GS750ES Oil Lines

[salty_monk]

These oil lines cost $61 a piece! They join the bottom & top of the engine with the top linking to some other pipes internally for lubricating the cams.

I have 2 sets (1 set fitted & a spare set from a parts 700). They both show signs of leaking & looking at my friends 750 his show the same signs too....

This got me thinking about replacement.

I did some research on brake lines. Goodridge, Galfer etc quote 460f temp limits on their brake lines so that should be a pass....
The banjo (for the bolt) is the correct size so that's a pass....

2 things that worry me:

1. The hole in the banjo is smaller in the brake line. With the Goodridge lines or earls I believe this could likely be opened up from the back with the appropriate sized drill.

2. With the banjo holes opened up would the pipe bore of line be sufficient to give correct oil flow.

I believe the Banjo hole should be the restrictor so in theory this should work out...

Thoughts please before I give this a go!

Dan

 

[posplayr]

These oil lines cost $61 a piece! They join the bottom & top of the engine with the top linking to some other pipes internally for lubricating the cams.

I have 2 sets (1 set fitted & a spare set from a parts 700). They both show signs of leaking & looking at my friends 750 his show the same signs too....

This got me thinking about replacement.

I did some research on brake lines. Goodridge, Galfer etc quote 460f temp limits on their brake lines so that should be a pass....
The banjo (for the bolt) is the correct size so that's a pass....

2 things that worry me:

1. The hole in the banjo is smaller in the brake line. With the Goodridge lines or earls I believe this could likely be opened up from the back with the appropriate sized drill.

2. With the banjo holes opened up would the pipe bore of line be sufficient to give correct oil flow.

I believe the Banjo hole should be the restrictor so in theory this should work out...

Thoughts please before I give this a go!

Dan

Give ParagonPerformance a call and let them know what you want. I use them all the time. The issue is going to be those metric banjos but maybe they can source them.

I have found conversions so with some fittings you could switch to standard NPT or AN hose as well.

 

[salty_monk]

Didn't you pay a lot of $$ for your lines as well though?? This is partly a budget exercise (i.e. I don't want to pay $120 for them) & partly that I want something that's not going to go the same way....

They appear to start leaking from the back end of the crimps.

I will give them a shout though. Flicking through their website the only stuff with 10mm Banjo's is listed as brake or hydraulic.

 

[posplayr]

Didn't you pay a lot of $$ for your lines as well though?? This is partly a budget exercise (i.e. I don't want to pay $120 for them) & partly that I want something that's not going to go the same way....

They appear to start leaking from the back end of the crimps.

I will give them a shout though. Flicking through their website the only stuff with 10mm Banjo's is listed as brake or hydraulic.

They can make anything you want if they have the parts. What size are those banjos? 14mm?


http://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchan...p&Product_Code=ATP-FTG-012&Category_Code=GTBB

This is the problem every time you have to connect it is $15 and so going OEM might be the cheapest after all unless you can find some on ebay. This is the same basic problem with getting oil cooler lines made up. Costs twice as much fitting as the cost of the cooler hoses and anything else.

 

[Clone]

I looked at getting them made for my bike, the top is an 8mm 30deg offset and the bottom is a 10mm 30deg offset. Neither seem to exist. there are all kinds of 10mm banjos with differing offset, but could not get an 8mm. If you find such a creature, post where you found it.

 

[salty_monk]

Ok will do. I didn't realise one was 8mm, the one I checked was 10mm.

Dan

 

[Nessism]

Dan,
Read in a different thread about one guys suggestion to carefully cut the old line apart and extract the banjo fittings, which are somewhat unique, and then take them to a hose shop of some sort and have them install a new piece of rubber hose. There is a place in Carson/Compton called Mr. Hose that should be able to do the crimp work as long as you have useable banjos. Just thinking out loud in case you hit a brick wall about finding the correct pieces to make your own.

 

[jwhelan65]

Dan,

Go to page 7 post #62 here..Eric did these on his 700 thought it might help.

Joe

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=144220&page=7

 

[salty_monk]

Good idea Ed. As I have two sets of these lines I may well experiment with one set.....

Wonder how the best way is to extract them, presumably I can grind carefully through the crimp which should be separate to the actual banjo itself....

Dan

 

[posplayr]

Good idea Ed. As I have two sets of these lines I may well experiment with one set.....

Wonder how the best way is to extract them, presumably I can grind carefully through the crimp which should be separate to the actual banjo itself....

Dan

I used a Dremel, it is a like a deeply barbed fitting with the stop far up on the hose. With mine I replaced with SS line and hose clamps and would still leak.

 

[Nessism]

Good idea Ed. As I have two sets of these lines I may well experiment with one set.....

Wonder how the best way is to extract them, presumably I can grind carefully through the crimp which should be separate to the actual banjo itself....

Dan

Mr. Hose is on Wilmington Ave, near the 405 freeway. They make industrial hoses for heavy machinery. Might not be cheap, but I bet they do it right. Just be sure to measure the banjo clocking in some way, or better yet, take the banjos loose on one set and bring the other set so they can see how they need to be clocked.