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GSX400E Project Suzzie.

  • Thread starter Thread starter Runeight
  • Start date Start date
R

Runeight

Guest
Let me introduce Suzzie. She was born 02/82 with the last digits on the VIN of 100398. Pretty early model I would say and delivered to Toronto, Canada. Purchased by the owner I bought it from on 01/83. Brought into VA and titled.

As soon as I walked down the driveway to help with the off load I could see she was well preserved. Yes, a couple of scrapes and bumps obviously but nothing major. The originality is what impressed me most. Paperwork shows several services through it's life.

Glamor shot.

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Instruments are in great nick, handlebars clean. Bent levers, easily replaced. Chrome around bezels is perfect.

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Headlight, chrome ring and chrome turn signal bezel is also perfect.

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Paint should polish up nicely. Dent does not look as bad as the original pictures I was sent.

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Inside is just perfect! Had drained the tank when stored.

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Exhaust in great shape. Nothing rusted through that I can see at this time. Surface rust on the left.

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Right side a little worse. I'll clean best I can for now.

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Keep in mind I have not given her a bath. Trailer to lift.

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Next thread...
 
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continuing..

continuing..

Continuing on.

Right side of motor.

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Tires replaced two years ago. Still have the stripe between the tread. Perfect condition front and rear.

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And her cute behind.

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Curious what's under the seat. You can't open with the luggage rack installed. Don't know what they were thinking here but my best guess it's not the proper rack for this model. Sissy bar heads for the trash unless someone wants it for a old school build but I'll hang onto the rack. Hard to find anymore.

Well, there you are folks. To say I'm jazzed would be an understatement. 9447 US miles, all original minus sissy bar and rack. $550 invested.

Oh, I forgot. Plated and titled in Arizona today. Done deal!
 
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I've found parts I wish to order but CMS I believe is in the Netherlands. Yikes! One in Canada?

Thanks.
 
Try Murray at Modern Motorcycling in Vancouver, BC. He's got tons of NOS parts. Just google the company for contact info and email him the part numbers you need. With our dollar the parts should be pretty inexpensive.
 
You knew I'd be along:cheerful:Glad you're happy with it!To bad about the acid spill on the right side.Do an AMG to avoid a repeat performance.Hope you can find someone to get that crease out,while I like red to it would be nice to keep her original.Sounds like you have one more reason to ditch the rack to;)
 
Welcome aboard! I see you are from Canada. Any parts soure your way?

Yeah, not much you can do but order new, which I will, along with side covers. As far as the tank it's just to dang clean. Spotless. I'll shop around to see what I can do. Might look ok, might not.

Question: Can you remove plugs with out removing fuel tank? Want to soak the cylinders for a bit.
 
Welcome aboard! I see you are from Canada. Any parts soure your way?

Yeah, not much you can do but order new, which I will, along with side covers. As far as the tank it's just to dang clean. Spotless. I'll shop around to see what I can do. Might look ok, might not.

Question: Can you remove plugs with out removing fuel tank? Want to soak the cylinders for a bit.

Yes; you just need the right plug socket and the right length extension. Might as well get that now. Also, blow away any gravel that has collected around the plug base before you take them out; it lurks in behind waiting for an opportunity to jump in.

I'd take the tank off anyway, and also the valve cover and ignition cover. If you tap around the edge of the cover it will usually come free without tearing the gasket, which can be re used or repaired. Then you can gently [with the big nut, not the little 10mm bolt] ease the motor [clockwise] into motion. Given that pistons and rings are almost unavailable for this motor, you don't want to do anything rude to them, so some oil and care is prudent. From what I've seen, it is imperative that the valves be kept in adjustment or the valves will burn. On the 4 valve motor the head can crack and the cam followers will gall up if there isn't enough clearance.

The good part is that these motors have a relatively straightforward screw and locknut valve adjustment rather than the shims that have to be sourced and changed. The procedure is the same as for the four cylinder 4 valve motors. The valve cover gasket is still available [in Canada] and probably the head gasket as well, but by the look of it you won't be needing many parts. The block is the same as the US 450 model, so anything 'below the belt' is easy. Plus, many basic parts were carried over to the GS500 so are still current.

If all fails, you can put a 450 top end on this block, which is what I just did with a spare motor that had a cracked head. This also solves the problem of the 10:1 compression ratio which is really not compatible with a lot of the fuel these days. Due to insurance restrictions at 400cc in Canada, they sent us the Euro motor which was set up for 92 - 94 octane gas. It will run on 92 but ethanol free 94 is immediately noticeable as being right.

