Someone here knows, but you've gotta figure it's a
changing crowd of blind jellies that can't see or touch your bike. You can search the forum and with so many ideas and questions , one will ring the bell. But you have to be really plain. a half hassed spraybombing of carbs disassembled will not satisfy - You personally have to be really sure every passage is clear, every jet has been removed and cleaned.that the floats and fuel inlet needle are functioning correctly or none of our pellets of goodwill will hit the mark.
now the symptom is "Throttle is slow to respond" or "Throttle is delayed". per the video? basically you strangled something but what?
"Bogging" well, you'd be suprised how that turns out to be a single cylinder not working. Has for me. These bikes can sound deceptively good with just one cylinder happening!
Pods are a wild card for me-never had em ,but it should not be too hard to separate their specific tuning issues from the original bike. For one thing, you are likely doing the same to each one so both cylinders are going to be equally affected.
but
Since it's unlikely(but not impossible, unfortunately without a proper cleanup) that
both carbs,pistons,valve sets,coils have the same issue, it'd be good to find if a difference exists side to side. If there's no difference, you can look elsewhere, before returning to the possibility that they are both b*ggred in the same way... twins are so easy. . Not good for the bike longterm but it should start and run with just one. If pulling the plug to do this keep a plug in the lead clamped to engine or otherwise ground that plug lead
someone else here might correct me please but
The stuff about "air" and lean and advanced timing should also have the symptom of no power,I think... so putting a lean/advanced bike in gear is not going to be the same as a bike with "too much gas".Too much gas will keep going with a footbrake applied lean,advanced should falter pretty quick .
The "enricher" aka "choke" is a possible. These aren't butterflies as you know-they are sucking gas from the bowl so If it's not turning off all the way on one or both carbs, then your bike would be getting too much gas...yes, full "choke" will nearly kill a warmed engine-perhaps what you are saying per
If the choke lever is not fully down, the bike won't even start and instantly stalls if I change it during idle.
but partial "choke" keep it running highrpm
with power, (unlike the lean condition)
These and the idlemix are hard passages to clean by the way. I cleaned mine mechanically and test that each has flow by pumping solvents through them.
