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mickmie
Guest
Sometimes my bike gs500e, 1998 won't start, press starter button and nothing. Then a second later I press starter button and it's starts no issues. It also refuses to start if either side, main or full beam is on.
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Guest
Guest
Check the wiring from the starter button down. Had that issue and it was a loose connection in the wiring in the headlight bucket.
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mickmie
Guest
Will give that a try, have already dismantled the switch on the bar. Checked battery etc
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mickmie
Guest
Will have a look and make sure ground is good, only havethis bike a few weeks. Got rid of my virago as it was nothing but hassle. Will take a bit of time to find where all the parts are onthis new bike.
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mickmie
Guest
Is it possible to download manuals from the forum??
Sure..this Basscliff guy has lots - might not have the exact one...
http://members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff/
Assuming you do have to hold clutch to start: Next time when pushing the button doesnt engage the starter, try wiggling the clutch lever while still holding the button.
THe clutch interlock swtich (on bottom of clutch lever) may need to be adjusted (loosen screw and move around) or might need to be taken apart and cleaned, or replaced, or bypassed.
>>> later note
Oh, a 1998, I didnt realize it was that NEW.
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THe clutch interlock swtich (on bottom of clutch lever) may need to be adjusted (loosen screw and move around) or might need to be taken apart and cleaned, or replaced, or bypassed.
>>> later note
Oh, a 1998, I didnt realize it was that NEW.
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mickmie
Guest
Yeah it came in a lovely box with a very shiny wrapper.
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fixmybrokecomputer
Guest
Had the same issue with my GS1100GK. Last year I pulled the clutch lockout switch. It was just worn out. Replaced with one from my parts bike and all is good. Your bike does have a clutch switch on it. You can do as Steve suggested and just bypass it or buy another. Here is the switch on Ron Ayers website. Good luck!
https://www.ronayers.com/oemparts/p/suzuki/37560-38a00/switch-assy-clutch
https://www.ronayers.com/oemparts/p/suzuki/37560-38a00/switch-assy-clutch
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mickmie
Guest
Clutch switch had already been bypassed, checked the wiring in the headlight, specifically the wire from the handlebar controls. Also opened the handle bar switch and cleaned all the components, still none the wiser. Tried bike again and it still won't start with lights on. Starting to suspect the battery could be the issue.
Steve
GS Whisperer
To help verify that it's a battery issue, use jumper cables connected to your car, but make sure the car is NOT RUNNING.
Another way (that does not include the use of a car) is to simply use a voltmeter. Connect it to the battery, you should see just over 12.5 volts on a fully-charged battery. With the key ON (and before pushing the start button), you should see about 12 volts. When you push the start button, it would be really nice if the meter did not dip below 11 volts, but the bike might still start with voltage as low as 10 while starting.
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Another way (that does not include the use of a car) is to simply use a voltmeter. Connect it to the battery, you should see just over 12.5 volts on a fully-charged battery. With the key ON (and before pushing the start button), you should see about 12 volts. When you push the start button, it would be really nice if the meter did not dip below 11 volts, but the bike might still start with voltage as low as 10 while starting.
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Would think if battery was marginal or weak that the solenoid would still click, but you said when hit the starter button "nothing happens".
Other suspect would be the ground to the solenoid. But since it is a 98 model (17 years newer than mine GS) I will not make any specific comments.
One comment I have is that you are finding that it is difficult to troubleshoot an electrical problem with your eyeballs. You need a meter to determine where the starter circuit is still good and where you are loosing it.
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Steve
GS Whisperer
This is a GREAT example that illustrates the thought in Nessism's signature:
"To measure is to know."
When diagnosing things that you (usually) can't see, you need to use tools that turn it into something that you CAN see. Sometimes, just using a simple test light will tell you if you have power at a certain point. There are times it doesn't matter if it's 14 volts or 10 volts, as long as the light comes on, it's good. There are other times where the difference between 12.0 and 11.7 volts might be somewhat important. For those times, you need a meter that puts numbers in front of you.
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suziscrambler
Guest
Not to hijack the thread but I am having similar issues as OP, the only difference is my bike (Gs650E) will start with lights on and intermittently would cut out during a ride (feels like someone suddenly hit the kill switch ) and won't start the next second. My voltage readings are satisfactory as far as the Stator pages are concerned.
I suspect it could be a dirty connection in the switch housing? Every time I open it up and do a half job in blowing crud off and reassemble, it would start again no issues. Or should I get rewire the whole wiring to switch housing?
OP - have you had any updates ?
I suspect it could be a dirty connection in the switch housing? Every time I open it up and do a half job in blowing crud off and reassemble, it would start again no issues. Or should I get rewire the whole wiring to switch housing?
OP - have you had any updates ?
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mickmie
Guest
Have tried a multimeter just across the battery, as I had thought it may just be an issue with the battery. Battery was reading 12.1 without lights and 11.8 with them on. Charged battery after this and it still didn't remedy the issue. Given that the cable from the starter switch travels down the same line as the cable for the ligbts, I'm tempted tis trip back the cover and see if there is something touching. At least then I will know that I have ruled out any issues in the handlebar controls.
Steve
GS Whisperer
Maybe you should try doing a FULL job of blowing crud off? Clean, then apply dielectric grease to protect.
Any chance you have tried what I suggested in post #12? Connect jumper cables to a NON-RUNNING car,
What was the battery voltage after the charge? 12.1 volts without lights and 11.8 volts with lights are good indicators of a failing battery.
Is there any chance you have tried what was suggested in post #12? Use jumper cables to connect your bike to a NON-RUNNING car. This will at least determine if the problem is in the battery. If you still have problems, ditch the jumper cables and continue the search.
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mickmie
Guest
Have tried on a few occasions with my car battery, it doesn't make any difference. Gonna buy a new starter solenoid in the hope that that fixes the issue.
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mickmie
Guest
new starter solenoid make no difference, however the bike will start if I bridge the solenoid. Have took handlebar switch off again and have checked for continuity, so switch is definitely fine. should have also mentioned i get power on red side of solenoid and nothing on the other side.
Steve
GS Whisperer
Have not seen a "red side" of a solenoid before. Of the two large wires, one will connect directly to the battery, the other goes directly to the starter. Make sure the connections at both ends of both wires are clean and tight.
Assuming the "red side" is the battery side, the other terminal will only be live while pushing on the starter button and pulling the clutch lever, if you still have that "safety" switch enabled.
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Assuming the "red side" is the battery side, the other terminal will only be live while pushing on the starter button and pulling the clutch lever, if you still have that "safety" switch enabled.
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