I have over 60,000 kilometres on my '82 motor and it still runs like new, but it's always been maintained.
 
Thank John. Yeah, I just drained the tank. Going to just remove it and give the motor a good cleaning.
 
Well, as usual the entire fuel system needs a going through. Carburetors and petcock. Drained the tank from the fuel cap, nothing out the petcock. Come to think of it is it vacuum operated? Might be the issue. There is a line from the right carburetor to the petcock.

Polished the tank.

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Cleaned up the cases a little. Not finished however. Soaking cylinders.

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Now this doesn't look correct. That negative cable is huge. The positive looks small to me but original.

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I have a friend who will make me up some nice cables. Think I'll just do both of them.

To be continued....
 
Can anyone tell me if the carburetors were the same between the 1982 GSX400E and the US spec 1983 GS450E? A lot of parts interchange I'm finding out.

Part numbers are different of course but the carburetors appear to be the same. Mikuni BS34SS.

Thanks in advance. Sourcing rebuild parts. Email into Modern Motorcycle in Canada also.
 
The last few days I have been glued to the computer. Yes, many are the same. Several emails in about the only main issue are the diaphragm's. Very specific. I haven't got to the carburetors yet so I'm hoping they are fine. Very expensive. I'm also working on the O ring set from recommendations given here.

Used a test battery and have everything working as far as headlight, tail and stop, turns and gauges. There is no power to the starter using the starter button so I tested the starter solenoid and don't get a reading. (Ohms) I tested voltage and get 12 +/- from the battery side but nothing out the starter side. Thinking it's done for.

Looking for a used one if anybody has a spare otherwise I'll have to order a new one.

Have lots to update so I'll try and get to that this weekend. Bike cleaned up nice. Going to clean up the electrical then move to carburetors. I would like to get this running before any more parts are ordered.
 
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A light just came on. I need to test the starter side when the starter button is pushed to complete the circuit. Should have a ohm reading regardless I would think.
 
Moving forward...

Moving forward...

Quite a bit accomplished.

The seat cleaned up nice and is in very good condition.

SAM_0297.jpg


SAM_0296.jpg


Removed more body parts for cleaning covering electrical parts.

image.jpeg


Then a good cleaning.

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SAM_0301.jpg


SAM_0304.jpg


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SAM_0303.jpg


The wheels have some imperfections so I'll work on those at a much later date.

A little polish on the tank. To bad the other side is dented.

SAM_0287.jpg


SAM_0289.jpg
 
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The switch check out fine. On to the starter button. If that checks then it's the starter. (Frown)
 
The last few days I have been glued to the computer. Yes, many are the same. Several emails in about the only main issue are the diaphragm's. Very specific. I haven't got to the carburetors yet so I'm hoping they are fine. Very expensive. I'm also working on the O ring set from recommendations given here.

Used a test battery and have everything working as far as headlight, tail and stop, turns and gauges. There is no power to the starter using the starter button so I tested the starter solenoid and don't get a reading. (Ohms) I tested voltage and get 12 +/- from the battery side but nothing out the starter side. Thinking it's done for.

Looking for a used one if anybody has a spare otherwise I'll have to order a new one.

Have lots to update so I'll try and get to that this weekend. Bike cleaned up nice. Going to clean up the electrical then move to carburetors. I would like to get this running before any more parts are ordered.
I my experience the diaphragms are pretty tough.Yes I've heard of them having holes but I haven't seen any myself,of course I might be lucky to.
For a starter solenoid look at the garden tractor ones,less than 1/2 the price and only the eagle eyed can tell the difference.Try a home improvement store.
Edit: Drat my slow 1 finger typing.
 
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Fortunately the switch is fine. Testing from the button down to the switch next.

With the button depressed there is no reading at the switch on the green/yellow wire. If the starter button checks out I'll pull the starter next checking the brush.
 
Ever been told to not read more into it? Exactly. Electrical is sorted. Now, I'm not familiar with pulling in the clutch while in neutral to start a bike however after longer than I want to admit here that was the issue. Inside the switch, inside the headlight, testing here, testing there. Could not get power to the solenoid when pushing the start button.

Turned the motor over this morning. Feels good, nice resistance. Carburetor removal next but man, that air box looks like a challenge.

onward...
 
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