is driving me nuts.
H
Hoosier Daddy
Guest
"Bench Bleeding" is a term for bleeding the new master cylinder before it's installation. You want to make sure you've removed all the air from it and not shoving bubbles down stream. You can do it on the bike now that it is installed. Remove the single line at the "T" (splitter) that comes from the master and bring it up to the master cylinders reservoir. Hold the line down in the fluid and pump the brakes until you get good clear fluid (no bubbles). Some will come out of the hose and some will come out of the tiny holes at the bottom of the reservoir. Keep pumping the lever until it is ALL clear. Now you have a known good source of hydraulic fluid and can re-attach it down to the splitter. Then you can either bleed the splitter by cracking the lines that go to the calipers there, or down at the calipers themselves. You will need to crack the line (or bleeder), apply the brakes, tighten the line (or bleeder), release the brakes. Repeat.
Never release the brake with the line cracked (or bleeder open) or you will suck air back in... and do not let the reservoir run empty, keep topping it off with fluid, or you will get air back into the master and have to start all over.
When bleeding the caliper, I find it easier to take a small hose that fits tightly on the bleeder (1/4" fuel line) and run it down to a small jar partially filled with fluid, that way you can see the bubbles easier and tell when you have good clear fluid.
Some guys think if you do this you don't need to snug the bleeder every time because you will not get air back into the system since the hose is down in fluid. BUT by not tightening the bleeder you are not chasing the air out, you could have a bubble in the line that just moves back and forth about an inch or two. You need to tighten the bleeders to chase it out a little further with every stroke.
It may take quite a while to get this done, think how much fluid the master pushes with each stroke compared to how much fluid is in the system. If the air bubble is at the top you got a loooong way to push it to get to the calipers bleeder.
Hope that helps, Sorry so long winded... I know some of it may seem basic, but I tried not to overlook anything.
Never release the brake with the line cracked (or bleeder open) or you will suck air back in... and do not let the reservoir run empty, keep topping it off with fluid, or you will get air back into the master and have to start all over.
When bleeding the caliper, I find it easier to take a small hose that fits tightly on the bleeder (1/4" fuel line) and run it down to a small jar partially filled with fluid, that way you can see the bubbles easier and tell when you have good clear fluid.
Some guys think if you do this you don't need to snug the bleeder every time because you will not get air back into the system since the hose is down in fluid. BUT by not tightening the bleeder you are not chasing the air out, you could have a bubble in the line that just moves back and forth about an inch or two. You need to tighten the bleeders to chase it out a little further with every stroke.
It may take quite a while to get this done, think how much fluid the master pushes with each stroke compared to how much fluid is in the system. If the air bubble is at the top you got a loooong way to push it to get to the calipers bleeder.
Hope that helps, Sorry so long winded... I know some of it may seem basic, but I tried not to overlook anything.
O
oohsam
Guest
Going outside now to try!
O
oohsam
Guest
So i tried bench bleeding the mc. took off the hose attatched to the mc from the splitter and submerged it into the reservoir and started pumping. after 15 mins of constant pukping there were still bubbles coming out of the reservoir. i kept this up for another 15 mins and tiny tiny bubbles were still appearing. i really have a feeling my master cylinder is leaking....does it normally take this long or am i being impatient.
H
Hoosier Daddy
Guest
It can take a while... try not to "Jack" the lever too fast, but take it slow and steady strokes. If you pump it really fast you are breaking the air pocket into little bity bubbles and it will take longer to get them all out. Also be sure your hose fitting at the master cyl is tight so it's not letting air back in.
Good news is your getting air out!!! That is exactly what you want to see. Super small "Micro" bubbles are a good sign, you are about done. You can probably re-attach it to the splitter and move on down to the calipers.
Good news is your getting air out!!! That is exactly what you want to see. Super small "Micro" bubbles are a good sign, you are about done. You can probably re-attach it to the splitter and move on down to the calipers.
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oohsam
Guest
Thanks for the update Hooiser.
I hate doing this. I hate it so much. lol
I hate doing this. I hate it so much. lol
G
GSJohnny
Guest
What are the specs on those tires? They look great... the rear looks like it has more of a taller curve on the tire surface. Am I wrong? Is there any reason why they wouldn't fit on my 80 GS1000G?
Thanks
~GSJohnny
Thanks
~GSJohnny
O
oohsam
Guest
Hey Johnny boy.
The specs are as follows
130/80-17 (Rear) & 100/90/19 (Front)
They are PIRELLI SCORPION TRAIL DUAL PURPOSE tyres.
The are wicked, and they are also not too expensive. They are designed for touring and a little bit of off road...i think 90% road 10% off if you ever need to go offroad.
On other news. I bench bled the MC as your advice Hoosier, did it slow and steady this time. Got all the bubbles out. Then I hooked it up to the T Piece, then tried to bleed the calipers. Was not getting much joy.
So I hooked up my syringe and started to suck fluid out. Lots and lots of bubbles were coming out. Kept doing this on each side till no more was coming out.
Checked the lever and I have tension there.
Its not heaps, but I cant pull back the lever all the way no, only half way.
I tried to keep bleeding but I couldn't get any more bubbles out.
So I zip tied the brake lever. And am just waiting overnight to see if that relieves any more bubbles... will let you know
I'm very happy to get to this stage! Thanks for the advice. I have a sneaky suspicion I may have got some air in the MC that may need to be bleeded...but i'll wait till tomorrow to see if my zip tie trick worked before I start cracking open the banjo bolt to bleed.
Might also try bleeding the T piece ifI cant bleed anything else..
woohoo..
The specs are as follows
130/80-17 (Rear) & 100/90/19 (Front)
They are PIRELLI SCORPION TRAIL DUAL PURPOSE tyres.
The are wicked, and they are also not too expensive. They are designed for touring and a little bit of off road...i think 90% road 10% off if you ever need to go offroad.
On other news. I bench bled the MC as your advice Hoosier, did it slow and steady this time. Got all the bubbles out. Then I hooked it up to the T Piece, then tried to bleed the calipers. Was not getting much joy.
So I hooked up my syringe and started to suck fluid out. Lots and lots of bubbles were coming out. Kept doing this on each side till no more was coming out.
Checked the lever and I have tension there.
Its not heaps, but I cant pull back the lever all the way no, only half way.
I tried to keep bleeding but I couldn't get any more bubbles out.
So I zip tied the brake lever. And am just waiting overnight to see if that relieves any more bubbles... will let you know
I'm very happy to get to this stage! Thanks for the advice. I have a sneaky suspicion I may have got some air in the MC that may need to be bleeded...but i'll wait till tomorrow to see if my zip tie trick worked before I start cracking open the banjo bolt to bleed.
Might also try bleeding the T piece ifI cant bleed anything else..
woohoo..
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