How to remove float pins ??

[Guest]

Help, the float pins on my carbs are pushed all the way in - I think it's the original setup. Tried to grab the heads with snips but there's really nothing to grab. I'm afraid to tap them out, i've had some bad experiences with that!!

I have them soaking in PB blaster at the moment, waiting for me to think up something clever...

I know this has been kicked about before, but i need a sure fire way to pull these out without breaking off the float posts. What are some of the techniques and/or tricks you guys have out there to do this safely??

All ideas & opinions welcome!!

Thanks,

mike

 

[Dave8338]

Yes, soak them in PB Blaster and then (if you have a vice) open the jaws of the vice about 1/8" and lightly tap the pin (from the left hand float support tab) using the vice as a "die" for the pin.

If no vice is available...use the smallest socket that you have or a couple pieces of flat iron or what ever will work (not wood) and again place the right hand float support tab over the space "die" that you've created to support the tab...then tap the pin lightly.

Sounds harder than it is.......hard to explain. :?

OH...make sure to use a punch (very small, smaller than the pin) to tap the pin out!

 

[Nessism]

I just use the corner of my workbench to support the post. The vice is a good idea though.

 

[Guest]

So if I read this right, I only need to support the post the pin is pressed in to? That would be the post opposite the one the "pin head" is against?

I'm extremely paranoid because i've broken one of these before & replacing that broken carb body was a GIANT hassle.

 

[rustybronco]

I'm extremely paranoid because i've broken one of these before & replacing that broken carb body was a GIANT hassle.

No need to replace the body, you can repair it.

 

[Guest]

Another quick question while we're on the topic of removing stuck carb parts.

When i tapped (read hammered) out the jet needle sleeves I gouged the ID a little (about .200" long), at the end opposite to the main jet threads on one of them. I'm planning to clean it up with a small file and/or emery paper to smooth it out, and to make sure the needle jet slides in & out freely.

My question is: Do I need to replace this thing (about $15 ea)? It looks to me that the "business end" of the sleeve is the jet end, and I don't think the "slide" end means squat.

What do ya think?

 

[rapidray]

I have always used an automatic center punch & have NEVER broken a post that way. They pop right out too! Ray.

 

[Dave8338]

Clean it up and put it back in.

 

[chuckycheese]

Me too

Me too

Another quick question while we're on the topic of removing stuck carb parts.

When i tapped (read hammered) out the jet needle sleeves I gouged the ID a little (about .200" long), at the end opposite to the main jet threads on one of them. I'm planning to clean it up with a small file and/or emery paper to smooth it out, and to make sure the needle jet slides in & out freely.

My question is: Do I need to replace this thing (about $15 ea)? It looks to me that the "business end" of the sleeve is the jet end, and I don't think the "slide" end means squat.

What do ya think?

I did exactly the same thing when I rebuilt my 750 carbs for the first time. I took mine to a machine shop and a guy re-tapped it by hand. It took about 15 seconds and he didn't charge me anything. Ive rebuilt them several times since then and they are as good as new. By the way, that's one of the few carb parts that is no longer available from Suzuki....at least it's not available for either of my bikes.

 

[Guest]

I have always used an automatic center punch & have NEVER broken a post that way. They pop right out too! Ray.

What is an "automatic center punch?"

 

[Nessism]

The interference fit of the pin is on the end WITH the nail head - pins flares just under the head.

 

[Dogma]

What is an "automatic center punch?"

It's a thing you want that punches a tiny hole in something to provide a center to start a drill, or just mark a point (or break a window to escape a sinking car...). The automatic type doesn't require a hammer. You push it against the item to be marked, and the spring-loaded mechanism inside automatically delivers the hammer blow for you. Harbor Freight has a couple types for dirt cheap.

 

[Guest]

The interference fit of the pin is on the end WITH the nail head - pins flares just under the head.

OK, so THAT'S the post (with nail head) I have to support while I tap the pin out from the other side?

Can you tell I'm paranoid 8-[ ??

 

[Guest]

It's a thing you want that punches a tiny hole in something to provide a center to start a drill, or just mark a point (or break a window to escape a sinking car...). The automatic type doesn't require a hammer. You push it against the item to be marked, and the spring-loaded mechanism inside automatically delivers the hammer blow for you. Harbor Freight has a couple types for dirt cheap.

Thanks Dogma - I could get one & use it against my temple if i screw up this carb body!!

 

[Billyboy]

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=125563

Almost a duplicate thread.

I did this last night. I had the best luck pressing it out with a set of vise grips.

 

[Guest]

Just to put some closure on this thread...

I removed all my float pins without incident. I blocked the float post with the pin head through it (taking care not to cover the pin head), wedged a small rectangular piece of aluminum between the two float posts (spaced approx .700" apart), bought a small dia (1/16") flat headed punch and tapped the pins out using a small ball peen hammer - piece of cake!! Absolutely zero stress on the posts!!

Thanks for all the suggestions guys!!

Mike

 

[Doze]

I have used a pair of needle nose pliers in the past with very good results. Just place one side of the pliers to the part of the pin that is sticking out of the post, and the other side of the pliers to the backside of that post. You then can apply quite a bit of pressure to the pin without chancing breaking the post off.

 

[Matchless]

The poor mans punch - just select a nail or panel pin that is slightly thinner than the float pin. Push the point on the grinder or file it flat, put that on the pin and tap it out gently.

 

[Guest]

I have used a pair of needle nose pliers in the past with very good results. Just place one side of the pliers to the part of the pin that is sticking out of the post, and the other side of the pliers to the backside of that post. You then can apply quite a bit of pressure to the pin without chancing breaking the post off.

Yes, I've done that as before - it works when the pin is not that tightly pressed in; mostly likey after someone had taken them out before.

However, I broke a post that way before - as I learned from this post, the interference fit portion of the pin is the head end. Pushing on the tail end of the pin while securing only the "tail post" (like with the needle nose pliers), leaves the "head post" without any support & susceptible to cracking if the pin is really tightly pushed in.

I think it's best to always support the "head post" in some fashion to avoid a loud "OH $H1T !!!"

regards,

mike

 

[chuckycheese]

Busted

Busted

I have used a pair of needle nose pliers in the past with very good results. Just place one side of the pliers to the part of the pin that is sticking out of the post, and the other side of the pliers to the backside of that post. You then can apply quite a bit of pressure to the pin without chancing breaking the post off.

I've only broken off one post (one too many). The method you've outlined describes, perfectly, the way I managed to break it.