How do I get this bearing out?

[ddaniels]

How do I get this out?

 

[ddaniels]

Other side. No way I can see to tap it out like the manual says.

 

[chuck hahn]

Maybe a small diameter drift and get it in at an angle to catch the edge of the bearing?? Work around the perimeter till it comes out??

 

[Redman]

What is that? More fun with you FZ1??

 

[chuck hahn]

Guess you could weld a rod inside, grab with vice grips, tap out with a hammer

 

[Rijko]

I have used anchor bolts to drive out bearings that i could not get to.
Find one that gets close to the id of that bearing and it should grip
it enough to tap it out.

 

[ddaniels]

I like the anchor bolt idea.

 

[ddaniels]

What is that? More fun with you FZ1??

Yep but not much fun.

 

[ddaniels]

Guess you could weld a rod inside, grab with vice grips, tap out with a hammer

If only I knew how to weld...

 

[Cipher]

Essentialy a blind hole. Any gap in there?

 

[Cipher]

Essentialy a blind hole. Any gap in there?

 

[Steve]

If the back side is pretty much enclosed, find a rod or bolt that just barely fits into the center of the bearing. Pack axle grease behind the bearing, right up to the top of the hole. Place the rod/bolt in the hole, smack it with a BFH. Since the grease won't compress, it will push the bearing out. :encouragement:

.

 

[Agemax]

heat the casing up, the bearing will pop out a lot easier with the ali casing warmed up and expanded slightly

 

[TxGSrider]

I just had to remove a bearing similar to that from my ATV case. I bought a 3 jaw pilot bearing puller from harbor freight. I had to grind some metal off the tips of the jaws to get them inside the hole far enough to fit.

 

[ddaniels]

All interesting ideas, thanks. It's not enclosed from the back but the hole is only large enough for the shaft that goes through the bearing so no room to reach in from behind and tap it out, even though that's what the manual says to do. (???) Anyway, some explanation here: There were two seals I had to take out to get to where the bearing is. The first one, a mechanical seal had to be heated up to release its bonding agent. I heated it with a propane torch. I didn't think to do it with the thing turned upside down so the rubber from the other bearing behind it melted down into the bearing and then resolidified locking the bearing up. I tried heating it back up upside down hoping the rubber would remelt and "fall" out of the brearing. It did to some extent. I then decided to soak the whole thing in my gallon can of carb cleaner overnight. That did enough to free up the bearing and allow it to turn again. I'm soaking it some more now hoping I can get all the contaminant out of there. If I can, there won't be anymore need to remove the bearing.

 

[Steve]

Depending on the composition of the 'rubber', carb cleaner just <might> remove it. :encouragement:

.

 

[ddaniels]

Depending on the composition of the 'rubber', carb cleaner just <might> remove it. :encouragement:

.

Yeah, "might" is the operative word. I'm guessing it's nitrile since it's an oil seal. We'll see.

 

[ddaniels]

Carb cleaner did the trick.

 

[fbody_mike]

The old carb cleaner, yup. Before my nanny state here (CA) took all the good stuff out of the store, if I dropped a carb part in the dip with any rubber, gasket, or plastic on it, it would come back out without it. Does that stuff your using still stink to high-heaven?

 

[ddaniels]

The old carb cleaner, yup. Before my nanny state here (CA) took all the good stuff out of the store, if I dropped a carb part in the dip with any rubber, gasket, or plastic on it, it would come back out without it. Does that stuff your using still stink to high-heaven?

Sure does. Berryman's