I'm looking for a spare SH775,what's a fair price here ?

[grcamna2]

How did you test it?

Reason I'm asking is because integrated R/R's usually cannot be tested off-bike without proper equipment.

A multimeter set on diode,by the book.

 

[Steve]

Doing a diode test on an R/R will only test the rectifier part of the device.
The only way to test the regulator is to connect it to a running engine.

There are 12 measurements when doing the diode tests, they ALL have to pass. If even one does not pass, the whole device is bad.

.

 

[tom203]

A multimeter set on diode,by the book.

Please note that you can't test a SH-775 this way....the SCRs don't conduct until they are turned on by the internal circuitry. If you install the SH-775 and still have poor output, suspect the stator (or connections)....a continuity stator test is inconclusive.

 

[grcamna2]

Please note that you can't test a SH-775 this way....the SCRs don't conduct until they are turned on by the internal circuitry. If you install the SH-775 and still have poor output, suspect the stator (or connections)....a continuity stator test is inconclusive.

Steve,
Then I need to hook up this SH775 to test whether it charges ?

 

[Steve]

That would be correct.

While you have the wires disconnected, check the output of the stator first. Stock stators have different-colored wires. Some replacements do, too, but most replacement stators have all wires the same color. The colors of the wires do not matter. Arbitrarily label them "A", "B" and "C". You might need a helper for this, but hold the engine speed at 5000 RPM and measure AC voltage from A to B, A to C and B to C. They should all be pretty close to the same and probably between 75 and 90 volts AC.

Now that you know the stator is good, you can check the R/R. Connect the three stator wires to the three inputs on the R/R. Connect the next terminal on the R/R to the battery + and the last terminal to battery - (temporarily). There are better places for the + and - wires, but this will be good enough for testing.

Clip the meter leads to the battery terminals, set the meter to read DC volts.
- With the key OFF, you should see 12.6-12.8 volts, depending on the battery type.
- Key ON, wait about 10 seconds, battery should remain over 12 volts.
- Start engine, voltage could be anywhere from 11.5 to 14 volts. It should stabilize after a couple of minutes.
- Run engine up to about 2500 RPM, voltage should rise to about 14.
- Run the engine up to about 5000 RPM, voltage might rise to about 14.4, but should NOT drop below 14.

.

 

[grcamna2]

That would be correct.

While you have the wires disconnected, check the output of the stator first. Stock stators have different-colored wires. Some replacements do, too, but most replacement stators have all wires the same color. The colors of the wires do not matter. Arbitrarily label them "A", "B" and "C". You might need a helper for this, but hold the engine speed at 5000 RPM and measure AC voltage from A to B, A to C and B to C. They should all be pretty close to the same and probably between 75 and 90 volts AC.

Now that you know the stator is good, you can check the R/R. Connect the three stator wires to the three inputs on the R/R. Connect the next terminal on the R/R to the battery + and the last terminal to battery - (temporarily). There are better places for the + and - wires, but this will be good enough for testing.

Clip the meter leads to the battery terminals, set the meter to read DC volts.
- With the key OFF, you should see 12.6-12.8 volts, depending on the battery type.
- Key ON, wait about 10 seconds, battery should remain over 12 volts.
- Start engine, voltage could be anywhere from 11.5 to 14 volts. It should stabilize after a couple of minutes.
- Run engine up to about 2500 RPM, voltage should rise to about 14.
- Run the engine up to about 5000 RPM, voltage might rise to about 14.4, but should NOT drop below 14.

.

Okay,
I will do all of those things.
What voltage should I see during idle?
The way it was before this work it was discharging

 

[Steve]

What voltage should I see during idle?

Clip the meter leads to the battery terminals, set the meter to read DC volts.
- With the key OFF, you should see 12.6-12.8 volts, depending on the battery type.
- Key ON, wait about 10 seconds, battery should remain over 12 volts.
- Start engine, voltage could be anywhere from 11.5 to 14 volts. It should stabilize after a couple of minutes.
- Run engine up to about 2500 RPM, voltage should rise to about 14.
- Run the engine up to about 5000 RPM, voltage might rise to about 14.4, but should NOT drop below 14.

The voltage that shows right after you start the bike will depend a lot on the initial state of charge, as well as how long you had to crank the starter before the engine fired. If the battery is down a bit for either one of those, the voltage might be a bit low at first, but will rise after the battery starts getting charged. That's why it will "stabilize" after a couple of minutes. After the bike has been run for a while, dropping down to idle might still keep about 14 volts on the meter. Some bikes will drop down as far as mid-12s, others will stay in the upper-13s. As long as the voltage rises by the time you get to 2000-2500 RPM, it won't really matter what it is at idle.

.

 

[grcamna2]

The voltage that shows right after you start the bike will depend a lot on the initial state of charge, as well as how long you had to crank the starter before the engine fired. If the battery is down a bit for either one of those, the voltage might be a bit low at first, but will rise after the battery starts getting charged. That's why it will "stabilize" after a couple of minutes. After the bike has been run for a while, dropping down to idle might still keep about 14 volts on the meter. Some bikes will drop down as far as mid-12s, others will stay in the upper-13s. As long as the voltage rises by the time you get to 2000-2500 RPM, it won't really matter what it is at idle.

.

