How do YOU jump start an old GS?

[Suzukian]

I start off with a 10 amp battery for 10 minutes, then go to a 2 amp, sometimes the 2 amp batteries can break into the cells, especially if they have any sulfate on them. I purchased a new Schumacher charger that has a high frequency setting to knock off any Sulfur it detects, it also does standard, AGM, and has a 2 amp setting.. It's all digital, kind of small, and has been the best one I've had yet. The most I can coax out of a battery now is maybe 3 years, but usually two, and I had better be riding the bike al lot. They don't make motorcycle batteries like they used to. I used to get 5 years out of a YUASA Battery, but not now. I keep them on trickle, automatic 1.8 volt chargers, but they end up steaming all the electrolyte out, and you have to add distilled water, which I'm sure deteriorates the batteries state.

So the bike did start? IF it did, it means that the battery reading you are getting with the AGM is just a surface charge, not an indication of the amps it's able to produce. That's why I stick with conventional batteries, at least I can see the electrolyte levels, and check each cell with a hydrometer. If you bike did start with a larger source load, it means your battery is probably shot Some starters will take more current when they start to go, but Suzuki makes a really robust starter. Mine has lasted 40 years, and spins right over.

Make sure you check the ground lead from your battery, all the way down. On a lot of bikes those years, Suzuki grounded the battery to a painted spot on the engine, relying on the bolt threads to ground the battery. This caused electrolysis to occur, and you end up with a really bad ground, which wreaks havoc on the bikes charging system. If this is the case, scrap that surface down to aluminum, apply a little dielectric grease so no oxidation in any area that isn't covered with the bolt won't oxidize, and use a new bolt, and tighten it, clean the ground connector too, so it's nice and shiny., then you will have a good ground. This creates a level playing field for the electronics. The batteries sold at Walmart are made by YUASA, can you believe that!!

 

[OriginalOwner]

I start off with a 10 amp battery for 10 minutes, then go to a 2 amp, sometimes the 2 amp batteries can break into the cells, especially if they have any sulfate on them. I purchased a new Schumacher charger that has a high frequency setting to knock off any Sulfur it detects, it also does standard, AGM, and has a 2 amp setting.. It's all digital, kind of small, and has been the best one I've had yet. The most I can coax out of a battery now is maybe 3 years, but usually two, and I had better be riding the bike al lot. They don't make motorcycle batteries like they used to. I used to get 5 years out of a YUASA Battery, but not now. I keep them on trickle, automatic 1.8 volt chargers, but they end up steaming all the electrolyte out, and you have to add distilled water, which I'm sure deteriorates the batteries state.

So the bike did start? IF it did, it means that the battery reading you are getting with the AGM is just a surface charge, not an indication of the amps it's able to produce. That's why I stick with conventional batteries, at least I can see the electrolyte levels, and check each cell with a hydrometer. If you bike did start with a larger source load, it means your battery is probably shot Some starters will take more current when they start to go, but Suzuki makes a really robust starter. Mine has lasted 40 years, and spins right over.

Make sure you check the ground lead from your battery, all the way down. On a lot of bikes those years, Suzuki grounded the battery to a painted spot on the engine, relying on the bolt threads to ground the battery. This caused electrolysis to occur, and you end up with a really bad ground, which wreaks havoc on the bikes charging system. If this is the case, scrap that surface down to aluminum, apply a little dielectric grease so no oxidation in any area that isn't covered with the bolt won't oxidize, and use a new bolt, and tighten it, clean the ground connector too, so it's nice and shiny., then you will have a good ground. This creates a level playing field for the electronics. The batteries sold at Walmart are made by YUASA, can you believe that!!

Thanks! Will check that negative battery cable/ground first thing.

Yes, the bike started with the "larger source load" and ran well, sorry I wasn't more clear on that. I'll try your charger protocol, 10 amp to 2 amp but I realize there probably isn't much hope left for this battery. FYI, I have a "smart" .8amp (800mA) "trickle charger" but even that will fry a motorcycle battery if left to do it's thing. I use an old wind-up lamp timer on it and set it to run just for an hour, twice a day.

Do you buy/use the Walmart batteries? Can you suggest a battery to purchase for this bike? That question is really for anyone reading along, I'd like to hear anyone's personal battery preferences and experiences.

Thank you!!

:encouragement:

 

[rphillips]

I've been using e-bay chee-po batteries for several yrs. now. For me are doing the same as others at appx. 1/2 the price. Several yrs. back, I decided to get a "Good" batt., went to Interstate and bought theirs. Got home opened the sealed Interstate box and found a YUSA batt. and an Interstate sticker, that could be stuck on the YUSA . I wasn't impressed... Also does anyone know of a Batt. tender or trickle charger that turns completely off when batt. is full charged, like many Batt. chargers these days? All I've checked out never turn completely off.

