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Idea's as to what went wrong?

  • Thread starter Thread starter 7981GS
  • Start date Start date
Funky stuff?

Funky stuff?

So, fuel mixture filled the airbox and ignited.
Blowby gas from the crankcase, too much means worn cylinder walls or burnt through piston top.

Carbs flooding, that can happen.

Ignited by a backfire, or a hot valve.

Some basic things to check:
Compression test
Float levels

Bill
 
Wow Daniel!

I'm happy you survived that little incident. I think I'll go home and clean my airbox. :eek:

I wonder what ignited the fumes in there? It's fortunate that the fire didn't spread.
carcrash.gif



Take care,

Cliff
 
I have mentioned this before and doubt that anyone caught it.
So, with a friend holding the camera, I can show just how easy it is to remove carb
float pins without breaking the stands.
Of course, THIS ONE had to be difficult. Normally, they just pop out and back in. ;)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=peZx6UeOVmI

Daniel
 
I use that method too, but I like to support the post into which the pin is pressed. The one with the head end of the pin. I just hold it with the hand that doesn't have the center punch in it. Don't slip though; it hurts.
 
Nice techique. I'm going to have to get one of those punches now.

cg




I have mentioned this before and doubt that anyone caught it.
So, with a friend holding the camera, I can show just how easy it is to remove carb
float pins without breaking the stands.
Of course, THIS ONE had to be difficult. Normally, they just pop out and back in. ;)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=peZx6UeOVmI

Daniel
 
Made a little progress on the carbs. on Goldy.
Started out not looking too terrible...

DSC06549.jpg


DSC06550.jpg


Too cheap for new ones so it was time to fire up the fine wire wheel on the die grinder.
With some new O-rings from Robert Barr of course!

DSC06551.jpg
;)

The K & N filters are cleaned and air drying over-night.

Took the GSX for a shake down ride again. After finding difficulty getting it lean enough at idle,
I found the UNOPENED BAG of pilot jets that I thought that I put in the carbs! :eek: :mad: :o
So, it must have the 40's in it. Duh!

Anyway, once you get past 3-4,000 rpm, hang on for dear life! :D
So those carbs are coming back off after this one is finished.

Daniel
 
Last edited:
Interestingly enough, my intakr boots also look like they caught on fire at some point. They didn't completely close off like that, but it is very interesting that this issue isn't necessarily unique to your bike...
 
Got the carbies together with improved jetting for the pods.
Don't look much different as I didn't feel like spending any time making them look pretty.
I prefer to ride rather than polish and paint and wait. ;)

DSC06552.jpg


Short video of start up while it breathes a little excess K & N filter oil.
I let them soak for about 2 hours while I changed the plugs, gapped them to .028 (.030-.032 out of the box), put anti-seize on the threads,
changed the oil and filter (1 quart Valvoline racing 20W-50 Syn., 1 quart Valvoline 20W-50 Syn., and 2 quarts of Rotella 5W-40 Syn.)
As Winter is just about here and I ride through it, I went with the thinner oil blend.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=10--yNkS3sU


As they say, CV carbs just do not work with pods. :rolleyes: ;)

Daniel
 
I like the idea of a spring-loaded punch for the pin removal. :clap:

I will have to try to remember to get on next time I am at Harbor Freight.

What I usually use is my 6" Channel-Loc pliers. Opened fully, they are just wide enough to straddle both legs. The jaws will be offset slightly, put the lower jaw over the end of the pin and squeeze gently. It will pop the pin out a couple of millimeters, just enough to get under the head with the wire cutters and pull the pin out.

.
 
Anytime I've ever taken a set of carbs apart I purposely leave the pins out from fully seated a tiny bit so you can get a small screwdriver under them in the future.
 
Once they are out, I chuck the pins in the drill, use it as a lathe and turn the shoulder down so it's not a press fit anymore. Then you can just push the pins out with a finger next time. There is no reason for the press fit.
 
I like the idea of a spring-loaded punch for the pin removal. :clap:

I will have to try to remember to get on next time I am at Harbor Freight.

What I usually use is my 6" Channel-Loc pliers. Opened fully, they are just wide enough to straddle both legs. The jaws will be offset slightly, put the lower jaw over the end of the pin and squeeze gently. It will pop the pin out a couple of millimeters, just enough to get under the head with the wire cutters and pull the pin out.

.

I've been using the automatic center punch for a while now. It does leave a mark in the end of the pin, so I've been thinking about blunting the point to stop that. If you're not careful with a sharp one, you can make a burr on the end of the pin that will interfere with removal and installation. Nothing you can't just file off, though.
 
Both Mikuni and Kehin pulled their heads out of somewhere with the later model carbs and the float pins are no longer press fit. They have a hold down screw and it's nice not to stress out over breaking a post.
The spring loaded punch is nice.
 
When I got my 1100gL, it had pods but the PO gave me the original airbox just in case I could somehow salvage part of it. It looked just like your airbox. Maybe this condition runs in 1100's.
 
That amount of damage looks like more than just fumes....

What about this?: Just prior to the fatal ride, the petcock hung up a bit and dumped some raw gas that ended up pooling in the airbox?
 
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