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hard clutch 77 gs 550

  • Thread starter Thread starter steveq
  • Start date Start date
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steveq

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hi guys, i was wondering if anyone can offer any help.ive just replaced the clutch actuator on my 77 550, the old one having been split, but the clutch lever is exessively hard to use, the lever will engage the clutch, its just very hard, would this be something to do with the clutch plates or springs? ive checked the cable and it moves freely. also, the clutch push rod? comes out of the actuator side and is about 4 inches long and 1/4 inch thick, in the parts manual, it seems to show that the push rod is longer than this. any info would be a great help as ive had her for 12 months and havent riden her yet!
 
By 'clutch actuator', I think it's called release screw assembly in the parts fiche - the big white delrin thing where the clutch cable connects inside of the sprocket cover? (#25 in the part fiche):
http://www.partshark.com/fiche_imag...ZUKI&category=Motorcycles&dc=5364&name=CLUTCH

If so, you may not have 'indexed' it correctly when screwing it into the sprocket cover (it's sticking out too much). It should screw in most of the way?

When installing the sprocket cover, did you have to 'force' it on when tightening the sprocket cover screws as if it were pushing on the clutch release rod?
 
hi there, thanks for the advice- yes, the cover was firm when it was refitted, ill check it out, but ive got a feeling that there is more to it than that.when i purchased the bike, it had been sitting for many years in a sad state, the bloke i purchased it of was a "back yard mechanic" and supposedly had worked on it a bit to get it started. while ive been restoring the old girl, ive found many things that were done incorrectly including wiring, carbys etc, after reading your reply i examined the crank cover and have discovered that this has been removed at some stage as the retaining bolt heads have been mutilated in an attempt to remove the cover as well as this the oil seal holder is broken and the old release screw assy casing was split, indicating that there was a problem before i purchased the bike. im going to remove the clutch today and examine it for damage- could anyone give me an indictation as to what to look for? thanks heaps, steve
 
Steve, the clutch pushrod should be a one piece affair. If it's in two parts that could be your problem. Under normal circumstances the pushrod can only be withdrawn after the clutch has been disassembled. It does not come out the LH side of the transmission where the clutch actuating mechanism is. If the clutch is hard then look for stuck plates inside the clutch and generally follow the movement of the mechanism to see where the apparent stiffness is. Good luck.

BTW update your location so we know where in Australia you are. Australia is a big place. Also update your signature with your bike details.
 
Most likely the actuation helix is out of phase with where it needs to be inside the cover. I'd take it out and move it to another position and see if that fixes the problem.
 
Most likely the actuation helix is out of phase with where it needs to be inside the cover. I'd take it out and move it to another position and see if that fixes the problem.

Chances are Ed's got it bang on - seen this loads of times on loads of Zooks.
 
Most likely the actuation helix is out of phase with where it needs to be inside the cover. I'd take it out and move it to another position and see if that fixes the problem.

This was covered in Post # 2 guys. Hopefully now that it's been mention three times in six posts he will make doubly sure he has checked it and even gone back to his manual to make sure he has done it the correct way.

While I'm on that point it does pay to have the workshop manual in the workshop, that's why it's called a WORKSHOP MANUAL. It's much more use there than in the house, living room, library, study,etc. The other option is to print out the relevant sheets from your electronic copy and throw away the dirty finger marked sheets when finished.
 
This was covered in Post # 2 guys. Hopefully now that it's been mention three times in six posts he will make doubly sure he has checked it and even gone back to his manual to make sure he has done it the correct way.

While I'm on that point it does pay to have the workshop manual in the workshop, that's why it's called a WORKSHOP MANUAL. It's much more use there than in the house, living room, library, study,etc. The other option is to print out the relevant sheets from your electronic copy and throw away the dirty finger marked sheets when finished.
Could it be that chinga dera under the sprocket cover that presses on the clutch rod? :rolleyes:
 
This was covered in Post # 2 guys. Hopefully now that it's been mention three times in six posts he will make doubly sure he has checked it and even gone back to his manual to make sure he has done it the correct way.

Hey Don,

Just to be perfectly clear, I think the problem may be related to the indexing of the helix.:D What do you think?:?::?::?::?::?::?::?::?:
 
thanks

thanks

thanks for all the advice guys, i feel confident enough to strip the clutch now,and now know what to look for, but first ill check the helix on the clutch release assy just in case thats all it is, ill post a reply on the outcome thanks heaps, steve:pray:
 
Hey Don,

Just to be perfectly clear, I think the problem may be related to the indexing of the helix.:D What do you think?:?::?::?::?::?::?::?::?:

I think you could be on to something here ED.

Steve do you have a manual for the 550, it will show you how to do it.
 
While I'm on that point it does pay to have the workshop manual in the workshop, that's why it's called a WORKSHOP MANUAL. It's much more use there than in the house, living room, library, study,etc.

Don - you've missed a very important alternative. Leave the manual in the house and bring the bike indoors....:D

Unfortunately my wife wouldn't allow it as the tyre marks might ruin the carpet, though I have suggested throwing the carpet out - I even pointed out that it would save her having to vacuum so often....
 
Don - you've missed a very important alternative. Leave the manual in the house and bring the bike indoors....:D

Unfortunately my wife wouldn't allow it as the tyre marks might ruin the carpet, though I have suggested throwing the carpet out - I even pointed out that it would save her having to vacuum so often....

Yeah Josh, that one slipped by me. And even if the bike leaks oil on the floorboards with a bit of varnish it can be claimed it gives the house that old style rustic look.
 
i think i found it!

i think i found it!

hey guys, ive just stripped the clutch,examined, cleaned and refitted- eveything checks out -except for the clutch springs. according to the manual(wonderful things those manuals!) the free length should be 38.4mm when new and the wear limit is 35.9mm.apon measuring mine they are all 36mm, would this difference of 2.4mm make all the difference- making the clutch harder to operate? any guidance is greatly appriecated, regards, steve:)
 
what the hell is that?

what the hell is that?

hey guys, now im totally confused. i went out and removed the clutch push rod-guess what? like someone told me earlier, the push rod is only supposed to come out from the clutch side- mine (part of it) comes out from the release side i removed the clutch plates, and the push piece and found the other peice of the push rod. i compared this to the parts manual and it looks like someone has attempted to make up thier own version of the push rod in 2 parts as it is DEFINATELY not the right part so now im guessing that this is is the sole reason for the clutch problems . ill order a new push rod along with springs would alpha sports be as good as any to order pasrts from? please give me your ideas on this as i know that someone has seriously messed with this bike!:confused:
 
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