 

[Suzukian]

None of the trickle battery tenders I have actually "shut off'. Maybe it's the "Touring Principle", that a machine can't shut itself off and be truly off, then turn itself back on, therefore it must always be on, to turn itself on (Of course that my own summation, but that is the basics of it).

I use the Walmart batteries. The most I get is three years out of them, one time I didn't even get a year. That was a long time ago. I have a 1.8 trickle charger, and no longer keep it on continuously. Every now and then, I plug it in and within a couple of hours the battery is fully charged, and no fluid has evaporated out. It seems to me that back in the mid '70's to the mid '80's, batteries lasted around 5 years easy. I think they are purposely made cheaper. Sounds paranoid, but nothing else has changed in my bikes, the batteries just don't last as long.

 

[1978GS750E]

"Do you buy/use the Walmart batteries? Can you suggest a battery to purchase for this bike? That question is really for anyone reading along, I'd like to hear anyone's personal battery preferences and experiences."

Whatever battery you buy I would recommend getting an AGM sealed battery. No more checking fluid levels!

I use Interstate AGM batteries in all of my bikes and leave them on a Battery Tender Jr. all the time, year round. The oldest one is six years old! Maybe I'm lucky?
​

 

[Rijko]

Shop owner i know stores customer bikes over the winter period, paid service.
Collects the bike if need be, services it etc.

Had the batteries on trickle chargers all winter the first couple of years.

Then switched to 100% load at first and leave them without charger for a month.
Load 100%, leave them for another month.

He noticed a significant drop in batteries dying.

 

[rphillips]

I just replaced the batt. in my "83" GS1100 about a month ago, it had just lasted, don't remember exact date I had written on old one, appx., 2 yrs. but also when getting bikes started back up after winter nap, I saw the batt. in the "99" Bandit was put in in 2017 and all still good. Yes, these days AGM.

 

[Grimly]

Used to be I got 8 to 10 years out of a Yuasa wet-cell battery, but since 2012 the longest a Yuasa lasted was 3 years. I've been using Motobatt AGM since 2016 and 2017 and those two are still in service.
However, recent purchasers of Motobatt have complained of them not being as good as they were, so there's that.

 

[OriginalOwner]

My Suzuki Part No. is 33610-49210 (12V, 14AH)

12? 14? Is box size, right? Can't remember.

This one is 12 ah - this should work, right?


​


https://www.amazon.com/Mighty-Max-Battery-Maintenance-Motorcycle/dp/B01GEVSUJ6/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=14L-A2&qid=1689887719&refinements=p_85%3A2470955011&r n id=2470954011&rps=1&sr=8-1​

 

[Rich82GS750TZ]

I’ve had an $40 AGM Might Max battery like that in the bike for 3 years. I’ll run it till it dies. I, too, used to replace my battery with a Walmart- add electrolyte at home battery about every year. I don’t thing there’s anything wrong with those batteries. made by Yuasa? Didn’t know that- interesting.

Difference is, I fixed my charging system. I would guess that is the root of your issues too. Plenty written here on the forum of how to test and fix your charging system. See Quick Test and Sorted links in my signature.

Link below to the Mighty Max that I bought because it was nearly the exact same size as the original. Realize that a battery even just a little taller that the original could give you problems installing the air filter box.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GEVTMZW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Pay attention to the position of the POS and NEG posts. They may be reversed from the original orientation. I don’t recall. You may have to rearrange some things. Just be sure.

For what it’s worth, I keep the leads that connect to my Battery Tender Junior bolted to the battery posts. If I’m riding the bike regularly like March thru Nov, I don’t bother with the tender. In the winter I have it connected to a Christmas Light type timer 12 hours a day. Right or wrong, I don’t care. It works.

 

[ptegsotic]

Used to be I got 8 to 10 years out of a Yuasa wet-cell battery, but since 2012 the longest a Yuasa lasted was 3 years. I've been using Motobatt AGM since 2016 and 2017 and those two are still in service.
However, recent purchasers of Motobatt have complained of them not being as good as they were, so there's that.

yea I purchased one of those 6-7 yrs ago ... but it took a dump within 18 months.
(maaay have been operator error ... but I's disappointed)

 

[chuck hahn]

I have had the selinoid loose ground before. Adding a ground from one of the mounting bolts direct to the battery negative resolved the no cranking situation

 

[OriginalOwner]

I’ve had an $40 AGM Might Max battery like that in the bike for 3 years. I’ll run it till it dies. I, too, used to replace my battery with a Walmart- add electrolyte at home battery about every year. I don’t thing there’s anything wrong with those batteries. made by Yuasa? Didn’t know that- interesting.

