Honda R/R: 7-wire unit...

[Dave8338]

Arighty then; I've "taken" the time to remove the R/R from a parts bike of mine (82 Honda 500 Interstate) and it turns out to be the 7-wire R/R.
3-yellow (stator feeds)
2-Red ?
2-Green?
1-Black (not the ground if I'm correct)?

I went through Cliff's "how to" and he covers the 6-wire R/R perfectly. \\/

Anyone want to help out on the 7-wire conversion....anyone? :?

Thanks.

 

[Matchless]

Dave,
I seem to recall the GL1000 had a 7 wire unit, but that was only the rectifier, the regulator was seperate. See if you can get the wiring diagram of the donor bike as that will give you much more sure information.

 

[Sandy]

That's exactly the same one I used. The extra green and the extra red are just an extra ground and extra positive wire. The small guage black (sometimes brown) is the voltage sense wire. You can use the extra ground wire to make another ground connection and the 2 reds can be just tied together and connected to the battery terminal, they are physically connected to the same point internally in the R/R so they can be treated as one. Otherwise just hook it up as shown in the article.

 

[Dave8338]

That's exactly the same one I used. The extra green and the extra red are just an extra ground and extra positive wire. The small guage black (sometimes brown) is the voltage sense wire. You can use the extra ground wire to make another ground connection and the 2 reds can be just tied together and connected to the battery terminal, they are physically connected to the same point internally in the R/R so they can be treated as one. Otherwise just hook it up as shown in the article.

Thanks, Sandy. I'll have at it tonight and see if I can't get rid of the extra 3.5 volts that I have now!

 

[focus frenzy]

Arighty then; I've "taken" the time to remove the R/R from a parts bike of mine (82 Honda 500 Interstate) and it turns out to be the 7-wire R/R.
3-yellow (stator feeds)
2-Red ?
2-Green?
1-Black (not the ground if I'm correct)?

I went through Cliff's "how to" and he covers the 6-wire R/R perfectly. \\/

Anyone want to help out on the 7-wire conversion....anyone? :?

Thanks.

I'm no math teacher, but unless my math is bad thats 8 wires?

 

[Dave8338]

I'm no math teacher, but unless my math is bad thats 8 wires?

No...your math is correct...I'll have to double check on the black wire, but I'm sure it is there. :-s 8-[

 

[BassCliff]

Cooking with electrons

Cooking with electrons

Hi Mr. Dave8338,

I have one of those 7-wire later model CBR r/r units. I recently discussed how to connect it with Mr. Nessism via PM. Here's a thread where we "come out". :-D

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=124706

3-yellow, 2-red, 2-green; Yellows to stator, 1 green to negative battery terminal and the other to a good frame ground, 1 red to the harness and the other direct to the battery with an inline fuse (10amp or so). I had no black wire on mine.

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

 

[Dave8338]

OH, How I love electrical's

OH, How I love electrical's

Well...if everything is wired correctly (and I'm all but positive (no pun intended) it is), I still can't drop the voltage below 16.5-8 at an idle. There is always a chance that the R/R from the Honda is also bad.

Does anyone know off hand what the ohms should read on the R/R and which method to use to test it? I'm about ready to throw a Yami part on the thing and ride it!!! :evil:

I do have the 8-wire R/R, by the way. Would the sense wire need to be hooked up to something?

Dave

 

[Sandy]

Where did you hook up the voltage sense wire? If it's hooked to a wire that has a bad ground or for some reason is low on voltage the regulator will try to compensate for that and overcharge the battery. Just for a test hook up the voltage sense wire directly to the positive terminal of the battery and then try a voltage reading. If it's within spec you had it hooked to a bad wire, if it still reads high the R/R is probably toast.

 

[Nessism]

Your voltage is way too high. The "sense" wire needs to be hooked up to a switched power wire. Not sure if hooking it up improperly could cause the problem or not though.

 

[Dave8338]

That may be it.

That may be it.

Well then there's my problem [-o< I didn't hook up the sense wire to anything! :shock: I was not sure of it's placement so I left it alone. I'll fish it out of the harness today after work and give it a home. A switched + wire, correct?

 

[Nessism]

Yup, switched positive. Many people hook up to the brake light circuit wiring.

 

[Dave8338]

Can Do...

Can Do...

Yup, switched positive. Many people hook up to the brake light circuit wiring.

Thanks, I'll dig in tonight! \\/

 

[focus frenzy]

brake light circuit is bad idea unless you are going to rewire the bike to eliminate the voltage loss.

the one I installed on the project bike was set up for a output of 14.5 volts, with the sensor wire hooked up to the tail light wire I had 14.5 running volts at the tail light. problem was, there was a 1.3 volt drop between battery voltage and tail light voltage, so I ended up with 15.8 volts at the battery.

I switched to a relay controlled dirrect battery voltage (ignition relay mod) and that fixed it.

 

[Dave8338]

Any issues with a slight drop in voltage to the tail light circuit? :-s

 

[Steve]

I switched to a relay controlled dirrect battery voltage (ignition relay mod) and that fixed it.

I did pretty much the same thing, except it was not an ignition relay mod, it was a terminal strip mod. Too many farkles on the bike, so I installed a terminal strip that is activated by a relay which is, in turn, activated by a key-switched wire (I don't remember which one ). Items powered by this terminal strip include the CB radio, XM radio, voltmeter backlight, LED driving lights, Blue LED show lights and the r/r sense wire. Since there is now a good sense wire connection, the voltmeter sits rock-solid at 14.3 after it settles in. I got this picture before it was all done, so there are more wires than this involved. The bottom two rows are dedicated to providing a good ground point for all these farkles.

What, you never heard of a "farkle"?
It's a term used in the long-distance bike crowd, mostly consisting of BMWs, Honda STs and Kawi Concours,
It is actually an acronym, and it goes like this:
F ancy
A ccessory,
R elatively
K ool, and
L ikely
E xpensive.

8-[

 

[Sandy]

Any issues with a slight drop in voltage to the tail light circuit? :-s

I guess it depends on what a slight drop is. The way the Honda R/R with sense wire works is that it regulates the voltage by what it reads on the sense wire. In other words it will increase it's output until it reads around 14.7 volts on the sense wire. If you have a 1 volt drop on the brake light wire then the R/R will output 14.7 on that wire and that will end up charging your battery at 15.7. So the closer the sense wire connection is to the voltage you get to the voltage read at the battery terminal the better. The relay setup would do that but what I did was connect the sense wire to the back of the stock fuse block at one of the switched fuses. You could also be seeing a loss at your ignition switch, try cleaning that too.

 

[Dave8338]

All done.

All done.

R/R conversion is done and all checks out within specs: 12.36 static, 13.4 at idle and 15.43 at 5,000. I would prefer the 15.43 to be a little lower, however...it is within range, so I'll leave well enough alone.

The 8-wire conversion is easy, maybe a 2-3 on a scale of 1-10.
I used the tail light circuit as the sense circuit connection, easy to get at and right there in the harness.

Thanks for the help / info guys! \\/ 187 miles yesterday....:-D