When I first(a year ago)installed the SH678c it was close to 14vts even at idle.I checked across the battery terminals with that old r/r SH678c before removing it and it would only have 12.3vts while idling.When I raised the rpms to 3k and anove it would climb to a max of 13.5vts. I turned off the key and I had 12.6vts at the battery.
I charged my battery(batterymart.com yb10l-a2 agm)and she's at a steady 12.93 no load volts.
When I do the stator test,that's with the 3 yellow/stator wires disconnected from the system,yes ?

 

[grcamna2]

Yes,
I see that the SH775 r/r are high priced,compared to just a standard 5 wire r/r.
Can they be adapted to any cycle which takes the 5-wire type ?

 

[Nessism]

I wouldn't bother performing a no-load stator test since the results may be inconclusive. Just hook up the SH775 per this diagram, make sure your battery is fully charged, and then check charging system voltage across the battery. If you get low output and hooked up the SH775 like shown then your stator is weak.

SH775 Install by nessism, on Flickr

 

[grcamna2]

I wouldn't bother performing a no-load stator test since the results may be inconclusive. Just hook up the SH775 per this diagram, make sure your battery is fully charged, and then check charging system voltage across the battery. If you get low output and hooked up the SH775 like shown then your stator is weak.

SH775 Install by nessism, on Flickr

Okay Ed,
That diagram really helps.
Thank you, Bill

Edit: do you know where I can purchase 2 proper fit plugs(water tight?)that will snap right into both the black and grey ports? I have 5 individual spade terminals soldered to the wire ends, I'll use dielectric grease temporarily.I like those plugs,saw some in another thread.

 

[Grimly]

The best and simplest connector is the Triumph charging harness.
This part number can be bought via any Triumph dealer.
http://www.2wheelpros.com/oem-parts/triumph-link-lead-regulator-t2500676-part.html

All you do is remove the bike ends and make the connections to your own harness. Join the two output brown wires together where they feed into the Suzuki loom.

 

[Steve]

When I do the stator test,that's with the 3 yellow/stator wires disconnected from the system,yes ?

Yes. Disconnected leads, no load, except for the meter. As Nessism hinted, this test isn't necessarily foolproof, but I have found more than one stator that had a dead leg by using this test. On the other side of the coin, I have also seen several that passed this test, but still would not charge the battery, even though the R/R tested good on another bike.

Yes,
I see that the SH775 r/r are high priced,compared to just a standard 5 wire r/r.
Can they be adapted to any cycle which takes the 5-wire type ?

There is probably a decent chance, but details will be needed on the bike. If it is a simple permanent magnet and 3-phase stator coil system like the GS, yeah, it will work. However, I have seen some systems that had 5 wires, but completely different charging systems. There are also a few bikes out there with true alternators, like in your car. Not sure how many wires they have, but an SH775 will definitely NOT work with one of them.

.

 

[grcamna2]

Ok,
Thank you

 

[grcamna2]

Yes. Disconnected leads, no load, except for the meter. As Nessism hinted, this test isn't necessarily foolproof, but I have found more than one stator that had a dead leg by using this test. On the other side of the coin, I have also seen several that passed this test, but still would not charge the battery, even though the R/R tested good on another bike.



There is probably a decent chance, but details will be needed on the bike. If it is a simple permanent magnet and 3-phase stator coil system like the GS, yeah, it will work. However, I have seen some systems that had 5 wires, but completely different charging systems. There are also a few bikes out there with true alternators, like in your car. Not sure how many wires they have, but an SH775 will definitely NOT work with one of them.

.

Steve,
What bikes have you installed an SH775 onto ?
I also have a 1982' Honda XL185S on/off enduro which was originally 6vts. I converted the bike over to 12 vts by installing a cheap 12vt. 5-wire(3 yellow 1 red,1 black)reg/rect into it.That bike has the permanent magnet rotor and 3 phase stator coil(ac alternator)and being able to use 12 volt lights really helps.I had one burned stator so far..

 

[grcamna2]

The best and simplest connector is the Triumph charging harness.
This part number can be bought via any Triumph dealer.
http://www.2wheelpros.com/oem-parts/triumph-link-lead-regulator-t2500676-part.html

All you do is remove the bike ends and make the connections to your own harness. Join the two output brown wires together where they feed into the Suzuki loom.

Dave,
Would you say these plugs create a waterproof seal so rain won't enter these connections and corrode the terminals ?

 

[Steve]

I have a Triumph connector on my bike. It seals well. :encouragement:

.

 

[grcamna2]

I wouldn't bother performing a no-load stator test since the results may be inconclusive. Just hook up the SH775 per this diagram, make sure your battery is fully charged, and then check charging system voltage across the battery. If you get low output and hooked up the SH775 like shown then your stator is weak.

SH775 Install by nessism, on Flickr

Well,
I hooked up the SH775 and got the same readings.. I'm glad I have a spare stator, I'll be installing it soon.
I will need to find another spare stator for when I take long rides.

 

[Steve]

Once you get a good stator in there with the SH775, you likely will never need a spare (of either).

.

 

[Nessism]

Well,
I hooked up the SH775 and got the same readings.

Did you hook it up like shown in the diagram, bypassing the factory wiring and grounding direct to the battery? Is the battery fully charged? If not, the problem may be the wiring and/or the battery. There is also the chance the SH775 is defective, but that chance is pretty low.