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having a stupid clutch issue...

  • Thread starter Thread starter gribstar
  • Start date Start date
G

gribstar

Guest
OK, first time posting so bear with me guys lol. I just replaced the clutch plates in my GS550E, and put the bike back together with everything done to spec according to manual.now it does not work....if I kick her down into first with the clutch pulled in it takes off, and the weird part is when I pull the clutch i can see the basket move out, so I know it's right.......I've had it apart 3 times today and i'll be damned if I cant figure it out...please someone throw some wisdom upon me!!
 
Last edited:
Just a wild guess, but did you install aftermarket "heavy duty" clutch springs?

It's pretty common for these to make the clutch action really heavy and in many cases they won't release all the way. The solution is a fresh set of OEM Suzuki clutch springs.

Also, what brand were the clutch plates, and did you oil them before installation? Results with aftermarket clutch plates have been mixed.

What situation prompted you to change the clutch plates? It's unheard-of for a stock GS clutch to ever actually wear out. It is fairly common for GS clutches to start slipping after 30 years as the springs sag, but the solution is simply new OEM Suzuki clutch springs -- again, do NOT install heavy-duty aftermarket springs. If you slipped the clutch an unconscionable amount, it's possible one or more of the steels could be warped.
 
gribstar said:
OK, first time posting so bear with me guys lol. I just replaced the clutch plates in my GS550E, and put the bike back together with everything done to spec according to manual.now it does not work....if I kick her down into first with the clutch pulled in it takes off, and the weird part is when I pull the clutch i can see the basket move out, so I know it's right.......I've had it apart 3 times today and i'll be damned if I cant figure it out...please someone throw some wisdom upon me!!
Click to expand...

If you mean the entire basket moves then the nut may be loose. The plates should move, not the basket. Possible explanation was that the basket was not engaged with the pump drive when tightened.
 
I decided to tear it apart because the clutch was slipping, I found that the driven plates were stuck in grooves they made on the pressure plate. so i cleaned up the grooves just a tad with a file and slapped it all back together. i bought the ebc standard friction disks, and pre oiled everything before reassembly...
 
Brendan W said:
If you mean the entire basket moves then the nut may be loose. The plates should move, not the basket. Possible explanation was that the basket was not engaged with the pump drive when tightened.
Click to expand...
I'm sorry, i meant the pressure plate was moving out, not the entire basket.
 
I bet you got the arm (where the cable attaches) on the pinion shaft (in the clutch cover) off 1-2 teeth.

Where the wrench is....

100_4532.jpg
 
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OK, I figured it out....apparently my file job wasn't the greatest....I got another clutch assembly from ebay, and used that basket and pressure plate.Now it works like a charm....I'm never filing anything ever again!!:p
 
Hi.

I have a problem with my clutch, that sound very similar to yours.

I had a slipping clutch on my GS750 78? so I replaced the clutch plates. But now when I turn the bike on and put in first, the bike takes of with the clutch pulled. So I?m very curios to hear how you solved your problem.

I have reused the old clutch springs, since the after-marked ones I got seemed to long.

Any ideas?
 
There is an adjuster on the left side of the engine sprocket cover, the small cover heald on with 3 screws. Remove that cover, under there is a nut and screw. Give plenty slack on the cable adjusters, loosen the nut and with a screwdriver turn clockwise the screw till you feel resistance. Now turn screw anticlockwise quarter to half turn and tighten the nut without the screw turning. Now adjust the cable slack. That adjuster is for the free play on the clutch pushrod. If the clutch still drags you have another issue, possible warped steel clutch disks or friction disk fingers stuck on wear grooves in the basket.hope this info helps.
 
Thanks.

I tried what you suggested with no luck.:( I?m gonna drain the oil and have a look at the plates again. In my manual it says to "tighten the bolts fully" - does that mean that there is no torgue setting for the bolts that holds the clutch springs?

Should I try the aftermarket springs even though my manual recommend a springs length at 40,4mm and the aftermarket is about 44 mm?



uk gs nut said:
There is an adjuster on the left side of the engine sprocket cover, the small cover heald on with 3 screws. Remove that cover, under there is a nut and screw. Give plenty slack on the cable adjusters, loosen the nut and with a screwdriver turn clockwise the screw till you feel resistance. Now turn screw anticlockwise quarter to half turn and tighten the nut without the screw turning. Now adjust the cable slack. That adjuster is for the free play on the clutch pushrod. If the clutch still drags you have another issue, possible warped steel clutch disks or friction disk fingers stuck on wear grooves in the basket.hope this info helps.
Click to expand...
 
Bosteen said:
Thanks.

I tried what you suggested with no luck.:( I?m gonna drain the oil and have a look at the plates again. In my manual it says to "tighten the bolts fully" - does that mean that there is no torgue setting for the bolts that holds the clutch springs?

Should I try the aftermarket springs even though my manual recommend a springs length at 40,4mm and the aftermarket is about 44 mm?
Click to expand...

Tighten the clutch springs bolts fully? Think that is wrong. There is only about 8-9.5 ft/lbs on those springs, they have to be able to move.
 
mrbill5491 said:
Tighten the clutch springs bolts fully? Think that is wrong. There is only about 8-9.5 ft/lbs on those springs, they have to be able to move.
Click to expand...

Yes - I had a suspicion that something was off. But I can?t find a torque index for those bolts anywhere. Any ideas where to look?
 
mrbill5491 said:
Tighten the clutch springs bolts fully? Think that is wrong. There is only about 8-9.5 ft/lbs on those springs, they have to be able to move.
Click to expand...

The bolts do not move; they hold the springs in place. The torque spec is typical for that size bolt into aluminum. Don't get creative.
 
Do not over torque them or you'll strip them. And make sure you rotate from one bolt to another when either you're loosening or tightening them or they can strip. Also, there's no need to drain your oil to go back into the clutch bracket, just put the bike on it's side stand. More than enough angle for the oil to go to the left side of the engine.
 
Thanks. That?s nice to know. I doing this outside, so its nice that I dont have to drain the oil again.
 
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