Help! Stripped a thread in the crankcase

[blowerbike]

on any small fasteners you must use an inch pound torque wrench.
also,
the 1/4x20 SAE i mention will work if you add a spacer to make the shoulder that the factory bolt has.

 

[Suzuki_Don]

Yes Pete I have the original GS550 manual in the flesh, I also have Cliffs downloaded copy which is good if I need a couple of sheets in the shed when working on the bike. I then throw them in the bin when I've finished. But nothing beats having the original Suzuki manual from 1977 in your hand when doing these jobs.

BTW Did you say HAYNES, was that HAYNES you said, you're not telling me you have a HAYNES manual, and that you actually read a HAYNES manual. Pete wash your mouth out. What has happened to you is the very reason we don't use HAYNES manuals.

 

[Nessism]

I agree with Don. 6mm bolts should only be torqued to 8 ft-lbs or so. And yes, an inch-lbs torque wrench is needed for small bolts like that. If you don't have one, just use a 1/4" ratchet handle and torque till snug. Also, apply loctite on all those internal engine screws since you don't want them coming loose.

 

[Guest]

Thanks guys, my torque wrench is only ft lb's, not a real expensive one but all I could justify spending $$$ on at the time.

I'll stick with the smaller socket driver from now on for the small bolts and just snug them up tight with my thread locker.

I apologise for offending you all with mention of the <BRAND DELETED> brand manual, and I shall not mention <BRAND DELETED> brand again

Don, got your PM and downloaded and it works, so I shall refer to that from now on

Thanks again all and I will hopefully have more success and less damaged threads from here on in...

 

[Guest]

So, after perusing the newly acquired PDF from Clymer, I have discovered the errors of my ways... no more using <BRAND DELETED> manual, full stop.

The Clymer manual is obscenely better than the other, and I feel like burning it actually it is that misleading.

Anyways, I'm going to try to purchase a Clymer as the PDF version is a little awkward due to no contents/index etc. that links page to page, although it looks like everyone here in Aus wants $69.95 for it. I might go visit the print shop tomorrow near work and see what it would cost to print and bind it...

 

[Suzuki_Don]

So, after perusing the newly acquired PDF from Clymer, I have discovered the errors of my ways... no more using <BRAND DELETED> manual, full stop.

The Clymer manual is obscenely better than the other, and I feel like burning it actually it is that misleading.

Anyways, I'm going to try to purchase a Clymer as the PDF version is a little awkward due to no contents/index etc. that links page to page, although it looks like everyone here in Aus wants $69.95 for it. I might go visit the print shop tomorrow near work and see what it would cost to print and bind it...

Pete even though there is no contents page at the front of the manual I sent you, the last three pages of the manual have everything you will need in the index. So the procedure is when looking for something go immediately to the back of the manual, find the page number for the subject you want, go to top left of PDF page hi-lite 1 and type in the number page that you want, press ENTER and you will be within a couple of pages of where you need to be in the manual.

Hope this helps.

 

[Guest]

Aaaaaah I hadn't scrolled all the way to the end yet! Should've known that

Thanks again Don, very much appreciated.

I'll still see what the printing shop will charge for printing and binding it today as I still find it easier to have something to flip through away from the computer.

Mind you, I saved my ancient laptop and put it on the work bench for just this sort of thing also.

 

[Suzuki_Don]

Aaaaaah I hadn't scrolled all the way to the end yet! Should've known that

Thanks again Don, very much appreciated.

I'll still see what the printing shop will charge for printing and binding it today as I still find it easier to have something to flip through away from the computer.

Mind you, I saved my ancient laptop and put it on the work bench for just this sort of thing also.

Pete what I usually do is just print out the 2 or 3 pages (or 6 to 8 usually) and take them to the shed with me. Doesn't matter if they get oily finger prints on them because I just throw them away when I'm finished.

 

[Charlie G]

Pete,

I have a Suzuki Service Manual for the 450, if you need a few pages scanned, send me a PM.

cg

 

[Guest]

Cheers Don, that was my next thought. Haven't gotten to the print shop at the moment, but I'll try on the screen to start with and see how I go.

And cheers also Charlie. So far it looks like the Clymer will give me what I need but I'll let you know if anything's lacking.

The Clymer actually tells you how to get the gear shafts in neutral also, whereas the <BRAND DELETED> just says ensure it is in neutral... so helpful...

 

[Guest]

Well I rocked up at home tonight to find the house mate had scored me a kit from a place near his work (Brisbane Fasteners and Engineering Supplies) and, while it cost just under $4 more than the one I had on here earlier, they supply the drill required, whereas the other one doesn't, so I guess the end price is pretty much the same.

Anyways, I now have the kit ready to roll next time I get a chance to get to it.

On a side note, they recommend suitable lubricant for the tap be used, is engine oil going to be ok for that or do I need something else or can I get away without it?

 

[Guest]

Well I rocked up at home tonight to find the house mate had scored me a kit from a place near his work (Brisbane Fasteners and Engineering Supplies) and, while it cost just under $4 more than the one I had on here earlier, they supply the drill required, whereas the other one doesn't, so I guess the end price is pretty much the same.

Anyways, I now have the kit ready to roll next time I get a chance to get to it.

On a side note, they recommend suitable lubricant for the tap be used, is engine oil going to be ok for that or do I need something else or can I get away without it?

With aluminum, you could even do it dry, but engine oil would work fine.

 

[Guest]

Cheers! I'll use a little engine oil, don't want to use too much and lose control of the tap.

 

[Guest]

Well I've finally fixed it!

Thanks for all the help guys, greatly appreciated, the thread is now repaired.

Thanks for the kind offers of assistance and tool loaning (Ken) and the manual providing (Don).

As it turns out, the house mate scored me a kit and I finally got a spare half hour today to fix it, and it's done.

It looks like most of you have done this before, but for those who haven't have a look at posts 205/206 of my rebuild thread in my signature and I've put some pic's etc. of the process as it's the first time I've done it.

Thanks again guys, much appreciated! This forum rocks

 

[Dogma]

Glad to hear it wasn't nearly as hairy as I thought it would be.

 

[Guest]

Me too, did not want to be replacing the crankcase and no way was I gonna get time to get to a machine shop...