Gs1150 clutch upgrade

[Pbstn]

1986 1150. Stock. Under 10k miles. Noticed some clutch slipping. Looking for suggestions /opinions on upgrading clutch. Tia

 

[rphillips]

OOhh, that's not a normal problem, hub problems are normal, but not slipping, especially at 10K. You don't use any kind of oil additive or super slick oils are you?

 

[Pbstn]

Valvoline 10w40 conventional 4 stroke oil. I did adjust the clutch but have not ridden it yet.

 

[Rob S.]

I did adjust the clutch but have not ridden it yet.

Then there's still hope.

How annoying is a slipping clutch? Everything works, as long as you accelerate gently. I don't think we bought big bore in line fours to accelerate gently. (I can hear a few bikes winding out in the distance - the siren call! :sorrow

 

[Carter Turk]

Maybe try new clutch cable or/& heavy duty clutch springs, as the cheapest first step.
All the gray hairs complain about it being to stiff, but it really isn't.
Grey myself, no issues.
That & a clutch cover gasket, what maybe $60ish?
I have an 1150 since 1996, experienced slippage myself & sometimes it's related to lever adjustment at the bar or the adjustment on the engine case.
Or the actuator arm on the clutch cover is too far in, as in less than 6 oclock.
Steel & fiber clutch plates will obviously set you back more.
If it ends up too stiff, seems some people try to use 3 HD, 3 oem, springs, never tried that thou.

 

[Suzukian]

You should get 30 to 40K out off a clutch with civil riding. 20K if you beat the snot out of it. It was probably an oil that you used. If the plates sucked up too much of the stuff, disassembly, and a good cleaning with "Brakleen" might bring them back, but if I had it apart, I'd just put in a new clutch. I use Valvoline oil exclusively, that may clear up the problem.

 

[Nessism]

I'd try a new set of stock clutch springs first. They are cheap and often fix the issue. Reason being, after 40 years on the bike, in the compressed position, the springs often take a set. Change the springs, and consider a new cable too, or at least lube the old one, and make sure it's adjusted properly. If that fails, you can add 1/2 set of HD springs. That will increase hand effort, though. Last resort, replace the friction discs and springs. OEM fibers are the best. Whatever you do, don't get one of those "extra plate" kits, because they notch out the hub, and you don't want that.

 

[Rich82GS750TZ]

Pbstn does not state if the Valvoline 10w40 he's using is JASO/MA or MA2 designated for use in wet clutches. Does the term "conventional" mean dino/not sythetic?

Some light reading, not that we needed to turn this into another oil thread. I'll probably regret this.

https://blog.amsoil.com/whats-the-difference-between-jaso-ma-and-jaso-ma2-oil/

 

[Pbstn]

Valvoline 10w40 four sroke oil. Non synthetic.

 

[Rich82GS750TZ]

But is it designated JASO MA or MA2?

 

[Cipher]

Adjust clutch per manual.

 

[Cipher]

But is it designated JASO MA or MA2?

Ma2 is for catalytic convertors

 

[Rich82GS750TZ]

Ma2 is for catalytic convertors

Yes, but wouldn’t it still be suitable for a motorcycle wet clutch, more so than an oil without any JASO MA rating? Legit question, I’m asking and learning.

from this site, just the first site that came up when I googled MA2: https://www.rymax-lubricants.com/updates/what-does-the-jaso-oil-specification-mean/

• JASO MA: This is the standard specification for oils that are used within one oil system (where the engine, gearbox and clutch use the same oil). These oils don’t contain any friction modifiers.
• JASO MA1: This is a lower standard specification for motorcycles that require different oils for the engine, gearbox and clutch.
• JASO MA2: This is a higher standard specification for modern motorcycles. These oils are suitable for use in motorcycles that have catalytic converters in the exhaust system.
• JASO MB: This is a lower standard specification for scooter engines.

​
And there we did it (well, I guess I did it). Turned this into another oil thread. I have not much knowledge to fuel a debate. So I won’t. Just thought that the subject of the oil’s rating, friction modifiers, or lack there of, was pertinent to the topic of reasons that wet clutches slip.

 

[Pbstn]

Full clutch adjustment. All good now. A blast to ride.

 

[rphillips]

That's the reason for the adage, "do simplest cheapest things first". Don't get much easier and cheaper than adjusting. Congrats.

 

[dorkburger]

If the clutch friction discs are original they may have hardened over time making them prone to slipping. My 1150 had sat for 12 years before my buying it in 1999. Initially the clutch was stuck, but after freeing it up, it slipped. With all else (cables, adjustment, steels, etc) being ok, I replaced the friction discs and it's been good 29k miles since. The friction material on the originals was rock hard.

 

[Suzukian]

Easy to fix slippery clutch plates. Light wire brush from center too outside stroke, they will then bite.