Huge &%^#& Up

[wheatdog]

Putting in my new allen wrench type valve adjusters on my 83 1100E and guess where the allen wrench went? You betcha!! Right down the center to the crankshaft. Any way to get it out without a total tear down? I'll try fishing with a magnet tomorrow. Right now I'm temporarily insane and cannot function.

Wheatdog.

 

[tkent02]

Start with using a good flashlight. maybe if you can see it you can keep from pushing it in further. Try putting a small magnet on a bendable wire down the same hole? Maybe remove the oil drain plug and fish around with the magnet? If no good, remove the oil pan and fish some more? Maybe even reach the magnet in from behind the clutch cover?
Whatever you do don't rotate the crankshaft at all.

 

[1980GS1000E]

Just what I would suggest. If that doesn't work you can always turn the bike over and shake.

 

[posplayr]

I've done the same and was able to fish it out. Always do two thing when the valve cover is off.

1.) stick blue paper towels down the chain tunnel to stop things dropping down.

2.) Always remove blue paper towels before reinstalling valve cover.

 

[wheatdog]

I've got a pretty small but potent magnet that I'm JB welding to the end of a spare Ford 289 dipstick. Strong but pliable. You know, I've been working on engines for 40 yrs and still do incredibly ignorant things like this. I'm more ****ed at myself than the situation. Oh well, made a Caesar salad and quaffed a bottle of Reisling. My '65 Mustang road racer gets out of the paint shop tomorrow. I'll see what I can screw up on that next. Chill out and walk away. Tomorrow is another day.

Wheatdog

 

[makenzie71]

Be leary of the jb-welding the magnet...if it comes off you may make things worse. I always use a small magnet retriever...the magnets are usually glued and clamped into place.

For future reference, as well as posplayer's suggestion, all of my tools in such situations get safety wired.

 

[Nessism]

You think that's dumb? Don't get me started on all the stupid stuff I've managed to do while wrenching.:-\\\

A good magnet should find the wrench no problem.

 

[makenzie71]

You think that's dumb? Don't get me started on all the stupid stuff I've managed to do while wrenching.:-\\\

We once left one of those little stubby phillips head screwdrivers sitting on top of the #1 while changing the headgasket on a V6 Chevy Beretta. Man did THAT make a lot of noise...

...just an example...

 

[JEEPRUSTY]

I've got a pretty small but potent magnet that I'm JB welding to the end of a spare Ford 289 dipstick. Strong but pliable. You know, I've been working on engines for 40 yrs and still do incredibly ignorant things like this. I'm more ****ed at myself than the situation. Oh well, made a Caesar salad and quaffed a bottle of Reisling. My '65 Mustang road racer gets out of the paint shop tomorrow. I'll see what I can screw up on that next. Chill out and walk away. Tomorrow is another day.

Wheatdog

Riesling with garlic? Indeed! I like a nice dry white tuna covered with cracked pepperecorns with riesling
6 burly guys are needed to flip the bike over and shake the wrench out.
Hell it will work.

Was the feeling the same kind of quesy you get from a bolt that keeps on a turnin or was it more an immediate rage?

 

[wheatdog]

No luck with the magnet. I wanted to look at the chain guides anyway (top end noise); so this forces the issue. Once the cylinder block is off I should have sufficient access to find the slippery little devil.

Wheatdog

 

[Baatfam]

Did you try opening the clutch and pulling out the basket...

You can get to a lot of the under crank area that way...

Just a thought...good luck.

 

[Nessism]

If you want to pull the top end that's fine, but I'm almost certain you can get the wrench out without doing so.

Next level of escalation would be to pull out the cams so you can move the cam chain out of the way and fish with the magnet and/or pull the sump cover off so you can look inside from the bottom. Going in though the clutch opening might work too.

 

[crag antler]

was it more an immediate rage??
Like when that bolt snapps off instead.
Been there, got the shirt

 

[blowerbike]

a flexible magnetic wand(about 24" long) will get it.
everybody needs 1 or 2 of these....life savers...

