Head and base gasket prep - how clean is clean

[Dan]

First time inside an engine this far. Learning a lot. Cleaning the barrels, not sure how much scrubbing / dremeling / chemicals, etc., to do on the gasket surfaces, top and bottom. I know this isn't near done, but it seems like the metal is intentionally roughened up in those areas? Or is it just age and a 40 year old gasket? How smooth should it get? I don't want to damage the surfaces.

Note - not the best picture. Some of the surface is still wet.

Thanks, Dan

 

[Big T]

Those surfaces are not smooth
Lots of people use a Rolock for that
Think scotchbrite as a drill attachement
Or a plastic paint removing disc

 

[GregT]

Those surfaces are not smooth
Lots of people use a Rolock for that
Think scotchbrite as a drill attachement
Or a plastic paint removing disc

Please don't use anything powered to clean the gasket surfaces. A sharp blade gently used to remove any gasket left - then scotchbrite used wet and again gently to leave the surfaces dead clean.

 

[Guest]

I personally use a long 600 grit sanding block for gasket surfaces when doing garage rebuilds. 3M makes a 10" hard foam block that I've grown to love for prepping surfaces. Just don't sand low spots into the surface.
I also use copper gasket coating on the gaskets before I reassemble. Helps hold gaskets in place and seal.

 

[madmikeracing]

Embedding silicone carborundum particulate in you're gasket surfaces may not be wise. The grit is extremely hard. Perhaps a chemical Gasket remover and Razor scraper followed by n]bit WD-40 and small flat honing Stone? Or maybe doesn't matter depends if you're Fussy .

 

[Nessism]

A light machine shop skim looks to be in order. Not cheap but worth it.

 

[fastbysuzuki]

As nessism says a light skim would be good, if you intend to use genuine suzuki gaskets would recommend at the very least for the head,base and the orings (tear drop & barrels) the new head gaskets are multilayered steel and require a decent finish on barrels and head. Check you head for distortion I think the max is .008" across the length less is better.
if you use the multilayered steel gasket you do not use the cam tunnel oring

 

[portdave]

As others have said, I had a machine shop do a light skim when I did my 850. Well worth it.

 

[Dan]

Thanks everyone - so the gasket surfaces need to be as smooth and clean as the rest of it- will keep at it, gently.

 

[Steve]

... if you use the multilayered steel gasket you do not use the cam tunnel oring

Thank you for that statement. :encouragement:

My first time through, I had no idea and installed the o-ring. Had to take the top end apart for a different reason and found that o-ring SEVERELY distorted and out of place. The MLS gasket seems to seal that area without the o-ring, so I sent PMs to a couple of forum members whom I thought would know whether the o-ring was necessary or not, but got responses that I felt were a bit less than satisfactory.

It's nice to know that I will NOT need to install one when I get the head back from the machine shop, where it's getting a light skim.

.

 

[alke46]

I understand difference between shops and localities, but generally speaking, what is the price range for a light skim?
$50-100, higher or lower?

 

[Dan]

...
if you use the multilayered steel gasket you do not use the cam tunnel oring

Ok - that's good to know. Is the "multilayered steel gasket" something different than OEM? (Which I was planning on using as I've read the forum comments.)

Thanks for the heads up.

Dan

 

[Steve]

I understand difference between shops and localities, but generally speaking, what is the price range for a light skim?
$50-100, higher or lower?

The shop I have gone to charges $45 per surface. I think that's reasonable.

.

 

[alke46]

The shop I have gone to charges $45 per surface. I think that's reasonable.

.

I think that's a pretty good price to have it done with such precision.

 

[Steve]

I think that's a pretty good price to have it done with such precision.

You must be remembering the picture that I posted last summer. Here it is again, for everyone else to enjoy. :-\\\

.

 

[fastbysuzuki]

Ok - that's good to know. Is the "multilayered steel gasket" something different than OEM? (Which I was planning on using as I've read the forum comments.)

Thanks for the heads up.

Dan

The "old" Oem gasket is a fibreous type gasket the "new" Oem one is as it suggests its multilayered as in two or three very thin steel layers that are impregnated with a very thin coating of a sealant that bonds together when hot as you can imagine the steel gasket is not as forgiving to take up poor finish or distortion.

 

[Dan]

Thanks again guys. I'm getting there, not as pristine as Steves, but not bad for hand work.

I'll get the MLS gaskets and leave out the cam tunnel ring.

One more question - I see a bit about this on the forums, but with the MLS, do you typically add any kind of sealant?

 

[Steve]

Generally not necessary, although some guys insist that it works better for them.

.

 

[Dan]

Thanks again for all the help.

 

[fastbysuzuki]

One more question - I see a bit about this on the forums, but with the MLS, do you typically add any kind of sealant?

As I mentioned in post #16 the MLS gasket is already pre- coated with sealant.