Difference is, I fixed my charging system. I would guess that is the root of your issues too. Plenty written here on the forum of how to test and fix your charging system. See Quick Test and Sorted links in my signature.

Link below to the Mighty Max that I bought because it was nearly the exact same size as the original. Realize that a battery even just a little taller that the original could give you problems installing the air filter box.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GEVTMZW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Pay attention to the position of the POS and NEG posts. They may be reversed from the original orientation. I don’t recall. You may have to rearrange some things. Just be sure.

For what it’s worth, I keep the leads that connect to my Battery Tender Junior bolted to the battery posts. If I’m riding the bike regularly like March thru Nov, I don’t bother with the tender. In the winter I have it connected to a Christmas Light type timer 12 hours a day. Right or wrong, I don’t care. It works.

I'm going to certainly do the charging system tests, thanks.

I went ahead with the Mighty Max in my link even tho it was 12 AH instead of 14 AH - Mighty Max says its the right battery for my bike and the listed dimensions are just a tenth of an inch off from what I have in there now. It's Prime, so free returns no questions asked if it's somehow not right. It will be here sooner than the others / on Sat and I want to ride it this weekend.



Washed/dusted it and took some pics too:
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​

 

[OriginalOwner]

​I forgot how much of a PITA it is to post pics here. Sorry, I'll do some editing and get some better ones posted.
​

 

[Suzukian]

If you haven't done the fix for the charging system, that could be rearing it's ugly head.

The issue is that the Suzuki Regulator Rectifier only regulates one leg of the Stator, the other two legs swing up and down in voltage, the sends current back to the Stator and ends up burning the Stator out, and takes the Cr@ppy Regulator Rectifier out with it.

A company named "ElectroSports" makes a very well made replacement Stator, and a full, wave regulator Rectifier for all three legs of the Stator. This also creates 20% more available power, and none of the electricity is returned to the Stator. I wired three new slightly heavier gauge wires, the same gauge was what came off the Stator directly to the three tabs on the Regulator Rectifier, and wired the +/- tabs directly to the Battery. This removed around 6 feet of useless wiring from the harness. I haven't had charging issues for many years.

Go to the thread I post below and look at post Number # 9 This is the best post on the forum on which R/R to get. Nessism​ has it covered very thoroughly.

Link = https://www.thegsresources.com/_for...etrain-clutch/1726302-burning-through-stators

 

[OriginalOwner]

If you haven't done the fix for the charging system, that could be rearing it's ugly head.

The issue is that the Suzuki Regulator Rectifier only regulates one leg of the Stator, the other two legs swing up and down in voltage, the sends current back to the Stator and ends up burning the Stator out, and takes the Cr@ppy Regulator Rectifier out with it.

A company named "ElectroSports" makes a very well made replacement Stator, and a full, wave regulator Rectifier for all three legs of the Stator. This also creates 20% more available power, and none of the electricity is returned to the Stator. I wired three new slightly heavier gauge wires, the same gauge was what came off the Stator directly to the three tabs on the Regulator Rectifier, and wired the +/- tabs directly to the Battery. This removed around 6 feet of useless wiring from the harness. I haven't had charging issues for many years.

Go to the thread I post below and look at post Number # 9 This is the best post on the forum on which R/R to get. Nessism​ has it covered very thoroughly.

Link = https://www.thegsresources.com/_for...etrain-clutch/1726302-burning-through-stators

​

I checked it out and it's definitely something I have never done before. The expertise and knowledge of the users on this site is beyond amazing! Do you suggest doing this prophylactically before there's an issue?





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Meh, I had to reduce the quality to post it here and you don't get to see the true beauty of this beast.

 

[Suzukian]

As a prophylactic measure, definitely, as the issue is so well known. Make your sure read Nessism​ thread first though, or even contact him on it. He knows this issue in and out, which R/R to get, Stators. His help will get you where you need to be. His wealth of knowledge is amazing. He will also know your bike and any specific which may apply.

 

[Grimly]

​

Do you suggest doing this prophylactically before there's an issue?

Definitely. There are some who, through some miracle, have managed to keep their original Reg/Rec going, but they're in the minority. Suzuki used a cheap-ass way of regulating the output, and it puts a lot of stress on the components.
Fitting an SH-775 now will save you a lot of trouble.

 

[Suzukian]

Couldn't have said it better myself!

 

[93Bandit]

Definitely. There are some who, through some miracle, have managed to keep their original Reg/Rec going, but they're in the minority. Suzuki used a cheap-ass way of regulating the output, and it puts a lot of stress on the components.
Fitting an SH-775 now will save you a lot of trouble.

Up until a few years ago, my 850 was running the original stator and reg/rec. Bike ran fine, no electrical/charging issues. I went ahead and installed a SH775 as preventative measure.