 

[tkent02]

You know what would be a bigger &%^#& Up?

That it is not there. I have looked for parts before where I think they are (Both inside or around) only to find them on the garage floor 10 feet away.

DP

Seems the bigger &%^#& up would be to assume it's not there when it really is.

 

[posplayr]

I think I got a good light and used a small magnet to spy down the hole.

 

[wheatdog]

Got semi lucky with the allen wrench. After pulling the head, I found it nestled up by the front chain guide lower shoe ahead of the crankshaft. It almost made it under the crank but got wedged. Anyhoo, it's out and now that I've seen the condition of the rear chain tensioner and cylinders, I'll be pulling the block.

The cross hatching in the cylinders is still visible but on two of the cylinders, the rings are not contacting the cylinder wall around the entire circumference. Approx 70% contact 30% untouched cross hatching. Looks like a cheesy hone job that is not cylindrical. Don't think this will ever fully seat in.

Now the question is, can it be properly rehoned and stay in spec using the current pistons. Which leads to: What pistons are in this thing in the first place. PO said it had a Weisco 1167 or 1168 whatever kit in it.
The bore measure is 74mm which doens't jive with the 75mm bore requirement for that kit. 1134cc maybe. Piston tops say:

4178PS
XC

Maybe a light, CORRECT, finish hone and a new set of rings? Otherwise more $$$ and go up to the 1168 kit with new pistons etc. OR (I usually don't like this option) put it back as is. It ran like a scalded dog despite evidence of shoddy machine work. No exhaust smoke, no fouled plugs. I never did a compression test which would probably highlight the issue though. AAARGH!! Decisions, decisions.

Wheatdog

 

[Nessism]

Since you are pulling everything down why not have everything measured properly and then make a decision? The cylinders should be checked for diameter, out of round, and taper. The pistons should also be measured so you can judge piston to cylinder wall clearance. It will be easier to judge the brand of pistons once they are out of the engine - post some photos if you need help with the ID. Make decisions on what to do based on what the facts tell you.

 

[gearhead13]

Got semi lucky with the allen wrench. After pulling the head, I found it nestled up by the front chain guide lower shoe ahead of the crankshaft. It almost made it under the crank but got wedged. Anyhoo, it's out and now that I've seen the condition of the rear chain tensioner and cylinders, I'll be pulling the block.

The cross hatching in the cylinders is still visible but on two of the cylinders, the rings are not contacting the cylinder wall around the entire circumference. Approx 70% contact 30% untouched cross hatching. Looks like a cheesy hone job that is not cylindrical. Don't think this will ever fully seat in.

Now the question is, can it be properly rehoned and stay in spec using the current pistons. Which leads to: What pistons are in this thing in the first place. PO said it had a Weisco 1167 or 1168 whatever kit in it.
The bore measure is 74mm which doens't jive with the 75mm bore requirement for that kit. 1134cc maybe. Piston tops say:

4178PS
XC

Maybe a light, CORRECT, finish hone and a new set of rings? Otherwise more $$$ and go up to the 1168 kit with new pistons etc. OR (I usually don't like this option) put it back as is. It ran like a scalded dog despite evidence of shoddy machine work. No exhaust smoke, no fouled plugs. I never did a compression test which would probably highlight the issue though. AAARGH!! Decisions, decisions.

Wheatdog

Yup 4178 is a wiseco 1134cc kit. If it ran good and didnt burn oil then why bother, IMO. Unless you are a perfectionist. Those hone lines are still visable after a lot of miles, how much depends on how coarse the hone was.

 

[rapidray]

Rather than spending money on new pistons, you could always have a different block bored & honed CORRECTLY to your pistons & then install new rings.

Option 1.
New piston set approx. $550-600.00
Bore & hone $200.00
Sell 1134 pistons to recoup some money.

Option 2.
Replace block $50-100.00
New rings $100.00
Bore & hone $200.00

I like 1166 motors, they make GREAT power! 140 RWHP is EASY with an 1166!!! Ray.